running hotter than normal

[jmoore16]

Found the CCRM. Now Grounding #17?

Found the CCRM. It is underneath the air cleaner on the RH frame rail.

Now for grounding pin #17, do I cut the wire going into pin #17 of the CCRM? If so, then I ground the wire going into pin #17?

Much easier than the relays that everyone else suggests.

Let me know and thanks for the help.

 

[CManT1914]

Found the CCRM. It is underneath the air cleaner on the RH frame rail.

Now for grounding pin #17, do I cut the wire going into pin #17 of the CCRM? If so, then I ground the wire going into pin #17?

Much easier than the relays that everyone else suggests.

Let me know and thanks for the help.

DO NOT CUT THE WIRE!! Just splice into it, and run another wire to the accessory terminal of a switch. Then run a ground wire to the power terminal on the switch. (you can run a 12v power wire to the ground terminal if the switch lights up)

 

[jmoore16]

Thanks CManT1914

Got your message but was typing another reply. Let me think abou this and get back with you in a few minutes...

 

[94TURBO5 O]

Simple 2 prong rocker switch will do fine. Tap into the #17 wire and then run the other end to the toggle. Run another wire to a good ground and attach it to the 2nd prong on the switch and you're done.

 

[CManT1914]

Simple 2 prong rocker switch will do fine. Tap into the #17 wire and then run the other end to the toggle. Run another wire to a good ground and attach it to the 2nd prong on the switch and you're done.

I like mine to light up, otherwise I forget if they're on or off.

 

[jmoore16]

Ok, Fan is fixed. Did it work???

Sort of. The fan is on high speed all the time if the switch is on. I hid it in the engine compartment so nobody would mess with it by accident. Now for how it worked...

The stock (I know - Crap gage) gage will climb on initial startup with the engine idling until the needle gets to the L in NORMAL. It will drop down to mid A and then back up to L. I can drive it around and it will drop to N so it is really cooling off now if I am driving. Not at idle. I can sit and it climbs back to L and bounces between A and L.

I was thinking of changing the thermostat to a 160 (180 is installed right now but it acts like a 195!!!) when my wife pointed out the obvious - Maybe the engine isn't spinning the water pump fast enough at idle.

Where did she come up with that!!! Well, I hate to admit it but she may be right. :damnit: I increased the engine RPM from base idle (800 ish) to 2000 and the temp started to drop to the M and would have kept going but I went back to idle.

Could I have underdrive pulleys??? I didn't install them but the PO may have. How can I check???

John

 

[CManT1914]

I guess you could get another stock waterpump pulley and compare. Mine's at home, otherwise I'd get a pic for you. I might be able to get it sometime this weekend, but no promises since I'm gonna be real busy with my project. Do not switch out to a 160* t-stat, that is too cold. Get a real gauge, since the stock one is horribly inaccurate.

 

[jmoore16]

160 thermostat and pulley measurements

Instead of pictures, can you give me diameters of the crank pulley and waterpump pulley?

I will measure mine as soon as the rain stops. Cool - Lightning everywhere. I will never learn to come in out of the rain...

Why is a 160 thermostat too cold? This was the hot ticket on the A9L calibrations. Why won't it work for us? What will happen? I am running a 347 with Y heads and a TFS Street Heat intake. Also running '95 Cobra R Model calibration.

Once again - Thanks for your help today...

John

 

[jmoore16]

160 thermostat and pulley measurements

Instead of pictures, can you give me diameters of the crank pulley and waterpump pulley?

I will measure mine as soon as the rain stops. Cool - Lightning everywhere. I will never learn to come in out of the rain...

Why is a 160 thermostat too cold? This was the hot ticket on the A9L calibrations. Why won't it work for us? What will happen? I am running a 347 with Y heads and a TFS Street Heat intake. Also running '95 Cobra R Model calibration.

Once again - Thanks for your help today...

John

 

[CManT1914]

Well if I remember right, a 160* t-stat causes the cooling system to run in open loop or something. Here's a link with some good info, check out post #8 by RydeOn.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=474069&highlight=160+thermostat

You'll experience more engine wear the colder you go. Just stick with a 180* is my suggestion.

EDIT: I didn't know you were running a 347, but I don't see how that would make a difference. I will measure the diameter of my waterpump and crank pulley this afternoon when I pull the stang in the garage to start my project.

 

[jmoore16]

180 degree thermostat

Ok, you convinced me. I think I will go to a 180 degree thermostat since I think my rad is a little undersized for my setup.

 

[WhiteDevil]

Before throwing all these fixes at it i would get an aftermarket gauge and really see what its at. I had the same thing with my car last year a few months after i did my H/C/I. All of a sudden it went from running between the N and the O to being by the R a lot. I freaked out of course, though i had a coolant problem or a blown head gasket. The i got an autometer gauge, and of course im running right on around 180-190. Then i got my tweecer and i can check it there too and the coolant temp is fine, its that stock gauge that sucks and is in consistant.

 

[HISSIN50]

As you know, a 160*stat is not a fix of any sort. It is a bandaid type solution, which only prolongs the inevitable.

If someone is contemplating a 160, there are system inadequacies which need to be fixed instead.

Good luck.

 

[jmoore16]

Hissin - I agree...

I think my radiator is a tad bit undersized. I am running an '03 Cobra Radiator.

John

 

[HISSIN50]

John, if you are cooling fine once at speed, that suggests the radiator is rejecting heat just fine. Since you only run hotter at idle, that suggests an ancillary item is not quite up to par.

I can relate - my idle is at ~700 RPM and my volts/alternator output drop with accessories on. So I contribute the lowered alternator output (not spinning the fan quite as fast as it could) and the water pump not spinning quite fast enough, to what causes the car to idle slightly warm (If I am stationary and hold the throttle at 1K rpm, it actually cools better). This sounds sorta like what you mention, I think.

I have stock pullies too. Some of the fine folks on here told me about putting a 93 Cobra water pump pulley on the water pump (I still have not had a chance to research this). It reportedly overdrivers the pump a bit. Just what we need.

(FWIW, I live in the desert, where it is 108* today. So this stuff is important and I fine tune it often).

Doing the fan switch mod that Chris helped with should really help too (that may take care of all your worries). It is nice when the fan does not have to play 'catch up'.

Good luck.

 

[jmoore16]

Maybe...

I guess I kind of agree with you but it does suprise me. I would think that things would be overdriven from the start from the factory as it is on the safe side.

'93 Cobra water pump pulley? It would be smaller? I am on vacation and don't have to think...

Anyone try this?

John

 

[WhiteDevil]

Jmoore i was gonna ask you do you have a chip or anything, or is the fan coming on at the stock temps, because it doesnt come on low speed until 212 degrees or something like that. High speed not till 220 i think. Ill have to check my tweecer to make sure so when your not moving its gonna get that hot becaue the fans wont start to move the air until that temp.

 

[HISSIN50]

I guess I kind of agree with you but it does suprise me. I would think that things would be overdriven from the start from the factory as it is on the safe side.



John

Not necessarily. When everything was brand new, the stock set-up was sufficient. Toss on some miles and 10 years and things degrade, as does efficiency. Toss mods on top of that and all bets are off.

Just my perspective.