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Engine Running outa ideas

  • Thread starter Thread starter Aoneill5.0
  • Start date Start date Nov 14, 2022
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Mr.Blake

Member
Oct 20, 2022
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Earth
Nov 28, 2022
#41
  • Nov 28, 2022
  • #41
Mustang5L5 said:
Yeah, that's common. Don't read into it and just ignore it.
Click to expand...
That's good to hear. Just for giggles, you could check the capacitors in eec. Mine would do funny things like that sometimes but ran as good as it could pre-tune (93' A3M). I found one with corroded leg missing and other two leaking with corrosion at base. Have not tried pulling codes since QH install (caps replaced) With datalog, I can see all the sensor values anyhow. Update as you go.
 

Aoneill5.0

Member
Sep 30, 2022
48
5
18
EASTERN CANADA
Dec 1, 2022
#42
  • Dec 1, 2022
  • #42
Mr.Blake said:
That's good to hear. Just for giggles, you could check the capacitors in eec. Mine would do funny things like that sometimes but ran as good as it could pre-tune (93' A3M). I found one with corroded leg missing and other two leaking with corrosion at base. Have not tried pulling codes since QH install (caps replaced) With datalog, I can see all the sensor values anyhow. Update as you go.
Click to expand...


Hey
Decided to take a small break and fix a few other things,
The TPS seemed to solve my hot start no start

Car is working OK..

I was at the speedo tonight,
Was reading 20 Km High

Replaced 16 tooth Red with 19 tooth Gray from Ford.. now I have No Speedo.

I had to
Shave off a bit from the tit at the bottom as well as I think they gave me AUTO TRANS gears.
Still no luck..

The red one as you can see is quite different in shape..

I did by the way get a grey one to work for a couple miles and it was very close but it failed as I was comming home.

No gears chewed up

Thanks for the other suggestions

Remember this car may be an 88 with 89 Vin
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
5,832
3,964
183
Claremore, OK
Dec 1, 2022
#43
  • Dec 1, 2022
  • #43
They do not look the same physically. The distance between the gear and the slot that the c clip goes into on them is different. The red one has a larger area of no teeth where the grey one has almost no space between the c clip slot and the bottom of the teeth. May not mean much but I don't recall seeing teeth that far down on any of mine.
 
M

Mr.Blake

Member
Oct 20, 2022
12
1
13
Earth
Dec 1, 2022
#44
  • Dec 1, 2022
  • #44
The red one is for a manual and the grey one is for an automatic, those are not interchangeable. Check lmr.com they have charts for figuring out what you need. Double check what gears you have, rear gear ratio dictates which color you need,
(tooth count) also the are two different gears on the output shaft 7 and 8 teeth gears I believe. Pull sensor and shine light into hole make sure the teeth aren't stripped on it or that it is still locked in place. Just has a spring clip holding it to the output shaft and you may have damaged it by shoving the auto gear in place. It isn't very tough to change though if you did. Jack the back of the car up so all the trans fluid is towards the front and you would lose but a few drops.. four bolt on the drive shaft and four on the tail shaft cover. I don't remember there being a gasket, black RTV I believe. Might as well change the rear seal while the drive shaft is out. Cheap and easy and will most likely start leaking after you get it all back together..... if you don't. Made that stupid mistake once with a rear main seal after a clutch/flywheel change. Luckily drag radials made short work of the clutch disc and I got it on the next clutch swap. Nothing to it. You can also chuck up the speedo cable in a cordless drill and zip tie the trigger to make sure your cable is good. Just put some elect. tape around square end to protect it. Don't get crazy....
 
M

Mr.Blake

Member
Oct 20, 2022
12
1
13
Earth
Dec 1, 2022
#45
  • Dec 1, 2022
  • #45
Mr.Blake said:
The red one is for a manual and the grey one is for an automatic, those are not interchangeable. Check lmr.com they have charts for figuring out what you need. Double check what gears you have, rear gear ratio dictates which color you need,
(tooth count) also the are two different gears on the output shaft 7 and 8 teeth gears I believe. Pull sensor and shine light into hole make sure the teeth aren't stripped on it or that it is still locked in place. Just has a spring clip holding it to the output shaft and you may have damaged it by shoving the auto gear in place. It isn't very tough to change though if you did. Jack the back of the car up so all the trans fluid is towards the front and you would lose but a few drops.. four bolt on the drive shaft and four on the tail shaft cover. I don't remember there being a gasket, black RTV I believe. Might as well change the rear seal while the drive shaft is out. Cheap and easy and will most likely start leaking after you get it all back together..... if you don't. Made that stupid mistake once with a rear main seal after a clutch/flywheel change. Luckily drag radials made short work of the clutch disc and I got it on the next clutch swap. Nothing to it. You can also chuck up the speedo cable in a cordless drill and zip tie the trigger to make sure your cable is good. Just put some elect. tape around square end to protect it. Don't get crazy....
Click to expand...
Also note, tail shaft gear replacement is manual T5 only! Not serviceable on the automatic.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
5,832
3,964
183
Claremore, OK
Dec 1, 2022
#46
  • Dec 1, 2022
  • #46
If the gear on the tail shaft is a 7 tooth gear it will be yellow. If it is the 8 tooth gear it will be a translucent greenish yellow color. Best seen with a bright light source.
 
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