well guys i need some big help this time, i was cruising down the road the other night and i burnt a plug wire off but no big deal, 3 miles down the road i go to gas the car up and it was probably just about empty being it took almost 15 gallons of gas and ever since i filled it up aobut 2 miles later it doesnt run worth a **** and just misses and spits and sputters up through the rpms as if its running on about 5 cylinders and i dont really know what to change next....... i replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, module on the outside of the distributor, checked the timing.....any help at all would be appreciated thanks. by the way this is in a 91 5.0...
running really really bad
- Thread starter joe23O3
- Start date
Kdubslugga
Active Member
What is the timing at? What kind of fuel did you put in the car? Also have you messed with Tb or the throttle body posistion sensor? If the volts on the TPS are to high it shuts off the fuel injectors? That really doesnt sound like your problem though. I have gotten bad gas before, like 5 years ago in my truck, i just drained it, and put new gas in it and it worked. I guess start there, i know that sucks because you have 15 gallons in it.
when i had to get the water out of my 95 after the wife took it for a dip, i just got a cheap electric fuel pump off of my other car and put some long rubber hose on it, into the tank and filled up a few buckets full. after that i put some super gas into it and it cranked back up and ran a little funky for 10 minutes. i would do that before dropping the fuel tank. or maybe you can disconnect the feed fuel line and put it in a bucket while crossing the fuel pump relay and tricking the car into pumping the fuel out.
if you really ran it down that far, i would not discount that you could have sucked up some crud in the bottom of the tank. i might check your FP while driving to ensure that you have proper pressure.
any codes?
my two cents. good luck.
any codes?
my two cents. good luck.
I,m with Hissin, as that's what first popped in my head. Try changing your fuel filter again too, it can't hurt. If there was A LOT of crud, its slightly possible there was still a bunch of crap in the lines...try, carefully, to rip apart the filter you have on now to see if its all blocked up. It will cost you a new filter, but who knows. You can also try, carefully again, to have some one prime the pump with the filter off, and see what comes out with the gas. Direct it into a large jar or something. If the filter and fuel are crap-clean, then at least you will have ruled that out.
Also, don't take this the wrong way, but did you gas up with diesel? Sometimes the nozzle does fit...
Also, don't take this the wrong way, but did you gas up with diesel? Sometimes the nozzle does fit...
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
well guys i gassed it up with sunoco 93 which i have foudn the best in my area for performance and mileage....yesterday i changed the pickup in the distributor which i found some wires almost bare but that didnt change the situation. i have a fuel pressure gauge coming today so i'll be able to check that while its running. what are some good numbers... aroudn 40? my timing is at an ungodly high number right now.... i have a set of roush 200 heasd and a tricklow intake and comp cams xe270 grind in it and while playing with the timing anything under 20 was a dog so i've been checking the timing and leaving it go where it has worked best before. is it possible a few injectores arent firing? thansk for all the help
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