Running rich, bad fuel injectors?

DW5.0L said:

Its still 13 at vacuum and only 23 at WOT. Blocked off EGR to see if that would help and it was the same readings.

Not sure what direction to go in now.

Click to expand...

I'm confused...
Do you have 13" at idle and 23" at wot? How are you checking for wot vac?

Wot should be 0", or very close to it.

How are you checking for vac leaks?

jason

Jason's right - something's wrong with your gauge.

The compression numbers look wonderful.

Good luck.

In regard to vac readings, your WOT reading should be almost zero. Your idle setting should be near as high as it ever gets (sans unusual situations like decelerating from higher RPM's while still in gear, where the throttle is closed but the engine is pumping like crazy).

I would want to nail that down for my own edification, even if it doesnt help fix the issue.

Good luck.

If you have oil on the spark plugs when you pull them out your rockers might be improperly loaded (tightening sequence) or the valve guides are gone as 90mustanggt said. I thought black smoke was rich, blue smoke was oil and white smoke is lean. Also, when do you get the black smoke? under WOT or when you let off to shift, is it while at idle?

Would a good or upgraded set of injectors add much hp over the stock injectors, when internal motor and other head and exhaust raleated upgrades are already installed?

Have any pictures of the plugs. To me it sounds like your injectors are staying open to long. What pressure are you getting with the vacum line off.? Do you have an aftermarket chip installed or tuning done? What plugs do you have? maybe they're tp cold of a range. Just thoughts. I would let the rings set in for the break in period then see how things are. Only 20 miles isn't enough for them to set in. I know that oil is blue smoke and you said it was black. If you don't want to wait take it to get tuned or play with the timing to see what it likes. Seems to me that if black soot is building up on the plugs it would be a spark issue. Not burning the fuel or a restriction of the exhuast. Which could be from improperly tightening of the rockers.

You said the motor was rebuilt, did that include the cylinder heads? Just trying to narrow down the list. Have you asked the engine builder to look at it? If the heads were untouched and the only thing that was worked on is the short block. I would suspect the short block to be the issue, as that is the only part that has been worked on.

Have you checked the pvc/baffle. Maybe, there is a vacum leak there or a cracked intake. Dumb question, but, what would happen if the MAF was facing the wrong direction? ( I've always wondered that)

I don't think the MAF is that easily reversed - different size inlet versus outlet. Well, on mine it is, anyway...

This all sounds a lot like what's going on with my car. I'm getting the same rich condition, though not quite as severe as yours - just chewing up my gas mileage a bit, throwing rich codes, and backfiring between the WOT 1-2 or 2-3 shift with a puff of grayish smoke. Subscribing...

From the code you got, it seems that the O2 sensors are not working like they should. The 43 code says they are not switching and providing signal to the computer.

There's the text on how to measure the output voltage to check their operation.

The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.

When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.

Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote

Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter.

Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer.

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

So, all that smoke was from a disconnected MAP sensor? ... or a cumulative thing combined with a dirty EGR, IAC, and old TFI module?

Unpluged map was definately the issue regarding the vac readings...plus look at all the nice new parts you've now added, they were likely tired anyway.
Too often we end up throwing money at the problems looking for an easy fix...been guilty of that myself.