Running Rich, HELPPPP!!!

There is so little technical detail in your post that it is very difficult to give you any advice. It sounds like you have very little mechanical backgound and bought someone's unfinished project car because he talked a good sales pitch.

What year make and model is the car? You didn't say: you could be driving a Chevvy for all we know.
What cubic inch size engine?
What kind of computer - Speed Density or Mass Air? Does the computer have any kind of aftermarket or custom chip?
What cylinder heads, intake manifold, cam, cold air kit?
What MAF if Mass Air? Is the MAF calibrated for use with the injectors?

1.) MAF calibration must match injector size. Check to see that MAF sensor and MAF body are compatible. Check sticker or manufacturer's part number on MAF against their website to make sure it does. If it is a C&L MAF, check sample tube size and color.

2.) Check fuel pressure at idle
Check fuel pressure:
The local auto parts store may rent or loan a fuel pressure test gauge if you don't have one.
Disconnect vacuum line and check it for evidence of fuel present on the line. If you find fuel, the fuel pressure regulator has failed. Cap the vacuum line and stow it out of the way.
Connect fuel pressure test gauge to Schrader port located just behind the alternator.
Turn the ignition switch on & start the engine. Observe the pressure : you should see 37-41 PSI at idle.
Turn the ignition off, reconnect the vacuum line and disconnect the fuel pressure test gauge. Watch out for squirting gas when you do this.

3.) Dump the codes to find sensors that may be out of spec and causing problems. Codes may be present even if the check Engine Light isn't on.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

MikeH686 said:

Fuel pressure gauge is that the same as any 1/4" fluid gauge?

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As long as it says PSI it is the same.

There is only one schrader valve on the fuel system. It is the high pressure supply line that feeds the injectors. That is where you connect the fuel pressure test gauge.

MikeH686 said:

Oh ok I already have a gauge there .. I must've mis read it thinking it was behind the altenator but this one is on the fuel rail feeding the injectors ... took the vaccum line off and it jumped up to 40 psi ... put vac line back on and it dropped back to around 30-32psi

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Thats exactly what it should do.

LMFAOOOOOO!!!!