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Running super super rich

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jacob5.0
  • Start date Start date Apr 25, 2010
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J

Jacob5.0

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Apr 25, 2010
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South East Georgia
Apr 25, 2010
#1
  • Apr 25, 2010
  • #1
Hi all. i am new to the site, and i have looked through all the threads on running rich but none of them seemed to fit with my prob. i have newly built 302 .040 over, balanced crank, hyperpuleptic pistons, windsor sr. heads, x303 cam, 1.6 crane roller rockers, gt40 intake (ford explorer), 24# injectors, mass air conversion, and i am probably forgetting some stuff. i just built this engine myself and got it in and running but it is running so rich that it is fouling the plugs in like 10 min. i have been trying to figure this thing out and i am just getting nowhere and getting really pissed. what i have found out so far: no vacuum leak, ect sensor seems to be good, timing is right about 14 degrees, no backfire, and so on. but i cannot seem to get the tps right, and the vacuum is wierd cause i seem to get more with a little throttle. i have vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator. if you can PLEASE HELP! i am going nuts. Thank You in andvance.
 
J

Jacob5.0

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
16
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South East Georgia
Apr 25, 2010
#2
  • Apr 25, 2010
  • #2
Nothing?
 

88-378

Member
Aug 10, 2007
14
2
16
Alpharetta, GA
Apr 25, 2010
#3
  • Apr 25, 2010
  • #3
Fuel pressure should be at 39 with vac line off.
 

Kdubslugga

Active Member
Jun 7, 2003
1,515
3
38
Akron, OH
Apr 25, 2010
#4
  • Apr 25, 2010
  • #4
its normal for vacuum to increase under light load, it should drop to 0 under WOT though, are there any codes in the computer, just because the light isnt on doesnt mean there isnt a code somewhere. Also, are your plugs soaked in gas or are they just covered in like black soot stuff??
 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
4,392
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Indiana
Apr 25, 2010
#5
  • Apr 25, 2010
  • #5
Jacob5.0 said:
hyperpuleptic pistons
Click to expand...

i think i found the problem, you're supposed to you the pulp free pistons!
 
J

Jacob5.0

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
16
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South East Georgia
Apr 25, 2010
#6
  • Apr 25, 2010
  • #6
the plugs are covered in black soot... i clean them real well with some carb cleaner and they will go again for a little while. I havent pulled any codes yet i will try to do that tomorrow. but the weird thing is, is that i cant get the TPS right. would this cause it? i dont know if it is faulty or if i have a bad ground somewhere.
 
5

5.0W/5.0

Member
Feb 12, 2010
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Carson Valley, NV
Apr 25, 2010
#7
  • Apr 25, 2010
  • #7
tannerc91gt said:
i think i found the problem, you're supposed to you the pulp free pistons!
Click to expand...

LOL...I saw that too!
 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
4,392
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Indiana
Apr 25, 2010
#8
  • Apr 25, 2010
  • #8
you still havent said what your FP is even at? do you have an adjustable regulator?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Apr 26, 2010
#9
  • Apr 26, 2010
  • #9
Any codes?
Does the EEC know you have 24's (either a calibrated MAF, self-tuning, or a Cobra EEC)?
 
J

Jacob5.0

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
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South East Georgia
Apr 26, 2010
#10
  • Apr 26, 2010
  • #10
im going to pull the codes today. stock regulator, stock mass air, and A9P computer. i have not got a tune yet i was trying to figure this out first. i know i need to upgrade the mass air and i expected it to run a bit rich, just not like this.
 
J

Jacob5.0

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
16
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South East Georgia
Apr 26, 2010
#11
  • Apr 26, 2010
  • #11
sorry about the mispelling of hyperelliptic pistons i guess i should have gotten the right spelling. i ran the codes and there were ALOT of them. so here it goes:

51- ECT sensor out of range indicated/circuit open
22- MAP or BARO sensor out of range
53- fuel inj. pump lever sensor input is greater than self test
53- TPS above maximum voltage
54- Intake air charge sensor circuit open; vane air flow sensor out of range
31- EVP or PFE circuit below min. voltage
67- clutch switch circuit failure
67- neutral drive switch circuit failure/open
67- A/C input high
81- air diverter solenoid fault, intake air control circuit fault/air inj. diverter
82- air diverter solenoid circuit fault or supercharger bypass circuit fault
82- Intergrated relay control module
85- canister purge solenoid circuit failure
85- adaptive fuel limit reached lean
85- shift solenoid 3/4-4/3
84- EGR vacuum regulator circuit failer

definitions straight out of the book... i have deleted the egr and the canister purge so that should eleminate some, i guess now which ones would be causing it to run rich, i will do reseach of my own to help find out. help is welcome also. thanks
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Apr 26, 2010
#12
  • Apr 26, 2010
  • #12
No biggie about the hypereutectic pistons. Most folks don't care how you spell stuff on here as long as you try.

Was the car up to temperature when you pulled codes? If not, that can generate an ECT code.

I would use a DMM to see what the TPS is showing at rest.
 
J

Jacob5.0

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
16
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South East Georgia
Apr 26, 2010
#13
  • Apr 26, 2010
  • #13
no it was cold, i wanted to pull the codes before i ran it and fouled the plugs again, i guess what is next is do a running hot test. and see what i pull then. if i am getting a temp reading does that mean my ECT is good? thats what i figured. any help on these codes would be great, thanks.
 
J

Jacob5.0

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
16
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South East Georgia
Apr 26, 2010
#14
  • Apr 26, 2010
  • #14
and also i have tried to set the tps... i know it is pretty straight forward and i have done it before, but i cannot seem to get it to work at all, even if i some how get it to .9 i push the throttle and it does not go up like it should. it stays the same. it stays at like 4.5 and does not move. i will wiggle the damn thing and no change. bad ground? bad TPS? even though it is new.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Apr 27, 2010
#15
  • Apr 27, 2010
  • #15
Disconnect the TPS electrical connector and test each wire.

If ok, put your old TPS on or try a spare (or do continuity testing on this one).

If your TPS is sending a signal that large, the car would run like poop. Be sure you're testing the proper wire (and not the 5V power source to the sensor).
 
J

Jacob5.0

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
16
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South East Georgia
Apr 27, 2010
#16
  • Apr 27, 2010
  • #16
I talked with a guy that i work with and he said i need a thermostat in there and that it is staying at closed loop... i know i do not have one in there. so i guess what i am asking is would that cause some of these problem codes?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Apr 27, 2010
#17
  • Apr 27, 2010
  • #17
I think you meant open loop.

The O2's are what control open and closed loop. Not the T-stat.

Install a quality t-stat anyways.
 
J

Jacob5.0

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
16
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0
South East Georgia
Apr 27, 2010
#18
  • Apr 27, 2010
  • #18
i will pick one up tomorrow
 
J

Jacob5.0

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
16
0
0
South East Georgia
Apr 27, 2010
#19
  • Apr 27, 2010
  • #19
i checked the wires going into the tps plug and got -2.4 on the green to black and .6 on the orange to black. i thought it should be .9 and 5.
 
J

Jacob5.0

New Member
Apr 25, 2010
16
0
0
South East Georgia
Apr 27, 2010
#20
  • Apr 27, 2010
  • #20
OK! finally making some headway... i had a bad ground on the TPS so I can take care of that. now that being said would a ground be causing the other trouble codes?
 
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