Running the summit battery relocation kit

[Busted07]

I will have the stock alternator (converted from efi to carb) and am hoping that it will run everything fine, but my question is, i bought the summit relocation kit, a switch and stuff, but a friend of mine says that i need alot bigger cable than the kit that summit sells to move my battery. is there any truth to that? i wont have high powered audio, or anything besides the lights, gauges and stuff.

 

[mbsprinks281]

Two things. The summit battery kit will not get you through tech at the track. Also, I used 1 gauge welding cable, its cheaper than battery cable and alot more flexible. I would give some serious thought about running a fused line to the alternator. Look here. http://buffhomer.corral.net/custom.html

 

[luckythirteen13]

the summit relocation kit has wires that are way to small. you need 2 gauge minimum. going to a welding supply place and its pretty cheap. also, if you plan to take the car to the track, the summit relocation kit wont pass if you have a hatch back

 

[jrichker]

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars

 

[Busted07]

Well, ya know, thats pretty frustraing that summit doesnt say anything about it not being track legal. ill see what i can do about getting the welding cable, and following your advice, thanks again!

 

[Busted07]

Also, can i use the same welding cable for the positive wire to the soilenoid and starter or will that be overkill. i figure it would be cheaper if i bought it in one giant chunk.

 

[luckythirteen13]

use the same 2gauge or larger cable for EVERYTHING. the wire from the battery to the ground, the wire from the battery to the starter, the kill switch and even the wire coming from the alt to the battery

 

[Busted07]

Awesome, i appreciate the info!

 

[jrichker]

For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10
gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang
wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when
the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40'
of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies power
to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn the
Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) &
Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-90 wiring and lots more…

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss and Stang&2birds.

 

[Busted07]

That is some awesome information, but my application will be different being that i have no fuel injection anymore. I think it will be a much simplier route, but the information is awesome noneteless!