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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Running warm when driving

  • Thread starter Thread starter 93notchback
  • Start date Start date Sep 17, 2008

93notchback

Member
Apr 5, 2005
39
0
6
Soperton, GA
Sep 17, 2008
#1
  • Sep 17, 2008
  • #1
88 gt temp starts to climb the further i drive it. Have a sunpro gauge on it, will climb to 220 or above if driven 40 to 50 miles. Has a new 3 row copper radiatior from mustangs unlimited, Proform electric fan for 5.0, lower hose has a spring in it ,reman pump from advance, . I believe it has a 160 thermostat, could this be my problem. The air dam is in place uder the car. If i sit and let it idle it will cool back down some, so i believe it is a flow problem somewhere. Thanks for any help
 

putnam88

Member
Aug 2, 2006
102
0
17
tavares
Sep 17, 2008
#2
  • Sep 17, 2008
  • #2
i would say ur thermostat is two low ur car should run at 190 give or take 10 degrees when u get up to higher speeds in return ur engine is running hotter there for if u have a 160 it will stick open and closed at the time even though u have a high flow radiator it can kill ur temp by not giving time to cool cause its taking in coolant and then right back out also ur cap psi rating my be to high just some thoughts
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Sep 18, 2008
#3
  • Sep 18, 2008
  • #3
More heat rejection is needed at speed than while idling.

Be sure the radiator is sealed around its perimeter. This includes between the condenser and radiator.
Be sure the condenser and radiator are free of debris (leaves, garbage bags, etc sometimes stick to the front of the coils).

It is possible that the t-stat is defective. Higher RPM driving can allow the pellet to be damaged in unbalanced t-stats (in balanced stats, the pellet is shrouded).

The cooling system is a closed system, and one with inherant restrictions to flow. I don't know that a swap to a 180 t-stat would change anything, other than phase-shift your ultimate operating temp. In the summer here (So. Arizona), stats are often running at WOT (so to speak. The car operates well above the stat rating, so the stat never closes once up to temp). The closed nature of the system and restrictions allow the system to function properly.

I would seal around the coils and swap t-stats (just to try to be sure your have a fully functional one).

Good luck
 

93notchback

Member
Apr 5, 2005
39
0
6
Soperton, GA
Sep 19, 2008
#4
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #4
The rubber seals are in place at both ends of the radiator and condensor (assuming these direct air into the front of the two) Going to try another thermostat today. Any new ideas if this doesn't work? cracked head? head gasket? Bad water pump?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Sep 19, 2008
#5
  • Sep 19, 2008
  • #5
If you suspect a leak in the system, put a cooling system pressure tester on and see if it holds steady for an extended period.

Does the amount of load while at speed make any difference? If not, and a light load causes it to run as hot as a heavy load, the issue is probably something ancillary.
 

93notchback

Member
Apr 5, 2005
39
0
6
Soperton, GA
Sep 22, 2008
#6
  • Sep 22, 2008
  • #6
no leak. I believe the problem may be a lean condition. The car has been converted to MAF from speed density using the harness from granettelli. I pulled the ECM out and it doesn't match any of the part numbers they list on there online instructions. It will backfire through the intake and misfire when it starting getting hot (past 210) then shut off. Let it sit for a few and cool and it is ok till it heats up again. I believe it is lean and i need to put the right number computer in it. ???
 
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