Runs poor when cold, what gives?

[zeno22]

Hello,
I just recently put in a new motor, sig has the details, but I also did the mass air conversion on my 86 notch. WHen I fire it up when it is cold it really idles low and surges bad, but once it warms up it seems to be better, not perfect but better. I checked all of the vacuum hoses and they are all tight and new now. One thing I did add was a C&L 73mm mass air sensor, the number on the sensor itself is F4SF-12579-AA not sure if that matters. The Emissions stuff has all been removed. I have cleaned the throttle body, IAC, and put a new TPS on the car. New plugs and wires. When running it really smells like gas. I do not have a adjustable fuel pressure reg. or a bigger than stock fuel pump yet. I have driven it on the street and it runs fine, very strong actually. All the plugs seem to be burning fine. I have sprayed carb cleaner around the intake and it doesn't upset the idle. I am lost.
HELP! The car only has 2 miles on it since the conversion.

 

[zeno22]

anyone?

 

[wyominghotwheel]

How old is your pvc...........? if that is okay, then look at resetting your throttle body linkage and tps voltage.........take a .010 feeler gauge and set it till it is snug where your linkage is under the throttle body.....do this with the engine off........then, key on engine off, stick a needle in the green wire and black wire of your tps.....take a volt meter and make sure it is at .096........if you have to make an adjustment there on the tps, be sure to check your throttle linkage position again.......once you get the .010 at the linkage and your voltage on the tps at .096, it should run smooth...........later man,

hotwheels of insanemustangs.com

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.