Russell hose fittings

[67GTA-FB429]

I am trying to replace some braided fuel line in my car. I need some advice on how to get Russell Full Flow hose fitting onto the hose. Everytime I thiink I have it setup correctly, and insert the threaded nipple, the hose pushes out of the fitting.

Any advice for this??

 

[1969mach1351]

I've used Earls and Aeroquip and am assuming Russell is about the same. Earls says to put on the "socket" on the hose until there is about a 1/16-1/8 between the end of the hose and the threads and mark the hose with a pen to see if it slides out (I put it right against the threads because it slides out), lube EVERYTHING with oil, place the nipple in a vise (or your hand like I do), holding the HOSE push it on to the nipple until the nipple can be threaded into the socket. Once started by hand tighten to .023-.046 between the socket and nipple. The first time (Aeroquip) I did this it took about an hour to do two ends for a fuel line. My tranny lines (Earls) only took a few minutes.

 

[67GTA-FB429]

Did you keep the hose flush with the steel braid? I had better luck by having the hose back about 1/8 inch. Where I keep running into problems is the second step...insterting the stoopid nipple.

Thanks for the help.

 

[1969mach1351]

Yea, I keep the hose flush with the steel braid.

 

[blandq]

1. Wrap the end VERY tight 2-3 times around with electrical tape.
2. Take a dremel tool with a die-grinder composite wheel (mini chop-saw)
- this makes a very clean, no frey edge.
3. Push the hose to the bottom of where the threads begin inside the hose sleeve.
- Once just inside turn it as if you are screwing it on.
- leave excess tape on braided lines as a visual reference
- ensure no SS wires interfere with threads or inside of hose.
4. Place HOSE in the vise very close to Hose sleeve.
5. Oil the male end the pushes into the hose
6. BY HAND get the connector started in the threads.
- the force of pushing into the hose is working aginst the vise = no slip
7. Once started get the 11/16 and 3/4 wrenhes and tighten up to their specs.

It takes me longer to tape and cut than it does to actually build the fitting. In addition, I think -6 or -8s are easier than -4 or -3. (Same material, smaller hole...same size hands

For me the critical part is getting a smooth, straight and SS hairless hose end to start the process. After a couple different trys I found the dremel to be the easiest, best and cheapest tool for the job.

 

[67GTA-FB429]

I need to get a better saw. My hack saw is leaving to many frayed ends that I am cutting with dikes.