Instead of the rust encapsulators mentioned in the other posts, which only seal off oxygen from the metal (this encludes Por 15), I would suggest a rust converter. A product which body shops use is Mar-hyde's rust converter. Marhyde's product does not need to be top coated as Eastwoods encapsulator and Por 15 does, or SEMs converter do. The advantage to this converter is it will also eliminate the rust in the pits of the metal. After the application, then follow up with an epoxy primer for extra insurance and protection from the elements until you get the car refinished. This product is sold at automotive paint supply houses, possibly even PEP BOYS. It is also recommended over SEM's rust converter, which also requires topcoating.
17 years ago, I built a 66 which had a vinyl roof which went bad. The surface rust was so bad (with many deep pits) that extensive applications of Metal Prep (acid based) and naval jellly were applied alternating with a wire cup brush on a grinder to remove all the rust. This was before the converters were available. My daughter still has the car and the rust has never returned. I would recommend the Mar-hyde product now. Get it now (the rust) before it gets worse. By the way, I do use all the products mentioned here myself and I believe the converter does the best job. If you don't kill lthe rust off now it will only get worse.
We are currently rebuildling my son's 65 (AdamInChains) and when the body shop replaced the rear quarter panel, they used the Mar-hyde product in all the closed areas.