Rust on hood

Alot of sanding and then a couple coats of quality self-etching primer should do the job.

I'd just use sandpaper.

sanding is not going to get down into the pits very well...but around the window you are kind of limited.best to remove trim. i would use a wire wheel to get it down to white metal (if you leave any red showing, the rust will come back) then do it up with etch primer, you should be good. btw, a wire wheel on a cordless drill won't get it, you really need to spin some rpms... a 4 1/2 grinder with a cup wheel will become your best friend if you have a lot of rust work to do!

Since you're looking for a temporary solution, I would wire wheel it down to bare metal as much as you can, then use Eastwood's rust converter for the stuff you can't get off, and rust encapsulator to protect it.

Navel Jelly and steel wool along with some elbow grease will get all of the rust off so that you can coat it with something.

Instead of the rust encapsulators mentioned in the other posts, which only seal off oxygen from the metal (this encludes Por 15), I would suggest a rust converter. A product which body shops use is Mar-hyde's rust converter. Marhyde's product does not need to be top coated as Eastwoods encapsulator and Por 15 does, or SEMs converter do. The advantage to this converter is it will also eliminate the rust in the pits of the metal. After the application, then follow up with an epoxy primer for extra insurance and protection from the elements until you get the car refinished. This product is sold at automotive paint supply houses, possibly even PEP BOYS. It is also recommended over SEM's rust converter, which also requires topcoating.

17 years ago, I built a 66 which had a vinyl roof which went bad. The surface rust was so bad (with many deep pits) that extensive applications of Metal Prep (acid based) and naval jellly were applied alternating with a wire cup brush on a grinder to remove all the rust. This was before the converters were available. My daughter still has the car and the rust has never returned. I would recommend the Mar-hyde product now. Get it now (the rust) before it gets worse. By the way, I do use all the products mentioned here myself and I believe the converter does the best job. If you don't kill lthe rust off now it will only get worse.
We are currently rebuildling my son's 65 (AdamInChains) and when the body shop replaced the rear quarter panel, they used the Mar-hyde product in all the closed areas.