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School me in the ways of ring and pinion setup

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chern_889
  • Start date Start date Mar 1, 2009

Chern_889

New Member
Oct 22, 2006
86
0
0
Lumsden, Saskatchewan
Mar 1, 2009
#1
  • Mar 1, 2009
  • #1
So im planning on overhauling the entire rear end of my 94, and in the process i want to switch from current 3.73s to 3.55s. I want to tackle the ring and pinion setup myself, as i hate paying people to do something i can.
Ive read through a few tech articles on how to do it, but want to read more. Post up any tips, dos, donts, and any articles you have on setting up pinion depth, and backlash.
Also, ive seen tools that you can buy to measure pinion depth, instead of using the ol' trial and error method, does anyone have any expierence with how these work, and how close you can get it on the first try?
The current setup has so much slop in it im afraid to even drive the car, and vibrates so bad on decel, it shakes the shifter to the point of jumping out of gear(only happend once). So i dont really have a good starting point.

Thanks, Jay
 

93 LX

Founding Member
Jun 2, 2000
3,081
3
0
Norwalk, CA.
Mar 1, 2009
#2
  • Mar 1, 2009
  • #2
Ring & Pinion Installation Instructions
 

bubba-dough

Active Member
Dec 28, 2004
1,044
2
38
Indiana
Mar 2, 2009
#3
  • Mar 2, 2009
  • #3
There was a link to a really good write -up the other day on here. Just take your time. Set aside probably 2 days to get it right. You may have to do it a few times to get it right. Good-luck man.

Make sure to rebuild the Trac-Lok while your in there.
 

axeman

Founding Member
Feb 9, 2001
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36
Elizabethtown, PA
Mar 2, 2009
#4
  • Mar 2, 2009
  • #4
It's been a few years since I've done any, but here's a few things that come to mind:

The corral has a good article.
8.8" Gear Installation

It's been quite a while but, Randy's Ring and Pinion always seemed like a helpful source.
Randy's Ring & Pinion


Not sure what differential you plan on running, but I see you are upgrading to 31 spline. If you haven't decided yet, the ones out of Bronco's and Explorer's work really well. Not really sure what years though, probably just not the newer ones.

Repacking a T-lock using the alternating method has worked well for me for at the track. Factory setup is shim, friction, steel, steel, friction, steel, steel, friction, side gear. The alternating method is shim, friction, steel, friction, steel, friction, steel, friction, side gear. If you decide to use the alternating method, you can use a few of the friction plates from your current T-lock if they are in good shape.

It takes quite alot to compress the crush sleeve. You'll think that it's just not working, but you just need to muscle it a little bitmore. I always used my legs, as I do not have air tools. Once it begins to crush, you need to check the bearing preload, and often, because if you go to far, you'll need to start over.

Check the wear pattern before you're done. If it's not correct, shim the carrier to the correct side. You'll need to check the backlash after any changes.
 

Chern_889

New Member
Oct 22, 2006
86
0
0
Lumsden, Saskatchewan
Mar 2, 2009
#5
  • Mar 2, 2009
  • #5
axeman said:
It's been a few years since I've done any, but here's a few things that come to mind:

The corral has a good article.
8.8" Gear Installation

It's been quite a while but, Randy's Ring and Pinion always seemed like a helpful source.
Randy's Ring & Pinion


Not sure what differential you plan on running, but I see you are upgrading to 31 spline. If you haven't decided yet, the ones out of Bronco's and Explorer's work really well. Not really sure what years though, probably just not the newer ones.

Repacking a T-lock using the alternating method has worked well for me for at the track. Factory setup is shim, friction, steel, steel, friction, steel, steel, friction, side gear. The alternating method is shim, friction, steel, friction, steel, friction, steel, friction, side gear. If you decide to use the alternating method, you can use a few of the friction plates from your current T-lock if they are in good shape.

It takes quite alot to compress the crush sleeve. You'll think that it's just not working, but you just need to muscle it a little bitmore. I always used my legs, as I do not have air tools. Once it begins to crush, you need to check the bearing preload, and often, because if you go to far, you'll need to start over.

Check the wear pattern before you're done. If it's not correct, shim the carrier to the correct side. You'll need to check the backlash after any changes.
Click to expand...


I plan to buy a new ford racing 31 spline carrier, as the current unit is pretty worn, and gives some pretty nice one wheel peelers, and thanks for the help so far, anyone else?
 
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