school me on cutting springs...

iskwezm · Sep 11, 2007

CraigMBA said:
Put a 3/4" spacer between the shock and the shock mount and limit the downtravel.

I havent doent that yet and it rode really good with thIAS shocks, but i'll do it soon

RogerC62 · Sep 11, 2007

There's a similar thread over on teamZX2.com and its amazing how different the opinions are on this subject. I check in over there on occasion as my daily driver is a 2000 ZX2. The mentality over there is its a sin to cut coils. They're more of a "tuner" crowd there. I have no problem with doing it and mine are cut to drop the front slightly more. If I keep the GW front suspension I need to make spacers for the shock mounting to get my shock travel back. I've actually created a taller shock mount design but I've lost the file and can't find the only paper copy I printed out. I guess I'll have to re-create it.

bnickel · Sep 11, 2007

RacerX said:
There's a similar thread over on teamZX2.com and its amazing how different the opinions are on this subject. I check in over there on occasion as my daily driver is a 2000 ZX2. The mentality over there is its a sin to cut coils. They're more of a "tuner" crowd there. I have no problem with doing it and mine are cut to drop the front slightly more. If I keep the GW front suspension I need to make spacers for the shock mounting to get my shock travel back. I've actually created a taller shock mount design but I've lost the file and can't find the only paper copy I printed out. I guess I'll have to re-create it.

opentracker has a modified stock upper shock mount that is taller. the way he does it is interesting, he sections the mount and adds metal in but it's not a straight cut all the way across as one would/might think.

http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/

bnickel · Sep 11, 2007

brianj5600 said:
I like when people think they know better than Herb Adams, he has quite a resume'

not saying i know more, just that i've had a different experience that's all. my experience has led me to feel that cutting springs with a torch isn't the right way to do it, at least for me.

Z06killinSBF · Sep 11, 2007

I think the "Rule of Thumb" for these style springs is 1 coil = 2"

ratio411 · Sep 11, 2007

bnickel said:
an abrasive wheel is quicker but a sawzall will work just fine.

The car in my avitar...
I cut the springs on that.
They must have been special metal or something, because a hack saw or a sawzall wouldn't even scratch the metal!
I heard folks on the F body boards that had the same issues when chopping.
The dremel had the same issue.

4 1/2 and 6 inch grinders would get the job done, but at the cost of burning up many discs.

Luckily, I went straight to the 14" chop saw when the hacksaw and sawzall failed.

I guess it may be the difference between 35 yo springs and 2 yo springs.
Or modern metalurgy and classic metalurgy.

CraigMBA · Sep 11, 2007

iskwezm said:
I havent doent that yet and it rode really good with thIAS shocks, but i'll do it soon

It won't change the ride at all. It will make your car launch a little different because you're going to take (whatever the spacer winds up being)" of downtravel out.

On a really sticky track less downtravel is better.

When grip sucks, a little more travel can be a plus.

Either way, you won't miss it.

Hack · Sep 11, 2007

Just cut the darn things. I used my 4 1/2" angle grinder with a (thin) cut off wheel and it took less than a minute to cut both. Dribble water on it? What a waste of time!

I wouldn't normally cut with a torch, but if that's all you have I don't see it as a big deal. If the temper is affected it will just sit a tad lower. If you use the same method to cut both the temper should be affected roughly the same amount.

Just cut a little at a time and drive the car after reinstalling to make sure it settles completely. Otherwise you'll end up with the car lower than you want.

CraigMBA · Sep 11, 2007

We are forgetting that at least half the spring sits on the spring saddle either way and it's temper doesn't matter. If you only go back 6" of wire and untemper it, the rest of the spring will never know.

ForceFed70 · Sep 11, 2007

I used a 4.5" angle grinder with cutoff disc to cut my springs. Cut quickly with no issues... didn't even look like it wore down the disc much.

14" abrasive saw and angle grinder with a cutting wheel is pretty much the same thing. The discs are made of the same materials, although the 14" is slightly thicker.

I had an old-school welder repair a leaf spring for me in my teenage years (I couldn't afford gas much less new springs). He was able to weld the spring without problem... he said the key was to cool the metal faster than in free air, but slower than in water. So he poured used moter oil over the spring immedaitely after welding.

Everyone said "It'll never work, you've ruined the temper of the spring" etc.. But truth be told I beat on that car for 5 more years before selling it... never had another problem.

ratio411 · Sep 12, 2007

BottleFed70 said:
14" abrasive saw and angle grinder with a cutting wheel is pretty much the same thing.

4.5" electric grinder vs 16" 8 hp 2 stroke cut off saw (fitted with 14" abrasive blade)

Not quite the same...
View attachment 363369

zookeeper · Sep 13, 2007

Isn't that for cutting mansonry and concrete? Heck, why not use a chainsaw?

mikethebike · Sep 13, 2007

wicked93gs said:
I hear people saying they cut off half a coil here...3/4 of a coil there...I was just wondering what that translates into in terms of real world drop

I use an aluminum oxide dut-off wheel. If you want a 1" drop cut about 1/2" from the spring height. Reinstall them and drive around for 20 or so miles to allow them to set.

mikethebike · Sep 13, 2007

Hack said:
Just cut the darn things. I used my 4 1/2" angle grinder with a (thin) cut off wheel and it took less than a minute to cut both. Dribble water on it? What a waste of time!

I wouldn't normally cut with a torch, but if that's all you have I don't see it as a big deal. If the temper is affected it will just sit a tad lower. If you use the same method to cut both the temper should be affected roughly the same amount.

Just cut a little at a time and drive the car after reinstalling to make sure it settles completely. Otherwise you'll end up with the car lower than you want.

Here's a trick from the old days. Compress your spring the amount you want to lower your car, put in an oven at 250 (it may be 350, it's been along time) for 20 hours, turn off oven and allow to coole overnight. You will lower your car without changing spring rate.

school me on cutting springs...

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That's why they call it "dope"

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