iskwezm
10 Year Member
I havent doent that yet and it rode really good with thIAS shocks, but i'll do it soon
school me on cutting springs...
- Thread starter wicked93gs
- Start date
RogerC62
Founding Member
There's a similar thread over on teamZX2.com and its amazing how different the opinions are on this subject. I check in over there on occasion as my daily driver is a 2000 ZX2. The mentality over there is its a sin to cut coils. They're more of a "tuner" crowd there. I have no problem with doing it and mine are cut to drop the front slightly more. If I keep the GW front suspension I need to make spacers for the shock mounting to get my shock travel back. I've actually created a taller shock mount design but I've lost the file and can't find the only paper copy I printed out. I guess I'll have to re-create it.
opentracker has a modified stock upper shock mount that is taller. the way he does it is interesting, he sections the mount and adds metal in but it's not a straight cut all the way across as one would/might think.
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/
not saying i know more, just that i've had a different experience that's all. my experience has led me to feel that cutting springs with a torch isn't the right way to do it, at least for me.
Z06killinSBF
Member
ratio411
Founding Member
The car in my avitar...
I cut the springs on that.
They must have been special metal or something, because a hack saw or a sawzall wouldn't even scratch the metal!
I heard folks on the F body boards that had the same issues when chopping.
The dremel had the same issue.
4 1/2 and 6 inch grinders would get the job done, but at the cost of burning up many discs.
Luckily, I went straight to the 14" chop saw when the hacksaw and sawzall failed.
I guess it may be the difference between 35 yo springs and 2 yo springs.
Or modern metalurgy and classic metalurgy.
CraigMBA
New Member
It won't change the ride at all. It will make your car launch a little different because you're going to take (whatever the spacer winds up being)" of downtravel out.
On a really sticky track less downtravel is better.
When grip sucks, a little more travel can be a plus.
Either way, you won't miss it.
Hack
15 Year Member
Just cut the darn things. I used my 4 1/2" angle grinder with a (thin) cut off wheel and it took less than a minute to cut both. Dribble water on it? What a waste of time! 
I wouldn't normally cut with a torch, but if that's all you have I don't see it as a big deal. If the temper is affected it will just sit a tad lower. If you use the same method to cut both the temper should be affected roughly the same amount.
Just cut a little at a time and drive the car after reinstalling to make sure it settles completely. Otherwise you'll end up with the car lower than you want.
I wouldn't normally cut with a torch, but if that's all you have I don't see it as a big deal. If the temper is affected it will just sit a tad lower. If you use the same method to cut both the temper should be affected roughly the same amount.
Just cut a little at a time and drive the car after reinstalling to make sure it settles completely. Otherwise you'll end up with the car lower than you want.
CraigMBA
New Member
We are forgetting that at least half the spring sits on the spring saddle either way and it's temper doesn't matter. If you only go back 6" of wire and untemper it, the rest of the spring will never know.
I used a 4.5" angle grinder with cutoff disc to cut my springs. Cut quickly with no issues... didn't even look like it wore down the disc much.
14" abrasive saw and angle grinder with a cutting wheel is pretty much the same thing. The discs are made of the same materials, although the 14" is slightly thicker.
I had an old-school welder repair a leaf spring for me in my teenage years (I couldn't afford gas much less new springs). He was able to weld the spring without problem... he said the key was to cool the metal faster than in free air, but slower than in water. So he poured used moter oil over the spring immedaitely after welding.
Everyone said "It'll never work, you've ruined the temper of the spring" etc.. But truth be told I beat on that car for 5 more years before selling it... never had another problem.
14" abrasive saw and angle grinder with a cutting wheel is pretty much the same thing. The discs are made of the same materials, although the 14" is slightly thicker.
I had an old-school welder repair a leaf spring for me in my teenage years (I couldn't afford gas much less new springs). He was able to weld the spring without problem... he said the key was to cool the metal faster than in free air, but slower than in water. So he poured used moter oil over the spring immedaitely after welding.
Everyone said "It'll never work, you've ruined the temper of the spring" etc.. But truth be told I beat on that car for 5 more years before selling it... never had another problem.
ratio411
Founding Member
4.5" electric grinder vs 16" 8 hp 2 stroke cut off saw (fitted with 14" abrasive blade)
Not quite the same...
View attachment 363369
zookeeper
Founding Member
I use an aluminum oxide dut-off wheel. If you want a 1" drop cut about 1/2" from the spring height. Reinstall them and drive around for 20 or so miles to allow them to set.
Just cut the darn things. I used my 4 1/2" angle grinder with a (thin) cut off wheel and it took less than a minute to cut both. Dribble water on it? What a waste of time!
I wouldn't normally cut with a torch, but if that's all you have I don't see it as a big deal. If the temper is affected it will just sit a tad lower. If you use the same method to cut both the temper should be affected roughly the same amount.
Just cut a little at a time and drive the car after reinstalling to make sure it settles completely. Otherwise you'll end up with the car lower than you want.
Here's a trick from the old days. Compress your spring the amount you want to lower your car, put in an oven at 250 (it may be 350, it's been along time) for 20 hours, turn off oven and allow to coole overnight. You will lower your car without changing spring rate.
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