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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-

School me on tie rod ends and balljoints!

  • Thread starter Thread starter BurningRubber
  • Start date Start date Dec 20, 2010

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
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Dec 20, 2010
#1
  • Dec 20, 2010
  • #1
I'm having some bad alignment issues in my car along with some funky noises.

Whenever I am stopped or at a low speed, turning the wheel creates a very noticeable squeak from the right front tire area. I assume this is a ball joint or bad tie rod end.

I think both need to be replaced, as the car has terrible bumpsteer (not lowered THAT much, Roush springs) and pulls like crazy over any surface that isn't completely even.

I also have a bad strut (I have replacements waiting to go on) and I know that I need to take care of that before doing ball joints and TRE's in order to get a clean alignment.

So... what are some quality replacements? I was looking at the Steeda bumpsteer kit and x2 balljoints. Will these take care of my issues, are there better ones? Do they have to be used together?

I assume the bumpsteer kit is a set of modified tie-rod ends? What about replacing the inner tie-rods, is that a good idea or do they usually last longer than the outers?


Any info or input is great... thanks.
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
238
184
MN
Dec 20, 2010
#2
  • Dec 20, 2010
  • #2
I'd replace the outer tie-rods before replacing the inners. One thing I don't like about the bumpsteer kits is the fact that the ball/socket connection isn't protected by a rubber sheath like the stocker is. I'd replace the ball joints with the X2's and that should nearly correct the bump steer issue by lowering the a-arm. I replaced my tie-rod ends with MOOG parts and they are a really nice alternative to the stock ends. I like the fact that they have grease fittings, too.

You'll know more once you get under there, but I'd start by ordering the ball joints (they are a nice upgrade even if your stock stuff is fine) and buying some factory replacement tie-rod ends instead of the bumpsteer kit. While you are under there doing the replacement feel for any play in the inner tie rods and if there's noticeable play go to the local parts store to buy some inner tie rods.
 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
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58
Dec 20, 2010
#3
  • Dec 20, 2010
  • #3
Thanks for that N8. I saw the Moog replacements while looking around and wasn't sure if they'd be a good replacement.

I also noticed that about the Steeda parts, they're open to the elements.

Pretty sure that balljoint is shot, and I think the TRE is taking a lot of wear. The steering is pretty dis-coordinated and it feels like the front end is fighting itself whenever there's a bump or uneven surface. Might as well do it all for preventative maintenance. Also have replacement rack bushings I haven't gotten to yet.
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
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MN
Dec 20, 2010
#4
  • Dec 20, 2010
  • #4
BurningRubber said:
Thanks for that N8. I saw the Moog replacements while looking around and wasn't sure if they'd be a good replacement.

I also noticed that about the Steeda parts, they're open to the elements.

Pretty sure that balljoint is shot, and I think the TRE is taking a lot of wear. The steering is pretty dis-coordinated and it feels like the front end is fighting itself whenever there's a bump or uneven surface. Might as well do it all for preventative maintenance. Also have replacement rack bushings I haven't gotten to yet.
Click to expand...

I was just thinking of that too. Rack bushings make a real nice difference. If you really wanted to go all out, you may also want to consider a MM steering shaft w/ the solid joints rather than the stock rag joint. I don't have any personal experience, but I've heard great things about them... probably not necessary unless you are racing but thought I'd throw it out there.

Have you ever called maximum motorsports? They are incredibly helpful and can probably provide more insight on whether or not you need a bumpsteer kit. I'd avoid it if at all possible because the change interval is increased due to the bushing being exposed to the elements. I don't know how far your car is lowered but do know that the X2 ball joints will likely eliminate or at least noticeably reduce the bump steer w/o having to install a bumpsteer kit.

Which rack bushings did you buy?
 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
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58
Dec 20, 2010
#5
  • Dec 20, 2010
  • #5
I believe they are Prothane urethane rack bushings, non-offset. My car is only lowered about 1 1/4" in the front. Not low enough to need C/C plates for a good alignment, which is what I was going for.

I've looked at MM's products and am aware that they are very impressive, but I haven't called them about anything because I've only been doing a little bit here and there and haven't planned on any big suspension upgrades in the near future.

If the x2 joints take out the bumpsteer, I'd be happy with that. I looked those Moog TRE's up and they're $36 each compared to the $160 for the bumpsteer kit. I also found the x2 joints for about $30 less than anywhere else... so that's shaping up nicely.


Thanks for your help man, glad to see there's some knowledge left in our poor 4.6 section.
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
238
184
MN
Dec 20, 2010
#6
  • Dec 20, 2010
  • #6
BurningRubber said:
I believe they are Prothane urethane rack bushings, non-offset. My car is only lowered about 1 1/4" in the front. Not low enough to need C/C plates for a good alignment, which is what I was going for.

I've looked at MM's products and am aware that they are very impressive, but I haven't called them about anything because I've only been doing a little bit here and there and haven't planned on any big suspension upgrades in the near future.

If the x2 joints take out the bumpsteer, I'd be happy with that. I looked those Moog TRE's up and they're $36 each compared to the $160 for the bumpsteer kit. I also found the x2 joints for about $30 less than anywhere else... so that's shaping up nicely.


Thanks for your help man, glad to see there's some knowledge left in our poor 4.6 section.
Click to expand...

I know... the 4.6 cars are old enough now where most of the knowledgeable folks have either upgraded to a Cobra, S197, or just don't post here anymore. Maybe we're in the downtime where a bunch of young new buyers are getting them since they are cheap and will become knowledgeable in the future.

Perhaps since I've had my car for 7 years, have done everything except remove the engine and have spent countless hours researching mods on teh internet there is really nothing new to me anymore

I am old

BTW, I know nothing about nitrous and plan on setting up my car with a 100 shot likely in the spring. You know much about this stuff?
 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
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Dec 20, 2010
#7
  • Dec 20, 2010
  • #7
N8Dogg98 said:
I know... the 4.6 cars are old enough now where most of the knowledgeable folks have either upgraded to a Cobra, S197, or just don't post here anymore. Maybe we're in the downtime where a bunch of young new buyers are getting them since they are cheap and will become knowledgeable in the future.

Perhaps since I've had my car for 7 years, have done everything except remove the engine and have spent countless hours researching mods on teh internet there is really nothing new to me anymore

I am old

BTW, I know nothing about nitrous and plan on setting up my car with a 100 shot likely in the spring. You know much about this stuff?
Click to expand...


Yeah I understand that... I wouldn't mind stepping into a new Mustang, but mine's paid off and I'm comfortable working on it. Plus, can't afford to step into something I really want on a college budget, haha.

I got mine right when prices started to go down for the early PI cars (bought it in 2006) and was 18 at the time. I've tried to soak in as much knowledge as possible over the years as well, lol.


As far as nitrous... I'm not an expert but I've gotten familiar with it over the past year. I'm running a 100 shot and it's a blast. If you have any questions, ask away.
 
D

darkside03gt

Member
Feb 19, 2007
851
8
18
Sacramento CA
Dec 20, 2010
#8
  • Dec 20, 2010
  • #8
Before you pull the trigger on those x2 ball joints call MM and ask them what they think about them. I'll bet you dont buy them afterwards. Like someone told me all the bad ass steeda cars that win races are sitting in the parking lot while mm and griggs are on the track.

I would buy some stock replacement ball joints from tousely ford (best deal on the net) I would also get a set of stock tie rods while your at it as the bump steer kit will be a little overkill for your car unless you auto cross the car often.

Sorry i couldnt be more help but squeking in the suspension can be one of the hardest things to track down.
 

Dark04GT

10 Year Member
Apr 27, 2008
758
62
59
NC
Dec 21, 2010
#9
  • Dec 21, 2010
  • #9
My stang's tie rods were well worn on both sides when I tried to have a wheel alignment at ~55k. I thought something might be wrong but honestly I didn't notice much besides feeling like I was tracking on small bumps like you are describing. I didn't know how to check the tie rods and have never dealt w/ tie rods before. Luckily the mechanic was nice and didn't charge me / explained what needed to be done before I had to get my wheels aligned.

Tie rod problems seems to be common on our cars. I had my local shop replace the outers and the inners because labor-wise it is easy to do both while you are in the same area. If you have never had them replaced and you have some play in your tires (car's wheels lifted in the front, hands at 9 and 3 o'clock on the wheel, you notice an excessive amount of play when you push back and forth) than I would probably replace them +/- the ball joints and take your car for an alignment afterwards.
 

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
Dec 22, 2010
#10
  • Dec 22, 2010
  • #10
Ha. I changed my oil last night, and likewise rotated my tires. While I had the front end jacked up, I thought of checking the tie-rod ends. Both are worn COMPLETELY out. Like, over a quarter of an inch movement left and right, each. This probably explains the horrible tracking problem I've had for the last 6 or so months. Good news is that the inner part seems to be fine.

Guess I'll be ordering some outer tie rods soon. Where is the best place to buy the Moog parts suggested above?
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
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184
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Dec 22, 2010
#11
  • Dec 22, 2010
  • #11
sneaky98gt said:
Ha. I changed my oil last night, and likewise rotated my tires. While I had the front end jacked up, I thought of checking the tie-rod ends. Both are worn COMPLETELY out. Like, over a quarter of an inch movement left and right, each. This probably explains the horrible tracking problem I've had for the last 6 or so months. Good news is that the inner part seems to be fine.

Guess I'll be ordering some outer tie rods soon. Where is the best place to buy the Moog parts suggested above?
Click to expand...

I bought mine from O'Reilly's and they were cheap. I was quite impressed with the quality though.
 

mustang50v8

Member
Feb 4, 2003
548
3
18
847 Chicago Burbs
Dec 22, 2010
#12
  • Dec 22, 2010
  • #12
i know they sell moog stuff at advance auto parts.


i have them on my cobra and comparing the moog ball joints to the ford ones the difference in quality is amazing. moog is awesome. why ford ever put in "lifetime" non-greaseable parts is beyond me.
 

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
Dec 22, 2010
#13
  • Dec 22, 2010
  • #13
BurninRubber, I hate to hijack but I have a question that's relevant to the issue at hand.

Do the Steeda X2 ball joints lower the front any?
 

N8Dogg98

15 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
3,872
238
184
MN
Dec 22, 2010
#14
  • Dec 22, 2010
  • #14
sneaky98gt said:
BurninRubber, I hate to hijack but I have a question that's relevant to the issue at hand.

Do the Steeda X2 ball joints lower the front any?
Click to expand...

They don't lower the front per se, but they do lower the a-arm respective to the wheel.
 

SRT Handz

I tripped & fell down and cut myself & got blood
Oct 10, 2004
941
23
19
La Mirada, CA
Dec 22, 2010
#15
  • Dec 22, 2010
  • #15
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/828920-new-fk-rod-ends-trip-westendalignment.html
 
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