Screwed up gonna start over....Intake Manifold.

[The1nonlyrex]

Alright well I was running quite a few trouble codes after my quick attempt at an Explorer IM swap. So I am going to start over and pace myself a bit before Spring hits. I have a few questions and am new to the Mustang world so all help I have already gotten, as well as any future assistance is greatly appreciated.
Background info: 1988 Mustang GT 5 Speed. Only modification is an air intake. Also with a good description of what needs to be done I consider myself intelligent/handy enough to get the job done right if I have proper parts.

My first and biggest question is how well the late model Explorer intake works? I got mine out of a 98 prior to realizing the one I wanted was from 96-97. Would I be better off biting the bullet and getting a different IM at this point or will I be ok? I realize the Vac leads are different on mine versus the 96-97 upper and assume I can work around that but need to know if that is not the case as well as other issues I may run into. On my first swap I'd read that the ACT can be placed other places than the undrilled boss at runner #5. If this is true I'd prefer not to drill into my lower IM. How important is it to have vacuum lines going to specific locations over less specific. IE does the line for the BAP sensor have to go into a certain location on the upper, etc? I am sure I am missing some of my current questions but hope I can get these answered first.

Also I have been forced to utilize the TB off the explorer as well, due to mine being seized onto my stock upper IM and breaking rather than coming off properly. I have made the necessary adjustments to it and purchased an aftermarket EGR spacer to allow it to bolt on properly.

 

[90stang5speed]

There should not be ANY vac line going to the BAP sensor. as for vac lines. be sure to look carefully and cap any unused ports. I found a cracked vac tube on mine just the other day so make sure they are all secure in the manifold as well. The ACT sensor isnt that important in the tune so you can relocate it to the air filter box or somewhere like that. DONT just unplug it and forget it though. for a while I just let mine sit on top of the lower intake but that isnt the right way to do it either. for one, it can flop around & be damaged. I have just been lucky.

 

[mob]

You can mount the ACT a few other places other than the manifold but its probably going to get messy. Its going to stick out like a sore thumb and you are going to have to do a little wiring (extending/routing). Not a big deal but most people fear wiring.

I would recomend getting the manifold drilled and tapped. It is the proper way to do it when you do the swap and you wont have to mess with any wiring. If you dont feel comfortable doing it yourself ( I didnt) Find a local machine or engine shop and they will do it for you. I dropped mine off at an engine shop and they charged me 20 bucks to do it and picked it up the next day. If you ever need to remove the sensor you can always just stick a pipe plug in there, not that I think you are going to need to sell the intake to an explorer owner again though. If you choose an alternate route you are looking at drilling into your air box or intake hose.

The vacuum lines dont matter. All the lines on the manifold are pulling the same vaccum for the same purpose. All you want to do is try to keep the hose sizes the same. You dont want to put a big vacuum line on a small source. You may need to extend and re-route some of the lines and you can put plastic T's on some of the lines if needed, no biggy.

 

[90stang5speed]

I didnt want to restrict air flow to the # 5 is another reason I didnt tap mine.

 

[The1nonlyrex]

Alright well I also plan on keeping my ACT loose for the time being under the driver side fuel rail basically right where it would normally be retained. I'll put it in after I do a heads swap when I have money to fuss with that. 1 step at a time I suppose. That being said I still wanna make sure the 98+ Explorer IM is satisfactory because I only see small differences but a lot of people speak very lowly of it. Any input? Would I be a lot better off going with a better IM like a TF or Eddy? If so I'd have to go with that purchase instead of rear gears...

 

[90stang5speed]

If you already have the intake, I would say use it & do a set of 3.73 gears. While you are in there, if you plan on making a lot of power in the future, you might want to go ahead & do 31 spline axles & 5 lug conversion. To save a little on that you can get some junkyard ranger drums that are the same size just 5 lug.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

There should not be ANY vac line going to the BAP sensor.

That's not correct. He said his car is a stock 88 GT, which means he has speed density, so his BAP sensor is actually a MAP sensor and DOES need a vacuum line attached to it.

 

[90stang5speed]

Thanks for the corection. I dont like to put out bad info. Im used to my 90 with the MAF setup & a BAP sensor. sorry about that.

 

[NIKwoaC]

Alright well I also plan on keeping my ACT loose for the time being under the driver side fuel rail basically right where it would normally be retained. I'll put it in after I do a heads swap when I have money to fuss with that. 1 step at a time I suppose.

If you want to do it right and avoid getting trouble codes, then you WON'T just leave the ACT laying there in the engine bay. Get the runner drilled and tapped and put the ACT sensor in there.

Yes, you can place the ACT sensor elsewhere in the intake tract, but this will lead to some problems. The following is a post made by vristang, a member who posts here every once in a while (I hope he doesn't mind me using this, haha).

How will the Fox computer react to the ACT being moved from the lower intake to the Intake Airbox?
Thumbing through the TwEECer (CalEdit) this is what can be seen...

In the X3Z Calibration
FN 825B - ACT will increase the engine idle rpm after about 192F, maxing out at 64rpm by 208F
FN 220 - EGR Multiplier is 0 until 58F, maxes out at 1 by 60F
FN 126 - Spark advance starts to retard at 160F maxing out at -2* by 190F
FN 135 - WOT spark advance is retarded starting at 150F, maxing out at -6* by 240F
FN 300 - Open Loop Fuel Multiplier is unaffected by ACT (always 1)
SCALAR - ACT MUST be between 100F and 200F for the Adaptive Strategy to start learning

In the A9L Calibration
FN 825B - ACT will increase the engine rpm by 48rpm at 200F, and a max of 72rpm at 226F
EGR Multiplier is .8 until 0F, then rises to a max of 1 by 56F
FN 126 - Spark advance starts to retard at 160F maxing out at -2* at 190F
FN 135 - WOT spark advance is retarded starting at 150F, maxing out at -6* by 240F
FN 300 - Open Loop Fuel Multiplier is .64 until -40F, .81 by 0F, and maxes out at 1 by 76F
SCALAR - ACT MUST be between 100F and 200F for the Adaptive Strategy to start learning

So what does this mean?
Idle speed ? Obviously for both calibrations the affect is going to be minimal, assuming all other idle contributors are working properly. Moving the ACT to a cooler location should not have a major impact on idle speed.

EGR ? Moving the ACT to a cooler location will affect the function of the EGR. It would not be recommended to try and pass an emissions test with the ACT in the airbox on a cold day (below 60F).

Spark ? The Spark Advance is RETARDED with higher temps. Moving the ACT to the airbox can help to keep ignition timing higher. However, keep in mind that Ford used the ACT as a ?Safety Factor? for preventing high temp detonation. False information to the EEC-IV will make detonation more likely when the engine is warm/hot.

Fuel Multiplier ? The Fuel Multiplier increases with higher ACT temps. Due to the low temps at which the ACT will impact the Fuel Multiplier this is not likely to cause an issue.

Adaptive Strategy ? This may be the most critical one for most daily driver Mustangs. Not allowing the Adaptive Control to function (because the ACT never sees 100F in the airbox), could hurt fuel economy and could cause drivability issues.

What you have to realize is that EVERY sensor in an EFI system serves a purpose, and manipulating or removing any one sensor WILL affect the system in some way, and USUALLY negatively.

That being said I still wanna make sure the 98+ Explorer IM is satisfactory because I only see small differences but a lot of people speak very lowly of it. Any input? Would I be a lot better off going with a better IM like a TF or Eddy? If so I'd have to go with that purchase instead of rear gears...

Who speaks lowly of it? The only reason you'd want the early Explorer intake is because it is an easier bolt-in for a 5.0 Mustang. The later one is no different in terms of performance.

FYI:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...orer-gt-40-intake-thread-56k-dont-bother.html

Yes, there are aftermarket intakes out there that are "better" than the Exploder, but at this point your money is better spent on gears.

That's not correct. He said his car is a stock 88 GT, which means he has speed density, so his BAP sensor is actually a MAP sensor and DOES need a vacuum line attached to it.

+1

 

[90stang5speed]

That is a good write up on the ACT sensor. I should have said, for my aplication, it isnt that Important. I dont have any EGR to worry about. As an N/A car, my ACT has never read over 135* even on the hotest days of summer so, no spark retard issues. I have the adaptive learning turned off so I could better dial in the 90 mm LMAF with my wide band. Again, I dont like to put out bad info. I gave an answer based on what has worked for me on my car. I should not assume it will be the same for the ones Im not familiar with.

 

[The1nonlyrex]

Yeah that all makes sense. Only problem for me with Freaky's write up which seems incredibly thorough and helpful is none of the pictures seem to work for me, and I think it might be a settings issue. Any ideas as I'd love to be able to take a look at those.

 

[NIKwoaC]

Yeah that all makes sense. Only problem for me with Freaky's write up which seems incredibly thorough and helpful is none of the pictures seem to work for me, and I think it might be a settings issue. Any ideas as I'd love to be able to take a look at those.

I think the pictures stopped working a few years back. You just have to read and use your imagination.

 

[The1nonlyrex]

For the EGR is the length of Vac line important? I read somewhere that having over 10" is important but wasn't sure why or anything of that nature.

 

[mob]

I didnt want to restrict air flow to the # 5 is another reason I didnt tap mine.

LOL Really? How is an ACT sensor going to restrict airflow.

Alright well I also plan on keeping my ACT loose for the time being under the driver side fuel rail basically right where it would normally be retained. I'll put it in after I do a heads swap when I have money to fuss with that. 1 step at a time I suppose. That being said I still wanna make sure the 98+ Explorer IM is satisfactory because I only see small differences but a lot of people speak very lowly of it. Any input? Would I be a lot better off going with a better IM like a TF or Eddy? If so I'd have to go with that purchase instead of rear gears...

LOL REALLY?! If you cant install the ACT sensor then just put the stock intake back on until you get it ready. Why do anything at all if you arent going to do it right. ACT sensor? Meh who cares, broken bolts? meh, I'll worry bout it later. Forgot to install intake gaskets? Meh, it'll be fineee.

Honestly you aren't even upgrading the car, you are just tearing it apart by pieces.

 

[The1nonlyrex]

Hmm...

Hey Mob I appreciate you wanting me to do the ACT right, and I would prefer to. However I am not sure that is in the cards right now. And with all the other nonsense you spoke, you don't know me, so don't talk crap where it isn't due. So I choose to do one small thing outside of the box, which clearly has been an acceptable (albeit unorthodox, and probably not best practice) way of doing it and you jump down my throat like I am just going to halfa** my entire situation. One small err on my side does not give you that right. So unless you have sound advice or something helpful to say maybe you should stay out of my thread.