Searched to no avail...
- Thread starter law
- Start date
BlackVert
15 Year Member
you probably have a vacuum leak. get some carb cleaner and, with the car idling, spray it at different tubes around the engine. if the idle changes, that is where the leak is.
also check the tube to the fuel pressure regulator. it can come if it is old or gets oily inside. that will also increase the fuel pressure at idle which could cause a rich condition.
the best time to own a car is after you paid it off. no need to sell it.
also check the tube to the fuel pressure regulator. it can come if it is old or gets oily inside. that will also increase the fuel pressure at idle which could cause a rich condition.
the best time to own a car is after you paid it off. no need to sell it.
Sounds like you might be in over your head here, and this barage of suggestions is only making matters worse.law said:
Keep it real simple. Start from when the car first started exhibiting the issue and work from there. Talk to your mechanic friend again, as whatever he did made things worse not better. Or just start looking for a good shop (most likely not the stealership, oh I meant dealership).
My guess would be you need to adjust your timing.
Good luck.
I just have a couple of more issues that may help. It has a rough idle in park. Otherwise the idle is fine in drive or reverse. Also I tested it this morning and it also pings at WOT when it is cold. I will not be able to inspect anything until this afternoon when I get off of work. I will try all of your suggestions and talk to my friend and go from there. I think I have a good start. Thanks for all the replys.
Glad to see you sticking with it. It can seem daunting, but slogging through this stuff is the only way to get to the bottom of it.
Best of luck with finding out what it is and/or getting more info for the thread.
Best of luck with finding out what it is and/or getting more info for the thread.
Okay guys, well I think I found the problem. My harmonic balancer is out. I got under the car and saw the rubber sticking out of the side. So I am going to attempt to replace it this weekend. Hopefully it is something that I can tackle with your help. The only thing I need to know is if the Pioneer harmonic dampner from Autozone is worth it. I do not have time to order anything online because I need to do this as soon as possible because I need my car. Or should I try NAPA? Thanks for your help.
CManT1914
New Member
Great to hear you found the problem! Pioneer balancers are good balancers from what I hear. JT (HISSIN50) will probably chime in with more info, I think he has one on one of his stangs. You will need a balancer puller to get the old one off, and you can use it to put the new one on as well. You can buy one at Sears for $20, or I think you can rent them from parts stores too. It's a SUPER EASY swap. It shouldn't be any problem. Might wanna have a timing light handy to check it afterwards.Yep. Pioneer is good stuff. It is a 3021 for a fox - not sure what the SN95 version is, if different.
I am with Chris - go rent/loan out a balancer removal and installation tool (all in one kit).
The repair manual will help with the R/R, as will searching in here (some folks have done thorough write-ups, where I would leave stuff out).
You will need a breaker bar, PB blaster, anti seize is good, RTV, a large socket (it was like 15/16" or perhaps only 13/16" on the fox - again a search reveals the exact size in case you need to buy one).
The install tool is nice so that you dont take a chance on messing up your crank threads. That is why I like that tool (AZ here did not have one, but CSK did).
Figured on spending a couple hours on doing it - if it is your first time. I say that because the crank bolt might fight you for awhile, in and of itself. It could take 30 mins to one hour if stuff goes smooth.
And as Chris said, a timing light is nice to have. You dont need it for the balancer itself - there is a key-way so the balancer can only go on one way. But if you have set the timing with the bad balancer, and the bad balancer's outer ring had slid, your timing is off now. The fresh balancer and timing light will allow you to retime it to your desire.
Good luck.
I am with Chris - go rent/loan out a balancer removal and installation tool (all in one kit).
The repair manual will help with the R/R, as will searching in here (some folks have done thorough write-ups, where I would leave stuff out).
You will need a breaker bar, PB blaster, anti seize is good, RTV, a large socket (it was like 15/16" or perhaps only 13/16" on the fox - again a search reveals the exact size in case you need to buy one).
The install tool is nice so that you dont take a chance on messing up your crank threads. That is why I like that tool (AZ here did not have one, but CSK did).
Figured on spending a couple hours on doing it - if it is your first time. I say that because the crank bolt might fight you for awhile, in and of itself. It could take 30 mins to one hour if stuff goes smooth.
And as Chris said, a timing light is nice to have. You dont need it for the balancer itself - there is a key-way so the balancer can only go on one way. But if you have set the timing with the bad balancer, and the bad balancer's outer ring had slid, your timing is off now. The fresh balancer and timing light will allow you to retime it to your desire.
Good luck.
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter 
law said:
well glad you went through the work to find it. I know it's frustrating, as I delt with this same crap too.
Let us know what happens after you install your new balancer and set your base timing.
Scott
I found that Checker Auto Parts has the exact same part number for the harmonic balancer for 76.99 and Autozones price is 97.99. That is a big difference. I assume if it is the same part number and they are both pioneer that it is the same balancer. That is just a big difference in price. The only problem is that it states on their websites that they are not normally stocked in stores. I am going to have to wait a day or two. My question is that I can still buy they kit or rent the kit and just at least get the old one off until the new comes in. I figured the hard part is getting all that off anyways. Where can I get a timing light and what kind do I need to buy. Autozone, checkers, sears? What do you guys think?
CManT1914
New Member
law, the stores here let you rent stuff for 24 hours. So if you rent it to take it off, you're gonna have to rent it again later when you put the new one back on. It's no big deal (especially since it doesn't cost anything to rent it), you'll just have to make an extra trip or two down there to turn it in and check it out again, lol.
CManT1914
New Member
Well, I only buy Craftsman tools. I bought a Craftsman timing light from Sears, I got the one with the built in advance. It was the only one they had when I went, and I needed a timing light badly to get my stang running.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...921023000&subcat=Automotive+Testing+Equipment The one I bought
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...921027000&subcat=Automotive+Testing+Equipment
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...902137000&subcat=Automotive+Testing+Equipment The one I'd recommend.
I'm sure there are cheaper ones. But $35 isn't too bad, and a timing light is something you will definitely use more than once. Might as well get a good one.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...921023000&subcat=Automotive+Testing+Equipment The one I bought
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...921027000&subcat=Automotive+Testing+Equipment
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...902137000&subcat=Automotive+Testing+Equipment The one I'd recommend.
I'm sure there are cheaper ones. But $35 isn't too bad, and a timing light is something you will definitely use more than once. Might as well get a good one.
Well I finally got the overflow bottle and fan shroud off. That is all I really wanted to do today because the part wont be in until Monday afternoon anyways. I got a Pioneer harmonic balancer from checkers. I did a search I found that I need PB plaster, anti-seize, RTV or ATV for key groove in balancer and washer for cranck bolt. Can anyone tell me what the PB plaster is for and anti-seize?
Ouch! You found those items in a search, when I had tried to help and listed all those things in my last post on this thread.law said:
PB is a penetrating oil that is like liquid gold sometimes. It breaks stuck fasteners loose. Your crank bolt is on there with 100 ft-lbs of torque and after 10+ years, it might need help. I would spray the crank bolt down the night before you remove it and then again a few mins before you actually remove the bolt.
I put neverseize on the inside hub of the balancer (where it slides over the crank). THis helps you to get the balancer to slide on easier and helps next time you need to remove it.
I was unsure if you thought you needed a new washer for the crank bolt, or that you can put RTV under the head of the washer. It is the latter (your old washer should be fine to reuse). There has been many a debate over RTV'ing the keyway. I dont do it but most folks do. It cant hurt.
Good luck.
CManT1914
New Member
HISSIN50 said:
Maybe he searched and found your reply and didn't realize it was you! lol
FWIW, I RTV'ed my keyway. No leaks
Methodical
15 Year Member
You can rent tools from Autozone for as longs as you need them. They just hold your deposit 'til you return the tool at least that's the policy where I live. Definitely use the antisieze on the crankshaft hub. Also, I used a 5/8" socket on my balancer bolt but it's an ARP bolt but I can't remember if it's the same size as the stock bolt - sorry.
Peace
Al
Peace
Al
Similar threads
