Seat Stud Ripped Through

onefstsnake · Dec 9, 2005

The front right seat stud on the drivers side ripped though and pulled a nice chunk of sheet metal with it... WTF

How am I gunna fix this?

I JB Welded it in place for now, but I doubt thats gunna hold up...

90mustangGT · Dec 9, 2005

Had the same issue, had it welded back into place.

gt40_2003wes · Dec 9, 2005

get a new piece of sheet metal and have it rewelded.

Black-Fifty · Dec 9, 2005

Same thing heppened when my fat ass leaned back too far. I just used a big bolt with a washer and tightened it down from under the car. What ever works.

onefstsnake · Dec 10, 2005

the piece of metal that tore out is about 2" x 1" So Im hoping the JB weld will hold for a while till I get subframes. Then I can run longer bolts.

Euphoric306 · Dec 10, 2005

ouch man, any rust involved or did you just plop down in the seat a little hard?

onefstsnake · Dec 10, 2005

Im pretty sure I bought the car this way. Guy I bought it from said the guy he bought it from was a big guy.

I dont think im that big... 195lbs

No rust, just tore right out. Metal almost feels like plastic... Cheap...

The subframes that connect to the seat mounts will fix this right?

I thought about cutting that piece out and welding in a piece of square tube... But that would be alot of work...

jrichker · Dec 10, 2005

onefstsnake said:
Im pretty sure I bought the car this way. Guy I bought it from said the guy he bought it from was a big guy.

I dont think im that big... 195lbs

No rust, just tore right out. Metal almost feels like plastic... Cheap...

The subframes that connect to the seat mounts will fix this right?

I thought about cutting that piece out and welding in a piece of square tube... But that would be alot of work...

No, the subframes take care of the rear seat mounts.

The front seat studs are welded to a inverted "U" shaped channel that is welded to the floor pan. There is no access to them from the underside of the car.

I had 2 "L" shaped pieces fabbed from 16 gauge steel. I set them down on the existing channel so that they made a "[". Then they were marked and trimmed for size and fit. I drilled the stud holes and used a 3/8" fine thread aircraft nutplate in place of the missing stud. Then I used Cherrylock rivets (high strength aircraft blind rivets) to secure the new "[" shaped section in place.

I used aircraft rivets instead of welding because the end product is stronger and I don't have easy access to a welder. If anyone has any doubts about rivet vs. welding, try and find a metal airplane that is all welded. You won't find any.

If you have access to the proper tools, my fix will be really simple. If not, then maybe you can modify it to work for you. Instead of using a nutplate, you could tack weld a bolt in place of the missing stud. If you could find some steel pop rivets that did not pull the stem out when they set. You could use them in place of Cherrylock rivets. The rivet stem needs to stay in place to give strength to the rivet. The stem in the rivet makes it solid and not flimsy and easy to shear off.

It may be that welding the "L" shaped pieces in place one at a time would work. Cut and fit one "L", drill the bolt hole and the weld a bolt in the hole that is for the missing stud. Then weld it in place. The repeat the cut and fit of the next "L" and weld it in place.

onefstsnake · Dec 10, 2005

do you think JB Weld Will hold it in place?

jrichker · Dec 10, 2005

onefstsnake said:
do you think JB Weld Will hold it in place?

Only if you don't sit in the seat...

onefstsnake · Dec 10, 2005

jrichker said:
Only if you don't sit in the seat...

amnit:

So the only way to fix it is to weld it in?

Wonder how much that would cost... Unfortunately I cant weld..

jrichker · Dec 10, 2005

onefstsnake said:
amnit:

So the only way to fix it is to weld it in?

Wonder how much that would cost... Unfortunately I cant weld..

That's why I did it with the aircraft structual grade blind rivets...

vristang · Dec 10, 2005

JB Weld could work very well, or not at all. It depends on how the adhesive is loaded. From the adhesive testing I did in school all adhesives are very impressive in tension/shear, but horrible in peel.

I had my seat stud rip out as well. (I guess that 230lb guys aren't supposed to lean back very hard.)
I took it to a weld shop and it cost me about $10. With the time it took to pull the carpet out (I used the opportunity to replace the carpet), I was still only took a few hours.

Black-Fifty · Dec 10, 2005

You dont have to weld it, Just get a big ass bolt, and drill a hole through the floor board, and tighten it down with a but. Then put some silicon or sealer to keep water from getting it.

onefstsnake · Dec 10, 2005

Do you know what size bolt I need? Length and thread pitch?

Seems like a longer bolt would be much stronger than rewelding the part that broke. The metal that the front part of the seats bolt too isnt much thicker than aluminum foil...

here is what tore out...

as you can see the JB Weld lasted for about 2 seconds.

bdollarbill · Dec 10, 2005

:Word: Black - fifty

I did both bolts thru the floor in my dragcar when I mounted the fiberglass seat worked way better than stud mount from OEM. I wanted to be sure my 230lb azz stayed put in the event of a catastrofic failure! No problems at all with the long bolts thru floorboard.

Bill

Black-Fifty · Dec 10, 2005

Yeah I cant remeber the size bolt, I just used what I had laying around my garage, it works soo much better it was prolly like 2inches long and about half inch thick but I cant be sure, just make sure you use a thick washer just in case.

onefstsnake · Dec 10, 2005

Well its fixed. Used the same size bolt just alot longer.

I also used an assortment of different sized washers to take up the space that the torn stud left.

Seat is firm now. Im very happy with the install.

Just need to get some sealant so water doesnt get in.

Thanks everyone.

Black-Fifty · Dec 11, 2005

See how easy it was lol.

Glad to see you got it done.

onefstsnake · Dec 11, 2005

Yeah I dont know why ford didnt just do this in the first place...

The metal that the original stud went into was like 18 gauge or less.

Eventually I will do this to th rest of the car. But that will wait till I find some new seats.

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