security for your daily driver

This is the alarm I got, not the greatest of options, but the remote fuel and power cutoff is pretty cool, there are a few other options on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wire...ryZ33721QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Just google 'GSM car alarm' and you will find a few options. I've been trying to find one that will integrate with my CarPC. I am setting up my carPC to email me with it's GPS every 5 minutes if my password is not entered on startup.

I've had my car broken into twice and am increasingly paranoid, if anyone wants ideas... I have a few...
 
Rember that our cars are easily hotwired and started from under the hood in a matter of only seconds. Starter kills, and immobilizers are pretty much useless for all but the most basic of theives.

I saw a great idea the other day. A fuel cut-off solenoid that must have power to allow the fuel to flow. With the fuel cut off, the theif could start the car, and probably get it out of the parking lot only to have it die once the carb bowls are empty.

So true. With some cheater clips, all ignition kill switches become worthless. I have locking hood pins on mine which will prevent this. My MSD box has an ignition disable mode and since its in the engine bay you can't hot wire it without opening the hood if I set the thing.

Even an electric fuel pump can be cheater cliped, its a lot harder to do tho, especially with an in tank pump.
 
Doesn't Grant, or one of the steering wheel companies, make a quick release device for the wheel?
Kinda like the guys that have quick release for the front wheel of their bike and then carry it with them.
Just make a spot on your key ring for the steering wheel! ;)

Electric fuel pumps are easy to wire where they don't run all the time.
One fuel bowl later, the car dies.

If you are not a purist, you can mount the battery and starter solenoid in the trunk. No way to hotwire past your ignition kill switch that way.

Hook a coil up to your alarm system and the DS door. That way it arms when you use the fob.
Now if the door handle is opened, and the alarm goes off, the coil will fire and light up the perp!
A buddy of mine in high school wired a coil to his exhaust, trying to light off the exhaust... Something was hooked up wrong though. He grabbed the door handle to get out of the car and look at the tail pipes, and was LIT UP HARD!
We laughed our arses off... :D
 
This may seem kind of crude, but i think its the master of all!!!

we can only put our distributor caps on one way, right. and we all pretty much know the firing order of the engine, so just write out the cylender #'s on the dist. cap. Then when you leave the car, unplug the spark wires from the cap and take the dist. cap with you!!. This prevents the need for clubs, kill switches and locking hood pins. of course, if you don't have a dist. your sol on this one.

another, remove a plug wire from each side, won't be able to start it either! grab a short one from one side and a long one from the other side.

use on of these with a boot, and i think you would be pretty safe.

I've never tried either of these, but i thought of them while reading.. seemd like good ideas to me!
 
Locking shifter, switched electric fuel pump, remove keys and place in pocket after locking doors. Another thing both ins. cos. and law enforcement say is make your car stand out. Most thieves do not want to be noticed. Also, being known around town helps. I get calls even if my wife is driving the '66.
 
For those who still use a mechanical pump, a fuel tank selector switch can be used with no second tank, just plug the input. It can be a mechanical switch or electric switch. If you are worried about someone hot wiring the electrical you can route the wires inside the car and drill a small hole for them to exit fight at the switch. Or route them in a metal conduit outside the car.
BTW a friend of mine is a sheriffs deputy and I was told that if a thief can not get away with a car in a minute or two he will likely leave the car, so deterrents can work. However this is not a blanket statement that covers all situations. Also if it is a professional the flatbed is a near fool prof method of lifting the car, it all depends on how bad they want your car.

Various transmission locks can work for the flatbed.
 
I see 2 locking shifter handles being used. How is the quality on those, i think there is only one vendor right now?

The thing I like the best about those is it keeps a kid from moving the shifter and rolling down the road in the antique he/she was curious to check out.

A chain thru the hood latch and down thru the rad support is on mine for a hood lock. I have a removable grant wheel that i am on the fence about, love that vintage std wheel/hate that steering column spear and dont want horn issues with grant. stock wheel for now. I will kill switch the fuel pump & msd this winter.

I use an agreed value insurance policy for the most part and dont worry too much about it.

need a trunk monkey too, thanks for the laugh.
 
well you can also use a safety screw, i forgot their real names but they have an awk shape and need a special tool, if u lose the tool however, not cool.
And i've researched t t-lock but i haven't been able to get in touch with the guy... when did you order it? (i tried getting in touch with him 5-6 months ago maybe it has changed; )
 
http://home.teleport.com/~cosa/vap/TLock.htm

i have this one and love it. The olny way to defeat this w/o ripping it off the car is to use a small allen wrench to remove the handle. If a theif happens to have one, then you are out of luck.

mike


Would some red lock-tight help at all or is there not enough thread to make it worth while. However, if it does work.... taking it off might not be so fun after that.....
 
"what are the two types of locking shifter handles? I've been looking for one for a while now."

I meant 2 ppl in this thread mention that they have it, sorry for the confusion. The link shown is the only one i've ever seen on the net. I will be ordering one soon.