Damn these SN95s! Well, I was talking to Ernie online and we got around to discussing the hanging idle issue we have. We seem to have almost an identical hanging issue. Now before anyone jumps the gun, yes, we have searched stangnet all over for an answer THAT WORKS. Our problems are:
-Revs it and hangs at 1600 for about 6 seconds, then drops to 900.
-Whenever shifting under 3000rpms, the rpms jump about 300-500
-I start the car, it immediately shoots to 2k and comes down in a second to around 1k. then itll drop to 500 and wobble between 500-1k.
-If i shift under 3k, itll jump about 300-500 rpms.
Im want to shoot my self. I pull codes and there is an "EGO LEAN" reading(EGO is the o2 sensor). So I fixed my EGR and it did NOTHING. Im going to check my timing once more then i need to hook up my adjustable FPR and see if i can toy with it. Im getting sick of this. ive only had it for like 3 days and im already mad. My next step is to get a diablo and have it set everything for me. F the dyno, F all the other stuff. Just tell diablo what i have and have them do the work. Sorry for the rant, frustration makes me frustrated
Hve you checked the TPS voltage? the IAC? What brand is the t-body? are there any cables "hanging" up?
I would check these first, the reason I mentioned the "what t-body" is that every bbk,accufab one I have seen my buds use has had some kind of problem mostly junk blade rods that corrode(sp?) and hang up, and you have to swap your sensors over your self with any non-ford t-body that means someone else had to put them on and they may not be set right, or even bad.
I know this is kinda weird but check the return spring on the throttle, i too had tried everything and to me it seemed like at low speeds only it would do it if i shifted at 2k it would rev up a few hundred rpms, shift at 3500+ and it drops right away, seemed like the throttle plate was not returning to closed fast enough when i let off the gas, new spring and it worked like a champ, just my two cents on something east to check before you get out the BFH good luck Dan
I had this same problem, but I cured it today. I followed THIS and now my hanging idle is cured. When I would start my car, the idle would shoot up to 1700, the very very slowly go back to ~650 rpm's. When I was driving, I would go to 2500 rpm's in first gear, then I would press the clutch, and the rpm's would shoot up 3-400 rpm's, then slowly go back down.
Now, it takes 1 & 3/4 turns to close the screw on top of the throttle body. Before it was around 4 & 1/2 to close. I did have to screw my throttle stop screw down at least 3-4 full turns past point of when a .010 feeler gauge would go between the screw and the TB stop arm.
mine does the same thing w/ the idel jumping up about 300 RPMS or so after I shift, seems like when I do a nice smooth shift and when I depress the clutch the Idel will jump up about 300 RPM's. I always wonderded what was causing that. I figured it was normal
With those mods you should not need a custom chip to get a decent idle. Do you still have the stock cam? If so then there is something else causing this problem. I have a feeling it is either you dont have the tps set right, the base idle is set wrong, or that damn C&L is screwing you up.
A chip can change the rev-down rate of the IAC. But if the idle settings are wrong, you will probably still experience the "hanging idle" still.
I literally just fixed my problem by following the link I made above. Just make sure the screw on top of the TB takes less than 2 turns to completely close. Once I got mine under 2 turns, everything was fixed.
I had the same thing happening to mine when I went to the larger FMS 65mm TB. I swapped out the IAC with the one that came on my car stock, and I have not had a problem since then. Have you removed the IAC and cleaned it out?? Mine was really dirty. Try that, but make sure the gasket is still good, you dont want air leaks there! I was going crazy too - try swapping YOUR IAC with one from a car that you know runs fine ... you will probably be relieved! Try it!