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Setting the Base Idle

  • Thread starter Thread starter SFC_R0CK
  • Start date Start date Jan 15, 2009
S

SFC_R0CK

Member
Oct 30, 2008
81
0
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Jan 15, 2009
#1
  • Jan 15, 2009
  • #1
Trying to make final adjustments to my 89 notch mods in signature. Pulled all codes and got code 11. I know the base idle is off because before when I was having problems I made adjustments to the idle screw. I read through the idle surge checklist and was attempting to reset the base idle. When I unplugged the IAC and had the spout disconnected the car surges from about 650-1000 rpms. I know all sensors check out, no vaccum leaks found, base timing is 12 degrees. TPS is set at .98. I cleaned the IAC. With the IAC hooked up it idles at 950-1000 rpm with no surge.
 

strtrcr50

New Member
Jun 21, 2006
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4
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Previously from Dirty Jerzey exit 7a
Jan 16, 2009
#2
  • Jan 16, 2009
  • #2
I don't think the car CAN surge with the IAC and spout connector disconnected. It surges by playing with the idle speed(IAC) and timing(spout). With the computer unable to control either, there is nothing to make it surge.
 

hotcobra03

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
969
4
39
poteet,tx
Jan 16, 2009
#3
  • Jan 16, 2009
  • #3
sfc rock

when you idle starts surging, what is you fuel pressure doing?and did you watch the timing while it is surging,does that change with rpms?
 
S

SFC_R0CK

Member
Oct 30, 2008
81
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Jan 16, 2009
#4
  • Jan 16, 2009
  • #4
I will check the fuel pressure and timing to see what it does when I get home this afternoon and post the results as soon I get them.
 
S

SFC_R0CK

Member
Oct 30, 2008
81
0
7
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Jan 16, 2009
#5
  • Jan 16, 2009
  • #5
Ok I unplugged the IAC and spout hooked up my timing light started the car and it proceeded to surge from about 650-1000 rpms. I checked the timing it stayed at 12 degrees, fuel pressure stayed at 39 psi with vac line attached then after a couple of minutes it just smoothed out and stayed smooth. I was able to adjust the manual screw down to about 650 without anymore surging issues weird *****. I did not do anything different today than I did yesterday. Plugged everything back in, reset the computer and it idles right about 750-850 rpms and sounds so much better. It even made the whistling noise I had quieter also. Thanks guys.
 

hotcobra03

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
969
4
39
poteet,tx
Jan 16, 2009
#6
  • Jan 16, 2009
  • #6
thats cool

have this anyway rock..i remember some of the codes from before your troubles with 67...this is for no code checklist and injectors are in thier..i was gonna next sugest a c.b.t. test but now your ok...save thChart 1
Starting Concerns: Stalls After Start
Stalls/Quits: Idle, Acceleration, Cruise
Runs Rough
Misses
Buck/Jerk
Hesitation/Stumble
Surge
Unique Idle concerns: Rolling Idle
Note: For stalls on passenger car applications, engine may stall if left running while refueling. Advise customer to turn engine off while refueling to avoid contamination or damage to the EVAP system.



SYSTEM/COMPONENT REFERENCE (Section 5 Pinpoint Test unless noted)
Check The Following PIDs:
DPFEGR (if equipped) (hot idle value within 0.15V of KOEO value)
LONGFT1 / LONGFT2 (value between -20 and +20)
VPWR (value between 10.5 and 17.0 volts, and within 0.5 volts of battery voltage)
DPFEGR PID value not within 0.15V of KOEO value:
For vehicles equipped with ESM EGR: GO to HH33
All others: GO to HE100
LONGFT1 / LONGFT2 value low (-):
Continue diagnosis.
Concentrate checks in areas that would cause the engine to run rich.
LONGFT1 / LONGFT2 value high (+):
Continue diagnosis.
Concentrate checks in areas that would cause the engine to run lean.
VPWR not between 10.5 and 17.0 volts:
Go to the Workshop Manual, Charging System Section 414.
VPWR between 10.5 and 17.0 volts, but not within 0.5 of battery voltage:
CHECK B(+) supply to PCM power relay (or CCRM). CHECK VPWR circuit between PCM and PCM power relay or CCRM. CHECK PWR GND circuits.

For vehicles that run rough at idle:
With the key on, engine off, check the INJxF PIDs (the "x" indicates the injector number, there will be one INJxF PID for each engine cylinder). All INJxF PIDs must indicate no fault (or NO).
INJxF PID(s) indicate a fault (an injector circuit fault is indicated):
Natural Gas applications:
GO to HA60
All others:
GO to H56

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
GO to DC25

Secondary Ignition System
GO to JB1

Fuel Delivery System
Natural Gas Applications:
GO to HB1
All Others:
GO to HC1

Exhaust System
GO to HF1

PCV System
For 4.6L Mustang, Aviator:
GO to HG1
All Others:
GO to HG4

Natural Gas applications with rough idle:
Injector circuits between NG module and injectors.
GO to HA57

EVAP System
Check for EVAP system blockages (engine stalls) or leaks (other symptoms). REFER to Evaporative Emissions, Section 303 in the Workshop Manual (Section 310 for LS, Thunderbird, Explorer, Aviator and Blackwood).

Automatic Transmission
Automatic Transaxle/Transmission - Section 307 of the Workshop Manual

Base Engine
Engine System - General Information, Section 303 of the Workshop Manual

Intake Air System
GO to HU1

Applications with A/C Pressure Sensor (3 wire sensor):
A/C pressure (ACP) sensor input to PCM
GO to DS22

Additional Testing
GO to Z1

Additional Checks:
NOTE: Some applications have a PID that will indicate whether the PCM is reducing torque (TQ_CNTL)(#095E b0), and if so, why the torque is being reduced (#095Eb1-13) (0 = No torque reduction requested; 1 = Torque Truncation. Cuts fuel to protect when line pressure fails to minimum limit; 2 = Traction Control Event. Cuts fuel and/or spark for traction control; 3 = Vehicle Speed Limit - Cuts fuel).

Correct PCM vehicle identification (VID) block information (refer to Section 2, Flash Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM)
Be aware of engine RPM/speed limiting functions of the PCM (look for incorrect high vehicle speed signal from ABS, VSS or OSS)
Verify fuel cap is properly tightened, and not physically damaged.
Drivelines
Manual transmission/clutch
Charging System
Traction control system (if equipped)
A/C system (for surge with A/C on)
Speed control system (for surge with speed control on)
A/C compressor diode, if equipped (for rolling idle)
Applicable section in Workshop Manual.

is list
 
S

SFC_R0CK

Member
Oct 30, 2008
81
0
7
AL
Jan 16, 2009
#7
  • Jan 16, 2009
  • #7
Thanks hotcobra03, I am trying to fine tune every little thing I can tonight and tomorrow because one of the local parts stores is having a dyno trailer tomorrow night and I want to take it up make a couple pulls just to see what it does.
 

hotcobra03

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
969
4
39
poteet,tx
Jan 16, 2009
#8
  • Jan 16, 2009
  • #8
after the dyno

let me know how your car did..my buddy just picked up an 01 lightening today ,,i will be now adding this to my troubles,,
 
T

thebullschmidt

New Member
Dec 12, 2008
65
0
0
Jan 18, 2009
#9
  • Jan 18, 2009
  • #9
while yall are on the subject i was having the same problem when i switched cam and heads. i cant get the idle to quit surging even with the spout and the iac unplugged. i think i may have a bad tps sensor because the car jerks really bad when im cruiseing. i also can set it right i can only get .93 volts out of it. any suggestions?
 
S

SFC_R0CK

Member
Oct 30, 2008
81
0
7
AL
Jan 18, 2009
#10
  • Jan 18, 2009
  • #10
thebullschmidt said:
while yall are on the subject i was having the same problem when i switched cam and heads. i cant get the idle to quit surging even with the spout and the iac unplugged. i think i may have a bad tps sensor because the car jerks really bad when im cruiseing. i also can set it right i can only get .93 volts out of it. any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Try following the info in this thread. jrichker has posted some very good information there. My problem just happened to be a fluke or a mistake of my own but I was following that thread.

http://forums.stangnet.com/698148-help-me-create-surging-idle-checklist.html
 
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