Setup Help

[whitesqual]

Well, Here we are nearing the end of summer and my car still has not returned from the painter. My original plan was to get the car running with the FMU, 30lb injectors and the 9 lb pulley on the p1sc for the rest of the season. I am slowly coming to the realization that there isn't going to be a "rest of the season". So I want to start working towards the final plan. I want to shoot for 475-500 rwhp. First off I am not going to be tuning on my own, nor do I want to. Also will be running 91 octane. So right now I am looking at getting a blow through maf and bigger injectors.

Would a lightning 80mm and 42lb injectors be adequate?
If not what would be my best bet?
How small of a pulley can I run before I start getting belt slip with my 6 rib set up?
Is there a way to run a an 8 rib setup without sacrificing a/c?
Will it be possible to reach my goal with the explorer intake and gt40's?
What other Items would be needed to reach my goals. My setup is in my sig.

I have done lots of research on these issues, so please hold the "use the search button comments".

 

[turbogt]

You would have to be seeing upwards of 16-18# of boost with non-ported GT40's to make those numbers at the wheels..

 

[xr8d302]

I would have your lower ported and grab a set of AFR heads instead of your GT40's. A custom ground cam to compliment those will give you all the extra help you need. I think the 42's and 80mm MAF will be suffice, but could be wrong. I have seen higher power applications with the same fuel systems though

 

[whitesqual]

You would have to be seeing upwards of 16-18# of boost with non-ported GT40's to make those numbers at the wheels..

So, Is this possible with stock heads? A 3.0 pulley : 6.5/3.0x4.1x5500=48858.33

I believe that the 3.0 inch pulley would make over 18lbs and a 3.2 should see around 16lbs from what I have read. I have also read that if I go much smaller than a 3.2 I will start seeing belt slip. Should I run a slightly bigger crank pulley to get my boost up and prevent belt slip? So would I need to run meth inj on top of my 3 core cooler to run this amount of boost on 91? If I could get away without using meth, that would be great. What would I need to support this level of boost?

 

[final5-0]

opcorn: Grady opcorn:

 

[whitesqual]

What ignition would be recommended? what Box, Coil, Wires?
What gauges would be recommended? Want to keep it to 4. I was thinking Wideband (innovate), Boost, Fuel pressure, and temp or oil pressure.

 

[nmcgrawj]

What ignition would be recommended? what Box, Coil, Wires?
What gauges would be recommended? Want to keep it to 4. I was thinking Wideband (innovate), Boost, Fuel pressure, and temp or oil pressure.

How were u going to do a fuel pressure gauge? Mechanical? The electric ones are really expensive...arent they? (havent looked at gauges in a long time)


I would definitely have the wideband, boost, and coolant temp. Oil pressure vs. fuel pressure is a toss up....(price might make the decision for u lol)

 

[whitesqual]

yeah looks like 200 for the electric and 50 for the mechanical. I might just get a mechanical. Anything wrong with the mechanical gauges?

 

[whitesqual]

So will the lightning maf work in a blow through setup? If not what would be recomended?


Come on peeps! I have lots of questions and not many answers!

 

[whitesqual]

anyone try one of these impellers in their p1?

 

[nmcgrawj]

yeah looks like 200 for the electric and 50 for the mechanical. I might just get a mechanical. Anything wrong with the mechanical gauges?

I didnt feel the need for a fuel pressure gauge. I didnt want to spend the money for electric...and didnt feel like mounting a gauge on my cowl.

Mechanical = running a tube inside that carries the fluid. I think i read that the fuel pressure ones dont run the fuel all the way inside, but instead us a different fluid? I dunno...you'll have to read up on it. The only mechanical gauge i run is a boost/vacuum.


I did consider running a braided line to my cowl and mounting a gauge outside....i just never did it. With a wideband....you know if you're good or not. And with a wideband + fuel pressure, if something goes wrong, its too late to save it. And if u need to trouble shoot, then u can simply mock something up.


Anyway, in the end, i dont see fuel pressure being absolutely necessary to see from inside while driving....that money can be put elsewhere.

 

[whitesqual]

I didnt feel the need for a fuel pressure gauge. I didnt want to spend the money for electric...and didnt feel like mounting a gauge on my cowl.

Mechanical = running a tube inside that carries the fluid. I think i read that the fuel pressure ones dont run the fuel all the way inside, but instead us a different fluid? I dunno...you'll have to read up on it. The only mechanical gauge i run is a boost/vacuum.


I did consider running a braided line to my cowl and mounting a gauge outside....i just never did it. With a wideband....you know if you're good or not. And with a wideband + fuel pressure, if something goes wrong, its too late to save it. And if u need to trouble shoot, then u can simply mock something up.


Anyway, in the end, i dont see fuel pressure being absolutely necessary to see from inside while driving....that money can be put elsewhere.

sounds good, I think Ill go with oil pressure, temp, wideband, and boost.















anyone else got any advice for me. Lots of unanswered questions still.

 

[turbogt]

I didnt feel the need for a fuel pressure gauge. I didnt want to spend the money for electric...and didnt feel like mounting a gauge on my cowl.

Mechanical = running a tube inside that carries the fluid. I think i read that the fuel pressure ones dont run the fuel all the way inside, but instead us a different fluid? I dunno...you'll have to read up on it. The only mechanical gauge i run is a boost/vacuum.


I did consider running a braided line to my cowl and mounting a gauge outside....i just never did it. With a wideband....you know if you're good or not. And with a wideband + fuel pressure, if something goes wrong, its too late to save it. And if u need to trouble shoot, then u can simply mock something up.


Anyway, in the end, i dont see fuel pressure being absolutely necessary to see from inside while driving....that money can be put elsewhere.

Autometer sells a $100 isolator that you put antifreeze in to use a mechanical fuel pressure gauge inside.. Its a joke... I have one, but will just buy an electric fuel pressure gauge instead..


If you have a wideband, the fuel pressure gauge isn't as critical anymore, but not a bad idea nonetheless..

I have Boost/Vacuum, Innovate Wideband, and Fuel Pressure in my triple pillar pod..

I also bought Electric Oil Pressure and Electric water temp for the instrument cluster bezel, but haven't installed them..

 

[whitesqual]

I am going to get the cluster bezel and the clock pod. Not sure what I am gona put where yet. Any recommendations as far as placement goes?

Probably gona put wideband and boost in cluster bezel, and put oil pres. and water temp in clock pod.

 

[nmcgrawj]

I am going to get the cluster bezel and the clock pod. Not sure what I am gona put where yet. Any recommendations as far as placement goes?

Probably gona put wideband and boost in cluster bezel, and put oil pres. and water temp in clock pod.

Placement is always tricky....they all have their benefits. On the cluster u can see your tach to go with the boost/wideband. But that makes u look down farther, than if u were to just glance to the right and see them in the clock pod (but u lose the quick RPM glance).


In the end i dont think it matters much.

 

[whitesqual]

Anyone run a meth kit with an intercooler? I am thinking about getting an ais stage two kit to complement my setup to reach my goal.