Several Questions, Help Pretty Please

[magnj]

Hey guys, I recently got a 90 5.0 LX, has some issues. I was wondering if any of you could help out with some questions I hate...In no particular order...

1. The owner said they were about to put new valve cover gaskets on. They said this was common and easy to do yourself. I'm wondering why it would need new gaskets, how I can tell if it does and if I can do it myself.
2. Airbag light is flashing, but I don;t think its a code it's a persistent on and off. She said it had an after market wheel, she got a factory wheel so that she could have the airbag but never got to installing the clock spring. The horn also doesn't work , they said the clock spring would fix this as well? My question is, does this sound legit, how much for a clock spring(I was told a lot of places wont do it) and how much should I pay for one?
3. I faild inspection for rear brakes of all things, o nthe little graphical print out they gave me I have literally no braking power in the rear. Could this be just shoes or do I need the whole shebang and can I do both myself.
4. When I start it some times it stalls out within like 3 seconds. I think it's related to an electrical issue....how many volts should the guage read on start up and how long should it take to climb back to 12? He put in an electric fan and msd ignition but not an alternator, could this be an issue
5. Sometime when I pull away after being parked I hear/feel a popping come from what I think is the rear end. It's not exhaust it feels more like the e-brake sticking...could this be possible, is it related to bad rear brakes, or am I a moron?

That should keep you busy for a while lol. Thanks in advance.

 

[bill302]

valve cover gaskets if there leaking they need replacing,if there leaking you will smell oil burning under the hood after a long run and/or you will have oil buildup between headers and valve covers and /or have oil on intake near valve covers just look and see...

clock spring sounds legit...Error code 32 is the most common air bag problem. Chances are it's a bad clock spring. Very easy to replace. Get a NEW one from Ford. They are not that expensive (less than $50?). Do NOT waste your time or money getting a used one from the junk yard that may break soon. The clock spring connects the turning steering wheel to your stationary steering column. So, over time, they have a tendency to break.
To replace: just disconnect the battery, yank the air bag, replace the clock spring, put it back together. Get a NEW clock spring from Ford. I think they are still under $50. To remove the air bag,

you will need to inspect the rear brake you may just need shoes...heres some good info. click on link below...
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/89378_brakes_technical_info/index.html

yes this could cause a problem especially if the fan is straight wires to turn on with key on...you will need a 3g upgrade click on first link below for instructions....also you may need a tune up and some minor adjustments and cleaning you also need to pull codes to see if you have any check engine light issues click on second link and read all info...some good stuff in there.
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/130a-tech.html
http://www.muscularmustangs.com/maintain.php

need to locate where the popping is coming from could be u-joints,brakes,traction lok..ect....i would prolly bet u-joints does it clink everytime you back up?

This should keep you busy for a while... lol

 

[873Stang]

Hey guys, I recently got a 90 5.0 LX, has some issues. I was wondering if any of you could help out with some questions I hate...In no particular order...

1. The owner said they were about to put new valve cover gaskets on. They said this was common and easy to do yourself. I'm wondering why it would need new gaskets, how I can tell if it does and if I can do it myself.
2. Airbag light is flashing, but I don;t think its a code it's a persistent on and off. She said it had an after market wheel, she got a factory wheel so that she could have the airbag but never got to installing the clock spring. The horn also doesn't work , they said the clock spring would fix this as well? My question is, does this sound legit, how much for a clock spring(I was told a lot of places wont do it) and how much should I pay for one?
3. I faild inspection for rear brakes of all things, o nthe little graphical print out they gave me I have literally no braking power in the rear. Could this be just shoes or do I need the whole shebang and can I do both myself.
4. When I start it some times it stalls out within like 3 seconds. I think it's related to an electrical issue....how many volts should the guage read on start up and how long should it take to climb back to 12? He put in an electric fan and msd ignition but not an alternator, could this be an issue
5. Sometime when I pull away after being parked I hear/feel a popping come from what I think is the rear end. It's not exhaust it feels more like the e-brake sticking...could this be possible, is it related to bad rear brakes, or am I a moron?

That should keep you busy for a while lol. Thanks in advance.

ok well your rear brakes, i would do the whole thing! more then likely you wheel cylenders are bad! you can tell by if theres brake fluid on them, if not then just replace the shoes, becareful when removing and installing mosty installing the new shoes on not ripping the rubber seal on the wheel cyl, and then bleed then best bet, i sure the fluid never beend chaned so i would put all new fluid in the brake system, and that noise you hear in the back is more then likely the rear brakes.

the stalling issue could be a bad/dirty iac (idle air control) or tps( throttle position sensor) use a volt meter to check your tps tap into the green wire with the pos lead and ground the other lead with the key on engine off it sould read .98- 1.00 best to run at .98 then take off th iac use carb cleaner to clean it , my not start up right away but it will.

valve cover gaskets, well passenger side is easy driver side you have to take the intake off, you can tell if there bad by looking at he bottom of the valve cover if yo see oil or sludge or oilly dirt i would change them, run the car tell norm opperating temp them look at them gaskets you want to do a star patter when bolting it down, and dont get them too tight run the car or drive it for a day or two then go back and check them and see if they need to be tighten any more best bet is to get rubber gaskets but thats my opinion. good luck hope this help cuz now its pass my bed time .......... lol just kidding

 

[magnj]

Thank you guys, lots of great info. I'll get on it this weekend.

Ordering Clock Spring, Checking brakes for fluid where you said then either ordering shoes or going to STS and then checking for oil for the valve covers.

How much will a shop charge me to pull codes as well?

 

[stykthyn]

most part stores will pull codes for free

 

[cobra1923]

Most chain auto stores will do for free.. Aotozone, Pep Boys, Advance.. etc

 

[magnj]

sweet deal...I live next door to one

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[magnj]

Thanks

 

[5spd GT]

Your car could be stalling out due to a dirty intake air control valve. It is bolted to the side of your throttle body, in a cylinder form. Unbolting the two small bolts and unplugging it, you can spray inside it with lots of carb cleaner.

I had that problem, and it fixed it for quite sometime, until it got clogged up again...

 

[magnj]

Ok, I'll have to check that valve tomorrow, because I stalled on the highway tonight. Started up ok after 2 tries but we had been in traffic a lot. I also have to see what fan this guy put on and how it is wired cause I don't know if its working right.

I think I need a 3g alt at least, maybe a new fan.
Getting the brakes looked at by a local mechanic who is good to me, says I might just need a drag adjustment, maybe new shoes but doubts I need everything. I mentioned that I kinda wanted to get new brake fluid but he made it seem like it wasn't necessary.

 

[magnj]

Ok died again 2 times on a short 10 mile trip.
Once while in 5th, hesitated, let of gas. Hit gas gain, hesitation and jerkiness, I pulled over and it died before I could stop.
Turned over just fine and I drove another five miles before it did the same exact thing and then died again. Finished the trip now it's sitting out front but idk wtf is wrong with it. I have a feeling the alternator w/ this fan is the problem. It also MAY have under drives, how can I tell this?

 

[magnj]

Here are 10 pics, I can take more if you need them. I'm wondering if I have UD pullies, if its the stock alt, if my wiring is bad etc. Also my rad fluid seems low, I see the full hot line but I checked it when I got out and I couldn't see any when I popped the cap but my gauges never showed me overheating. But I'm wondering if that thermostat in the one pic is hooked up right, to me it looks a little junky but I'm no mechanic.

View attachment 361197
View attachment 361199
View attachment 361201
View attachment 361203
View attachment 361205
View attachment 361207
View attachment 361209
View attachment 361211
View attachment 361213

 

[lang williams]

you might buy a little time on the valve covers by tightening them down, mine always came loose. get the rubber/metal gaskets! they rock an last for ever. you might get lucky with the rear brakes an be able to adjust them to get it through an inspection.

 

[magnj]

The car came with Felpro Rubber gaskets, will those do ok?

I plan on getting the brakes done this weekend. I'm gonna have done whatever I need, I know I could probably skate by with an adjustment but I'd rather do it once ya know.

Then the weekend after that I'll try to do the alt and valve cover gaskets I guess. Would the 130amp 3g be good enough, I don't plan on adding a system or anything. That and I guess I should check the wiring first he might have it all crazy.

There is also some ridiculous horn installed which is gonna get removed soon and I'm trying to get a hold of a clock spring.

That and I'm waiting for insurance to come through for body work and a new tail light. Such bad luck with this one so far.

 

[5spd GT]

The rubber gaskets should be fine as long as they are not 'squished' out from the lip that they sit on, on the heads.

Yeah, that is the idle air control valve

Your thermostat is actually located going into the lower intake. Just follow your upper radiator hose to the engine, and it goes into the water neck, held on by two bolts. That is where your thermostat is. It doesn't seem to me, that it is an issue.

Doesn't the stock radiator overflow tank have a Full Cold line as well? Try filling it up to there, if it already isn't.

I can't really tell if they are overdrive or underdrive pullies from those pics.

It is real common for the stock alternator not to keep up with the charge that a car needs. Check out www.paperformance.com and get a 3g 130 amp alternator with a premium wire kit. It comes with great instructions on how to change it out.

It looks like you have a Black Magic Fan, I have one, and I hate it

 

[magnj]

The rubber gaskets should be fine as long as they are not 'squished' out from the lip that they sit on, on the heads.
Ok, I still have to check if there is oil on the bottom or not, I don't want to do it if I don't have to

Yeah, that is the idle air control valve
Ok, definitely gonna get some carb cleaner and attack that thing as soon as I can

Your thermostat is actually located going into the lower intake. Just follow your upper radiator hose to the engine, and it goes into the water neck, held on by two bolts. That is where your thermostat is. It doesn't seem to me, that it is an issue.
yea I'm dumb lol. I was referring o that little metal bit sticking out of the rad with the thin tube connected to it. I guess maybe that's just a sensor for the fan? At any rate does whatever that thing do look correct?

Doesn't the stock radiator overflow tank have a Full Cold line as well? Try filling it up to there, if it already isn't.
Okie

I can't really tell if they are overdrive or underdrive pullies from those pics.
Alright, would better pics help or is that something that would be pretty hard to determine

It is real common for the stock alternator not to keep up with the charge that a car needs. Check out www.paperformance.com and get a 3g 130 amp alternator with a premium wire kit. It comes with great instructions on how to change it out.
Thats what I figured as a soon as I saw the electric fan. I'm guessing they never drove it much and for short trips it seems to do just fine, its when I sit in traffic or drive for 2+ hours that it acts up. However today was like a 15 minute drive so idk I'm really hoping it's nothing major

It looks like you have a Black Magic Fan, I have one, and I hate it
is that worth replacing> I've read about it before, and the response is generally bad. would the Lincoln fan be better?

Thank you Thank you Thank you

My list of things to do is so long. AC is dead and I'm sure as hell not paying 700+labor for a conversion so thats gonna come out, new hatch shocks, I have to polish the wheels because some knuckle head decided to paint them red and its chipping, the wiring is a mess and I want to hide it but I guess I have to fix it first.

It's either gonna be a long winter/spring or It's gonna end up with a for sale sign

 

[Bottomlesspit]

magnj,
Hey there...hope you are getting things sorted out. I must say...we have a LOT in common. I took over my son's 92 hatch and it looks and acts very similar in a lot of respects. I am kicking myself to no end about letting my gorgeous 93 vert get away
We bought this car cheap for our son, but he left for college and this car wasn't going with him!
I was thinking about your engine dying on you. Have you replaced your fuel filter? It is located underneath the rear...up in front of the fuel tank...round can held in by a clamp near the floor of the car. IF this filter gets clogged, or you have enough gunk in your fuel lines, you can end up with a dying motor just like you describe. What happens is as you drive along the sediment in the tank/and or fuel filter gets stirred up and ends up clogging up the filter outlet. Once you stop and the fuel crud settles, fuel is available and the motor runs...until it cloggs the outlet again.
You might check the filter for this. The worst case is if contaminates have made it past the filter and up to the injectors. The injectors also have a tiny filter and then it becomes a more major problem. Some good gas treatment might be in order too. There's no telling what could be in the gas tank or lines?

Yeah, this GT also came with some kind of electric fan that some 10yr old kid must have wired in. It was awful and one of the first things we yanked. We got a fan shroud, fan clutch, and fan blade from LRS and it has worked great since. The electric fan didn't cool anywhere close to how the stock type fan setup does now.
Good luck...just take your time and enjoy your car.
Ken

PS: I know all about the wiring issues. I spent one whole week cleaning up the engine bay wiring. Traced all the wires, fixed/repaired connectors, covered bare wires....etc.
Laced all new split loom covering for the wire bundles, tied everything up nice and tight and it looks and works a thousand times better. Next comes the interior...ugggg!?! The pix should give you an idea...that's just the coil area! One thing I do is I run all wiring around the shock towers instead of over them...easy to do and looks a lot better. The hood latch cable gets pulled through inside the fender, so it's not visible.
Ken

 

[5spd GT]

Thank you Thank you Thank you

My list of things to do is so long. AC is dead and I'm sure as hell not paying 700+labor for a conversion so thats gonna come out, new hatch shocks, I have to polish the wheels because some knuckle head decided to paint them red and its chipping, the wiring is a mess and I want to hide it but I guess I have to fix it first.

It's either gonna be a long winter/spring or It's gonna end up with a for sale sign

A user by the name of jrichker on here has a very helpful write-up on doing a R134a conversion cheaply. Try doing a search for his name. Luckily it is about to get cooler in every area as we all approach winter, so maybe you can hold off on the air conditioner issue for a while.

Yeah, a Lincoln Mark VIII fan flows a lot of cfm, something like 3500-4000 cfm With a fan that big, you need to get a larger alternator, like the 130 amp one I mentioned earlier.

I have underdrive pullies, and it has been so long, I can't recall what stock ones look like, or how much they differ from mine. It has been a while since I have seen a stock 5.0L.

That black cap that goes into your light yellowish overflow tank, with the tube that goes all the way in, is your coolant sensor. It is supposed to tell you if your coolant is to low, if I recall.

Changing your valve cover gaskets is pretty straight forward. You remove the upper intake and air tubbing then remove valve covers and put new ones on. There is no adjusting anything, just remove and replace But your right, if you do not need to do it, don't

I'm not helping you to much, I wish I could be more specific for you, but atleast I'm giving you a bump and someone else can help.

 

[magnj]

Ok, got the brakes done, picking it up this evening. They said it needed everything, not sure what that means...I guess I'll find out when I get the bill. They said they think the stalling issue is from an exhaust leak, but to find it would be a lot of labor. Does this sound right, and if so wtf do I do. I really wish I had a garage, at school my only free time is the evening and I can't see **** then.