For the record, I didn't say the OP's solution is a stiffer rear swaybar. That was part of the solution in my old Civic, but since it was front wheel drive it needed the rear to slip more than would be practical or helpful in a RWD car. In the OP's case, better tires and a softer front bar would be more helpful, IMHO.
I can't say his driving is a factor since I don't know what he is doing inside the car. But I do know that improper use of braking and gas will exacerbate any tendency to understeer at the start of a turn. One needs to use the brake to transfer weight to the front immediately prior to a sharp turn in otherwise obscene plowing occurs. This is related to mass distribution, but hardly specific to Mustangs. Poor technique will lead to a conviction the car is a pig. Good technique will allow better response and control.
I'm inclined to agree that practice and technique are the most powerful tools that are brought to any driving scenario.
That being said, with the nose planted firmly into the ground, the car plows forward on the tires, whether it was me driving, or the instructor driving my car. The goal of this thread was to learn the various things that affect a car while turning heavily and things that cause understeer, the result is that I've learned a lot of things.
I found this great write-up on mustang suspension that has really helped me understand what may be affecting my turning abilites:
Late Model Mustang Suspension Basics
What this has led me to believe is that the inherent "flaws" in the design of the front end of the car will promote understeer in a situation in which the front suspension is severely compressed as it effectively changes the camber of the front wheels. While being "front heavy" is not necessarily the reason why the car understeers, the overall mass of the motor will add to my inertia and further compress the springs, exacerbating the existing "flaw" in the design.
The SFC will limit the ability of the car to roll into the turn, which will create a better balancing effect between the front and the back of the car. Basically if the car can start to roll into the suspension a little at a time, it can build quickly as each little bit adds mass to the inertia of the turn. Whereas if the car is more rigid, there has to be enough momentum to "pull" up the full weight of the car, essentially helping it to become more "balanced".
So basically, you are both correct. A car with a balanced 50/50 curb weight isn't necessarily going to be a better handling car than one that is 60/40, but a car that has a stiffer frame is going to transfer weight in a more linear fashion, allowing for more consistent and predictable turning in a more
balanced fashion.
This is my take on it based on all the reading I've done in the last few days and my extremely limited experience actually driving that aggressively. I could be totally off, but it feels like is at least mostly right.
