Share Your Setup and Help with mine!

[bluevenom867]

As for installe,the only differance would be the headers and flywheel/flexplate.

 

[Dbeck002]

buy the 5.0.

Take it to a good shop and tell them you want to keep the block but prep it. Bore it to 306, tank it and just make them prep it good.

Then buy a good set of rods and pistons with an eagle crank.

Get a decent set of heads and a decent cam, nothing huge.

Slap a Vortech on there and run 12s for DD, at the track crank up the boost to 15 with a set of slicks and youre in 10s territory.

All this might run a bit over 5k but its a potent build.

Recap

Stock block prepped to 306 400-500
Forged internals/New bearings hardware 1500
Mid priced heads and cam 1200
Vortech - 2000
labor- varies

and get some axles while your doing this because your gonna break em with slicks.

Thats a 10 second ride.

 

[bluevenom867]

Can rebuilding the stock 302 have any pro's ... will it be reliable at 400+ RW hp ? will it eventually blow..

At the motor yes,at the rear wheel I wouldnt push it.

 

[bluevenom867]

dbeck002,you prices are a bit off.

The heads and and cam will run you more like $1600 and the blower is closer to $2600.

 

[Redeemedsoul]

buy the 5.0.

Take it to a good shop and tell them you want to keep the block but prep it. Bore it to 306, tank it and just make them prep it good.

Then buy a good set of rods and pistons with an eagle crank.

Get a decent set of heads and a decent cam, nothing huge.

Slap a Vortech on there and run 12s for DD, at the track crank up the boost to 15 with a set of slicks and youre in 10s territory.

All this might run a bit over 5k but its a potent build.

Recap

Stock block prepped to 306 400-500
Forged internals/New bearings hardware 1500
Mid priced heads and cam 1200
Vortech - 2000
labor- varies

and get some axles while your doing this because your gonna break em with slicks.

Thats a 10 second ride.

What is boring to 306? ...
Next what are good rods and pistons, crank?
What kind of heads and cams?
Can i do the normal exhaust, headers stuff?

What is H/C/I package...

I will be gutting interior and getting a good suspension...

Will the 306 be good for 400+ rwhp?

 

[bluevenom867]

Boring/honing is were they enlarge the cylinder bores to get a bigger piston in.alot of time,it usualy dont because the cylinder wall becomes worn out over time and boring it out will expose "fresh" metal again.

 

[bluevenom867]

On a 302,you will probably break the block befor you break the stock crank.So you dont need the forged crank,besides it also adds wieght.

 

[Redeemedsoul]

i dont like the whole making the stock bore any bigger... and for 5,500 id rather buy something new and reliable ... are frpp crate engines worth the money they ask? ... i was looking at them ... i have some time to decide what i want but i just need to kno if i should get a rolling chassis or get the whole car...

i think a rolling chassis would be the best option as long as it will work with an easy engine/tranny swap right?

 

[bluevenom867]

i think a rolling chassis would be the best option as long as it will work with an easy engine/tranny swap right?

There usually cheaper and you can do what you want with them.And as long as they got most of the interior and wire,etc. you can pretty much just focus on the motor/driveline/suspension.

 

[Redeemedsoul]

thats the only thing im worried about is the wires/ electrical things... like radiator battery stuff like that ... interior i will gut most of it anyways .. well gut the backseat and get a 4 point or 6 point roll cage.. would a rolling chassis be worth it then? and should i get a crate engine? or what engine would be good ... im looking at a 3-5,000 engine that will last so i can save money to get the tranny and the suspension upgraded..

 

[bluevenom867]

thats the only thing im worried about is the wires/ electrical things... like radiator battery stuff like that ... interior i will gut most of it anyways .. well gut the backseat and get a 4 point or 6 point roll cage.. would a rolling chassis be worth it then? and should i get a crate engine? or what engine would be good ... im looking at a 3-5,000 engine that will last so i can save money to get the tranny and the suspension upgraded..

Its really up to you on the rolling chassie.If you find a nice one,go for it

As for the motor,I would really ask around alittle about good mechine shops in you area and call a couple and see what they can do for you.I feel the 351W is the way to go,much stronger and cheap at the same time.Dont be worred about geting an over bored motor,there very common.

And check the paper/auto traders too.Thats were I found my 357 shortblock.

 

[Redeemedsoul]

do newspapers / auto traders really provide engines like that??

 

[bluevenom867]

do newspapers / auto traders really provide engines like that??

Yes.

And if not,you can usualy find the parts to build a good motor.

Also try bargain trader if you have it in your area.You can also go here:

www.racingjunk.com

And of course ebay has stuff.

But I would deffinitaly check your local papers/traders first.

You might score a good shortblock or set of heads,or maybe eveny a complete motor.

 

[txstang84]

...man you just had to bring up racingjunk didn't you...I could put my great-great grandkids in debt with that site...

 

[bluevenom867]

...man you just had to bring up racingjunk didn't you...I could put my great-great grandkids in debt with that site...

LOL,why you say that?

 

[Dbeck002]

dbeck002,you prices are a bit off.

The heads and and cam will run you more like $1600 and the blower is closer to $2600.

I was thinking maybe trickflows 1000 and a cam 200.

i always thought a simple vortech was 1899.00.

or maybe thats not the one capable of 15 psi although a friend just bought one and says it comes with the 15 psi pulley.


Anyway Redeemedsoul,

Sometimes a really old block is more preferred over a brand new stock one because its what we called "seasoned"

that means its been through thousands of heat cycles and stress cycles and survived so you know its a good block. A lot of pro drag racers look for seasoned blocks to refresh because they are generally strong (there is a limit though).

Boring out a block is very common and is actually advisable because you are removing old warped cylinder material and making fresh perfectly round bores.

If you look around you can build a really good supercharged 306 with barely used parts. Sometimes people sell a vortech after just a year of use. But dont rely on that. Have a plan in your head and if you come by a deal, check it out and go for it.

If i were you i would build the supercharged 306 because of its great streetability.
A small boosted engine is generally easier on gas and lots more fun because if you want more power, just crank up the boost!!


Oh and never buy a crate engine from just any source. If you get a crate engine make sure its a TRUSTWORTHY shop and that some guy named bubba wasnt smoking a cigarette over your engine while assembling it.

I think that if your gonna build an engine, use the stock block but just prep it really well. If you know you are gonna want more than high 10s (which is really fast as it is). get the 351 because it is stronger. Its up to you really.

I wanted to do the 351 route but i chose not to because the 5.0 has so much potential...

 

[Allforspeed]

there is a lot of big talk on here for a car that just wants strong 12's, all these combos here will get 12's but i have friends with nothin more than gears/exhaust/fewbolt ons and a 100 shot of nitrous or a 6 psi blower that rip 12's all day long and are super fun on the street,

i say just buy a clean 5.0 that is in super good shape with as low of miles as you can find, do the basics gears/exhaust/bolt ons maybe a intake manifold and slap a entry level blower on it or a 100 dry shot of nitrousand go terrorize the streets! these motors are the strongest engines i have ever hammered on! my last stang had 170K of hard miles and didn't use oil or anything! i couldn't break that thing when i tried! my car now has 130K and i spray it with a 100 shot of nitrous constantly on the street and it is strong and quiet with a smooth idle. i remember awhile back in one of the mustang magazine they had a 89 Gt with 140K on it with just exhaust pulleys and some other stuff it ran 12.8 on stock gears and street tires! geting a stock motored stang in the 12's is pretty easy, hundreds of people have been doing it since the 80's..........

if your going to build up the motor of a stang i recomend just buying one someone else has already built, probably save 10 grand that way.....

just my humble opinion

 

[Dbeck002]

Didnt you hear him say he wants it capable of 10s at the track?


Thats what the big deal is, 12s on the street for a 5.0 is ez. 10s is a different story.

 

[Redeemedsoul]

How much is a 351 block? ... Also say i get the 302 bored to 306 ... what pistons/ cams/ everything else would fit in it? (specifics would be extremely helpful) Thanks

 

[Redeemedsoul]

buying some1 else's project will be a reasonable option but i will not be able to know if it is reliably built/ will hold up

I kind of like the idea of starting with a rolling chassis even though I would be using alot of money to get it going ... i want to customize the interior/connectors..