Share Your Setup and Help with mine!

bluevenom867 said:
I think a decent built 357 (.03 over 351W) with aluminum heads and mild cam with like a vortech-S trim would be super reliable and make lots of power,while not getting to bad of gas milage cause you wont be in boost while just cruising.

Any motor that runs in the 12's though I think it would be wise to up-grade to a Tremec.Not that a T-5 can handle it,but it just better insurance and can take just about any other mods you can throw at it.

Course,it you wanted to do it cheap,I would look for a 351W with bout 10.5:1 compression ratrio,though in a solid flat tappet cam with,put some aluminum heads on (like Edelbrock victor jr.'s good price/hp ratio),and a 750 carb with a nitrous plate.


....My 302 with a small blower and standard mods goes mid 12's on radials and gets decent mileage....and is smog legal. You certainly don't need a 351, a carb, and a set of race heads.......
 
I would recommend buying a car that already has all the junk that you want. You'll save yourself a lot of money. Built 5.0's are a dime a dozen. All of these cost estimates that are being thrown around do not include $1000's in nickel and dime stuff like air meters, exhaust, fp regulators, tb's.....rockers, pushrods....clutch......
$8000 will buy you what your looking for already built. Heck- I'd sell my car for 8k. Think before you buy.
 
bluevenom867 said:
dbeck002,you prices are a bit off.

The heads and and cam will run you more like $1600 and the blower is closer to $2600.


:stupid: your not getting a 10 second car for "a little over 5,000" and 15lbs of boost on a stock block...a little risky for a dd if you ask me :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the info... The only reason i dont want to buy the car with everything already is if something brakes i would have no first hand experience on how to fix it ... Also buying other's moddifications may pose reliability problems for me later if they give me a P.O.S. motor/car that wasn't installed/machined correctly... but i see where your coming from..
 
As of right now i'm debating between boring to a 306 ... a .030 inch bore then putting like $4,000 into the engine to make it reliable .. or getting a good rebuild kit then applying a good stroker kit... but as of right now i dont know any good rebuild kits or where to get them ... the 331 or 347 stroker kit i also need to know where to get (website)... thats where im at lol =\ ... im also looking at a white 89 gt hatch for 2,800 with no body problems but it needs a new transmission supposedbly ... so lets see what happens...
 
If you want to run 12's do this: spray a 100 shot, gear, tires, few bolt-ons\free mods and a little weight reduc.

All of this could cost under $1200 if you buy a few used parts. It should be very reliable and get stock gas mileage if you buy a quality car. In the mean time, you can save your money, finialize your plans and look for good deals on used parts.

It's that easy.
 
If you just wanted 12's at the track this would be alot easier. Spend $500 on low mile explorer 5.0 , port heads and intake, install cam and valvesprings. That equals $1000 when its all back together. I gave $550 for mine with all accessories, ecm, tranny ect...

That leaves $4000 for a car and stuff to put that power to the ground. Spending every bit of that will be no prob.

Of course I'm a po' boy and I like to save money. I also know what reality is and don't want to set too high dollar of a goal.

The reason Explorers roll over is so cars can go faster cheaper.
 
those are very valid points but i would prefer of rebuilding or starting with a new block ... i will change the heads intake cam and valvesprings. thank you for the input.. it will def. be an option if im strapped for cash.