Sheared Bolt Help, Water pump bolt

[UMDSmith]

Okay gentlemen and occasion ladies, I have a small quandry.

I bought the March alternator kit and ac/delete kit. The ac kit went on no problem, power steering pump is in its lovely new home.


The problem arose on the last bolt for the march kit. The tensioner arm it uses supplies a new bolt to go into the center/top bolt of the water pump.

Apparently, the previous owner, when they put the new 5.0 motor in, used the original bolts, and there was heavy corrosion where the bolts went from the water pump to that housing. As a result the bolt sheered.

I need to know the BEST way to get the b ack half of that bolt out, without damaging everything else. The car is sitting, this has to be a home proiect, and I can NOT get a conventional drill in to so tight a spot.

I tried a dremel with a flex shaft today, and either my bits were the wrong ones, or it just doesnt have the torque (and too much rpm) to really dig it out?

Help please, need to get the car running. I'm sure someone else has busted as many knuckles as I have trying.

 

[wyominghotwheel]

you are going to have to go to the autoparts store and buy a drill bit and a bolt extractor........shouldn't be more then 10 bucks..........take the drill bit, and drill a little hole in the center of the bolt, then take the extractor, tap it in with a hammer and back the bolt out......if that doesn't work, you are going to have to drill in stages.....start with a little drill bit, drill a hole in the center, then step up to a larger drill bit, drill at the bolt........once the bolt is gone, buy a thread replacement set at your local autoparts store, think they are also around 10 to 20 bucks...........sorry to hear bout that friend........hotwheels of turborides.com

 

[Soupy]

Hey UMDSmith, I've been here many times. In addition to what Hotwheel said, consider this option. Removing a broken bolt is not always an easy task to accomplish, as you've just found out. BE PATIENT! Don't get frustrated and start hacking at it. Do you know if this broken bolt is hardened? You can test running by a file on the piece that broke off, assuming you still have it. If the file cuts it easily then proceed with a regular drill bit, if it does not you will need a carbide bit. If you don't wish to remove your radiator and every thing else to gain clearance for your conventional drill, go and get a 90 degree electric drill from the hardware store. If you still need a little more room and you can't choke-up on the bit anymore, cut the shank of the drill down, chamfer the cut edges so the drill spins on center. Take it slow, use penetrating lube and patience, you don't need to start a new thread asking how to remove a broken drill bit too. Good Luck.

 

[jrichker]

Here’s the parts list for the broken water pump bolts. Not cheap, but it will get you fixed and back on the road…

A word about the links, if they don’t work, do a search on the part number (P/N). MSC updates their catalog regularly, and the pages may change, but the part numbers don’t.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1078 Use drill bushing 5/16” OD, 5/32” ID, ¾” long, P/N 07010457, price $8.57 This centers the drill bit in the housing bolt hole so you don’t get off center and damage the water pump, timing cover housing or engine block


http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=23 drill bits - use 5/32” Cobalt/TiN coated bit. P/N 78530433, price $3.91

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1926 Screw/bolt extractors. Use EZY-OUT Screw Extractor P/N 63760037 Price $2.67


One step specialty item: See Drill-Out® Broken Bolt Extractors drill bushing, reverse twist drill & extractor all in one unit. Best to use when the bolt breaks off with the remaining part below the start of the threads. .P/N 05027164. Price $18.33 each. You MUST have a reversing drill motor (either air or electric) to use this bit. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1926

A long shank tap should be used to chase the leftover metal out of the original threads. Also recommended to clean the corrosion and dirt out of the threads before you reassemble everything. Cleaning the threads will help prevent the bolts from seizing next time (yes, there will be a next time).

Long shank 5/16” taps

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=275 5/16” pulley tap, 6” shank P/N 04801189 price $14.26

OR second choice, will not clean all the bottom threads unless you grind the end of the tap.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF extension tap, 6” reduced diameter shank P/N 04701181 $16.17

See http://www.windsorfox.com/detail.cfm?id=ENG-TBK for Stainless Steel Water Pump Bolts with Custom stainless steel studs. Allow the use of factory accessory brackets without hunting for obsolete parts or using spacers.

Kit comes complete with nine polished stainless 12 point bolts, four stainless studs and nine stainless oversized washers.

Price: $58.95

 

[jaymac]

I know this is an old thread, but I had to resuurect it to thank JRichker for all the great info (again). This is just what I needed and now I know exactly what to do!
The bolt that broke is a new grade 8 piece - does that make a difference??
Thanks again!