Shelby 1" drop vs 1 3/4" negative wedge drop

Opentracker · Jul 26, 2004

I got mine at a local store too. It was the only one they had.

I made a tool to bend the upper arm after the side cut.

I was using old ball joints and a long socket but the old cheap repo ball joints are junk and I broke a few. No worries now.

John

bnickel · Jul 26, 2004

hey john do you think sears will still warranty that socket if it breaks?

Opentracker · Aug 7, 2004

I made a brace like the ones for the '67-'68 arms for this prototype '65-'66 arm. This arm has also been modified to allow a 15" wheel with 5" of backspacing.

I took the snout off the front of the arm. My buddy said it looked like I was making upper ball joint coolers. I guess it would help cool the ball joint? It gives about 1/2" more room for the extra backspacing.

Again, this is a prototype arm. It may or may not make it onto a car. Any comments are welcome.

John

meanroy · Aug 7, 2004

Opentracker said:
I made a brace like the ones for the '67-'68 arms for this prototype '65-'66 arm. This arm has also been modified to allow a 15" wheel with 5" of backspacing.
...
I took the snout off the front of the arm. My buddy said it looked like I was making upper ball joint coolers. I guess it would help cool the ball joint? It gives about 1/2" more room for the extra backspacing.
...

Again, this is a prototype arm. It may or may not make it onto a car. Any comments are welcome.

John

Hi John,
Seems to me taking the lip off around the front will weaken it too much. Seems like it might tend to bend right behind the ball joint attachment area.

Or just leave the lip on, though bracing might be stronger.

Roy.

Opentracker · Aug 7, 2004

Roy,

I like that idea! This was going to be my next step. I was going to add this plate on the top to help hold ball joint in place. I would rather overbuild than take a chance on it failing. I may put them both on.

I shaved the side off like I did so the wheel would clear at full lock. I did mount this up to a spindle and put a wheel on, it should work with enouph bracing. Total cost so far: about $10 - for the steel and the time on the welder.

John

VictorII · Aug 7, 2004

Another idea is to box the arm and then use stiff anti-sway bars to severly curtail body roll. Almost eliminating roll will eliminate most of the initial problem of changing geometry. We want a little rol, but nowhere near what is it stock, it just isn't necessary. You can cut or clamp the coil springs to get the ride hight you want and use Stambar (adjustable) antiroll bars to tune the body roll. That's what I do. I have neg. wedge kit but haven't seen a reason to intall it. Might when I do the front end. I also bought extra, American made arms (better metal) so I can build them all up and then install them more quickly. On the other hand, I'm a tinkerer, so I might try the kit to and drop the rear to see how it all works.

bnickel · Aug 8, 2004

looks good john, i may have to do that to mine so i can get rid of the spacer on the front wheels. it's only a 1/4" spacer but i'd like to do away with it if possible

Opentracker · Aug 8, 2004

One comment I got was that the shaft area could use some support too, so I made this. The arm is looking like something I may do some road/track testing with.

John

bnickel · Aug 8, 2004

man i really gotta get a welder

67coupestang · Aug 9, 2004

wow great work!!! Just of of curiosity... im sure it wont make any effect, but how much does the re-braced arm weigh compared to a stock piece??

one2gamble · Aug 9, 2004

is there a shelby drop template somewhere or instructions on a website. My car is staying on the street but it still seems a good idea rather then going tubular or spending money on anything else since I cant fab anything up. Since its only 1inch there will be no binding correct>?

Opentracker · Aug 10, 2004

Just of of curiosity... im sure it wont make any effect, but how much does the re-braced arm weigh compared to a stock piece??

I will have to get the scale out and check. It is getting heavy. Not as heavy as a GW arm from what I can tell. GW arms are HEAVY!.

Since its only 1inch there will be no binding correct>?

A stock arm can be used with no problems. We do the 1" drop to all our cars.

A new photo of some more bracing and a comparo' shot of the cut and uncut area in front of the ball joint.

(edit)..................................................................................................................
I put the arms on a scale. The mod added 1.1lb to the arm. A bone stock arm with a shaft kit and no ball joint was 5.48lbs. Best I could tell from the weight of the braces the welding is 1/2lb.
.......................................................................................................................

John

Jester67 · Oct 15, 2004

So how is this going now, any new developments?

Route666 · Oct 15, 2004

Opentracker, I think you can stop now lol. I'm all for over-engineering something, but I think it's about as strong as it'll get, unless you substituted it for a solid one machined from a billet of steel

P.S. I want to know what's going on with it too.

65mistress · Oct 15, 2004

I'm so glad that I was referred to this forum by my club. You guys are a wealth of information and ideas.

John~
You are a metal forging superstud, keep it up, and may the Gods of metal fabrication smile down on you for a long time. BTW, I would be interested in a set of those templates if you still have some available.

Opentracker · Oct 23, 2004

I got done with the welding on the '67-68' arm (on right) and painted the '65-'66 arm that I modified to use a 15" wheel with 5" of backspacing. These arms are going on my '65 Ranchero project. I hope to get it in the garage soon.

John

bnickel · Oct 23, 2004

looks good as usual john. can't wait to see the 'chero project get started

Shelby 1" drop vs 1 3/4" negative wedge drop

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