she's just not all there, what could be the problem?

[cenok is family]

my car hasn't been running right lately, she doesn't pull as hard, and i'm trying to figure it out. a few things; i was messing with my timing yesterday and i bumped it up to about 18. my fuel pressure was high at 42psi so i dropped that back down to 38/39psi. it was weird though, i wanted to see how high i could go, and i could turn my distributor and advance my timing all the way past 20 and i never heard a single ping. i'm kinda nervous about it being where its at, i think i'm going to drop it back down to 16. advancing the timing/dropping my fuel press seemed to help a tad bit, but it's still not all there. i think my rockers backed out of proper adjustment a little. what do you guys think? i know i don't have any vacuum leaks, and pretty much EVERYTHING on my motor is brand new (aside from IAC which i need to replace, my car stalls when i press the clutch coming to a stop after she's warmed up ). i can smell gas so i'm pretty sure she's running rich. gas smell isnt as bad since i turning my fp down though. i still have my heads/cam, MSD and quite a bit of other stuff i still need to put on my car. if anything, when i tear it down to install all that, hopefully it'll fix the problem in the process.

 

[Foxfan88]

could run a compression test. if its a stock balancer it could have slipped and your timing could be way off.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.