I am going to purchase a shift kit for my '98 auto. Which one should I go with? and where do I get the best price? Any pros/cons?
Shift kits, what is better?
- Thread starter Mike98GT
- Start date
Blev
New Member
I'm debating myself on either the Trans'Go shift kit or doing the Jerry Mod. You can do a search on "Jerry Mod" to check out what it is. Only thing wrong with the Jerry Mod is that you physicaly alter your Valve Body. I myself don't fill comfortable doing that. Not to mention the fact I don't think to many shops know how to do it. So for a 98', (same year as mine) I'm gonna have to say the Trans'Go shift kit. It can be had for around 100 bucks. You can also go with a Superchips or Hypertech programmer to adjust your shift points as well as shift firmness. With the programmers your looking at around 300 bucks though. So I would say those are your choices do some research and see what you like best.
Good Luck!!
Good Luck!!
I did the Jerry Mod in my garage. Go to tccoa.com and go to trans tech area. They have step by step instructions. it is actually good for our trans.
I have only the 215hp 4.6 version and I get 15ft of rubber on WOT 1-2 shifts and crisp 2-3's. Staying below 2500rpm it is not noticable to a passenger. It will only cost you I believe about 50.00 in parts ( All Ford and Sears). On our 98 and back cars they had badly desinged Accumulator Piston which you need to change out. The old Aluminum one galls the Accumulator Cylinder walls and will eventually cause your car to shift slowly and slowly desintegrate it after 60k. Ford has the newer 99 & up version that you replace it with. Jerrys Mod is just not a shift kit but an education on our trans as well as long term fix that know one talks about.
Transgo does not do it the same way and I have read allot of stories about burned up transmissions whne using it. Jerry was a Ford engineer involved in the design of our trannys so you should feel safe with it. I have had it for almost a year wiht no problems. It has to give us at least 3-4 tenths 0-60 and probably in the 1/4 too.
You have options - I did the mild separator plate drilling (up to 300hp) and teh more aggressive Spring setup 1-2 Blue Spring no lower and 2-3 no springs. You will understand this afer you read the article. You can down load the specs and an actual picture of the plate and where to drill and what size. Get your bits from Sears. All Ford part numbers are also provided. It is very slick!!! Remember you have to drain the tranny( you should anyway if it has not been done at the 35k mark) . It is pretty dirty job and it will take ou the better part of 8 hours (my first time)but it is worth it!!! One tidbit that will help - Once you open the pan video tape yourself in segments so you can remember how it goes back together. One area such as the 21 bolts that hold the valve body on. Some of them are shorter so point to where they go on our video to make sure you put them back in the right holes.
I have only the 215hp 4.6 version and I get 15ft of rubber on WOT 1-2 shifts and crisp 2-3's. Staying below 2500rpm it is not noticable to a passenger. It will only cost you I believe about 50.00 in parts ( All Ford and Sears). On our 98 and back cars they had badly desinged Accumulator Piston which you need to change out. The old Aluminum one galls the Accumulator Cylinder walls and will eventually cause your car to shift slowly and slowly desintegrate it after 60k. Ford has the newer 99 & up version that you replace it with. Jerrys Mod is just not a shift kit but an education on our trans as well as long term fix that know one talks about.
Transgo does not do it the same way and I have read allot of stories about burned up transmissions whne using it. Jerry was a Ford engineer involved in the design of our trannys so you should feel safe with it. I have had it for almost a year wiht no problems. It has to give us at least 3-4 tenths 0-60 and probably in the 1/4 too.
You have options - I did the mild separator plate drilling (up to 300hp) and teh more aggressive Spring setup 1-2 Blue Spring no lower and 2-3 no springs. You will understand this afer you read the article. You can down load the specs and an actual picture of the plate and where to drill and what size. Get your bits from Sears. All Ford part numbers are also provided. It is very slick!!! Remember you have to drain the tranny( you should anyway if it has not been done at the 35k mark) . It is pretty dirty job and it will take ou the better part of 8 hours (my first time)but it is worth it!!! One tidbit that will help - Once you open the pan video tape yourself in segments so you can remember how it goes back together. One area such as the 21 bolts that hold the valve body on. Some of them are shorter so point to where they go on our video to make sure you put them back in the right holes.
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
Blev:
The Jerry mod just has you make a few holes larger in the separator plate. No holes are drilled in the valve body. The TransGo kit has you enlarge some holes in the separator plate AND change some valves and springs in the valve body, drill a hole in the valve body, and add some "stoppers" in the accumulator pistons. FWIW, I have a new, untouched TransGo kit sitting in my basement. Others have installed a TransGo kit in their cars and are completely satisfied. The J-mod is simpler and was 'invented' by a former Ford transmission engineer who helped design the 4R70W. I highly recommend the J-mod.
"Transmissions 101" in the Tech Articles\Transmissions section of TCCoA.com and the two "how-to" articles written by A-Train will tell you everything you need to know. (Please ignore the article on Shift Kits -- it is out of date/pre-dates the J-mod).
The J-mod is not difficult but you have to plan the job out (read, re-read, and read Chapters 13 and 14) and keep everything clean. You need a quality 'inch-pound' torque wrench, too, but you should have one anyway if you plan on working on your car! You will be tickled (a) with the results and (b) because you did it yourself.
The Jerry mod just has you make a few holes larger in the separator plate. No holes are drilled in the valve body. The TransGo kit has you enlarge some holes in the separator plate AND change some valves and springs in the valve body, drill a hole in the valve body, and add some "stoppers" in the accumulator pistons. FWIW, I have a new, untouched TransGo kit sitting in my basement. Others have installed a TransGo kit in their cars and are completely satisfied. The J-mod is simpler and was 'invented' by a former Ford transmission engineer who helped design the 4R70W. I highly recommend the J-mod.
"Transmissions 101" in the Tech Articles\Transmissions section of TCCoA.com and the two "how-to" articles written by A-Train will tell you everything you need to know. (Please ignore the article on Shift Kits -- it is out of date/pre-dates the J-mod).
The J-mod is not difficult but you have to plan the job out (read, re-read, and read Chapters 13 and 14) and keep everything clean. You need a quality 'inch-pound' torque wrench, too, but you should have one anyway if you plan on working on your car! You will be tickled (a) with the results and (b) because you did it yourself.
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
Arnolds97:
Sorry, I must have been typing when your post popped up. I think we're telling the same story!!
Cheers,
Chris
Sorry, I must have been typing when your post popped up. I think we're telling the same story!!
Cheers,
Chris
Your gears with our J Modded trans
I think you and I have corraborated before on the J mod a bunch of times.
How does the 3.73's work with our setup? It would have to be allot more touchy to keep from chirping second at lower speeds. I have read that 4.10's are the best for Auto's but i am worried about gas mileage. i drive my Stang daily for my job. I would like to get more performance however. Was there a noticeable improvement? What do you think?
I think you and I have corraborated before on the J mod a bunch of times.
How does the 3.73's work with our setup? It would have to be allot more touchy to keep from chirping second at lower speeds. I have read that 4.10's are the best for Auto's but i am worried about gas mileage. i drive my Stang daily for my job. I would like to get more performance however. Was there a noticeable improvement? What do you think?
nyuk98gt said:
Wow, thanks for the info. It sounds like the Trans-go kit would be easier though. Why is it not reccommended? What makes the J-mod better?
GTMomma02
New Member
Check out this thread from www.modulardepot.com. Jerry himself chimes in about 8 posts down the front page.
http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4121
http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4121
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
Arnolds97:
I like the 3.73s! It makes a huge improvement in how the car feels and makes it much more fun to drive. Mileage is not hurt much: I have lost about 1 mpg (combined city/highway) since the gear change -- not too bad. This really ought to be the first mod that Mustang owners make, imho. 4.10s would be fine, too, but I don't go to the track. The 3.73s provide a change of (3.73/3.08 - 1)*100 = 21.1% in gearing and the 4.10s provide a change of 33.1%. Not a significant difference between the two but a major improvement from stock. (Because the +99s come with 3.27s and more horsepower and torque, they go with 4.10s for a marked improvement. The 3.73s are not too different from 3.27s). Either way, gears are good. For a '98, the SpeedCal worked perfectly, too.
I had the PCM reflashed by "Inject-Tech" (Jerry W's original company, now he 'runs' SCT with Chris Johnson et al) to adjust the shift points. The J-mod makes the shifts quicker so there is less chance of hitting the rev limiter but you still need to have the transmission shift at the right speed and/or rpm. (It is not as easy as it looks!). You can try driving the car without the computer work (or a chip) but I think you will want this next step done, too. I recommend SCT because of my experience with Inject-Tech.
Go get some gears!
Chris
I like the 3.73s! It makes a huge improvement in how the car feels and makes it much more fun to drive. Mileage is not hurt much: I have lost about 1 mpg (combined city/highway) since the gear change -- not too bad. This really ought to be the first mod that Mustang owners make, imho. 4.10s would be fine, too, but I don't go to the track. The 3.73s provide a change of (3.73/3.08 - 1)*100 = 21.1% in gearing and the 4.10s provide a change of 33.1%. Not a significant difference between the two but a major improvement from stock. (Because the +99s come with 3.27s and more horsepower and torque, they go with 4.10s for a marked improvement. The 3.73s are not too different from 3.27s). Either way, gears are good. For a '98, the SpeedCal worked perfectly, too.
I had the PCM reflashed by "Inject-Tech" (Jerry W's original company, now he 'runs' SCT with Chris Johnson et al) to adjust the shift points. The J-mod makes the shifts quicker so there is less chance of hitting the rev limiter but you still need to have the transmission shift at the right speed and/or rpm. (It is not as easy as it looks!). You can try driving the car without the computer work (or a chip) but I think you will want this next step done, too. I recommend SCT because of my experience with Inject-Tech.
Go get some gears!
Chris
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
Mike98GT:
Nay, the TransGo is not 'easier', and, (please, no flames from the TransGo users) it is not 'better' than the J-mod, imho. "GTMomma02" provided a good link to explain some issues about the TransGo. An engineer who helped design the 4R70W has provided some modifications to make the transmission even better/more efficient: the J-mod is the way to go. However, the choice is always up to the individual modder!
Chris
Nay, the TransGo is not 'easier', and, (please, no flames from the TransGo users) it is not 'better' than the J-mod, imho. "GTMomma02" provided a good link to explain some issues about the TransGo. An engineer who helped design the 4R70W has provided some modifications to make the transmission even better/more efficient: the J-mod is the way to go. However, the choice is always up to the individual modder!
Chris
Blev
New Member
WoW....
After reading the posts from nyuk98gt and Arnold97, I think they made a believer out of me. My main reason for sticking with the trans'go is becuase a shop will do it. I'm pretty good when it comes to DIY, but messing with the trany sorta scared me. If I knew of a shop that would do the J-mod, I would go with it. So does anyone know a shop in Ventura County, CA that can swing a J-mod?
P.S. I have 3.73's and would love to rape the tires in 2nd to 3rd!!
After reading the posts from nyuk98gt and Arnold97, I think they made a believer out of me. My main reason for sticking with the trans'go is becuase a shop will do it. I'm pretty good when it comes to DIY, but messing with the trany sorta scared me. If I knew of a shop that would do the J-mod, I would go with it. So does anyone know a shop in Ventura County, CA that can swing a J-mod?
P.S. I have 3.73's and would love to rape the tires in 2nd to 3rd!!
99prmustang
New Member
- Sep 3, 2003
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just get a new valve body, thats whut i am doing. I plan on getting the PA street/strip valve body along with the PI stallion converter. The trans brake valve body is also very good im told, just pricey
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
Blev:
PA, Lentech, and Baumann Engineering offer valvebodies; it would be a simple matter to swap out the old for the new. But VB pricing is $300-350 -- not inexpensive to do.
If I were you (free advice here), I would print out the two chapters (13 & 14) and the "how-to" articles by A-Train and bring along to your shop. You can even buy the drill bits (they are "tap and dye" (sp?) bits, not just the regular sizes, at a hardware store (Sears or Ace, etc., or on-line). Get the +01 springs if you like, too. Then head back to your shop and I think they will be more than willing to do the job. It should not cost any more than installing a TransGo (maybe less since there is less to do, really). You might even get wild and do it yourself
!!
Come to the light .... do the J-mod ...
Chris
PA, Lentech, and Baumann Engineering offer valvebodies; it would be a simple matter to swap out the old for the new. But VB pricing is $300-350 -- not inexpensive to do.
If I were you (free advice here), I would print out the two chapters (13 & 14) and the "how-to" articles by A-Train and bring along to your shop. You can even buy the drill bits (they are "tap and dye" (sp?) bits, not just the regular sizes, at a hardware store (Sears or Ace, etc., or on-line). Get the +01 springs if you like, too. Then head back to your shop and I think they will be more than willing to do the job. It should not cost any more than installing a TransGo (maybe less since there is less to do, really). You might even get wild and do it yourself
!!Come to the light .... do the J-mod ...
Chris
Thanks for all the great info! I'm going to do the Jerry Mod for sure.
How long does it generally take? Any difficulties that you guys have ran into doing it yourself?
How long does it generally take? Any difficulties that you guys have ran into doing it yourself?
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
Mike98GT:
No problems. It can be messy when draining out 12-13 qts of Mercon so have some Speedy-Dry or cat litter and newspapers handy.
Keep brake cleaner away from your paint or you will be very sorry. Use it sparingly, if you need to use it at all. I didn't need it but I had a can ready anyway.
Torque the bolts in two stages, first to 55 to 60 inch-lb, then to 90 in-lb. Try to work in a criss-cross pattern so the valve body is not 'pulled' on one side.
There is a tiny screen -- about the diameter of a drinking straw -- that sits up in the transmission. Be careful when you remove the v/b because the little screen can fall out. There is a larger, square/angular screen (about 3/4" x 3/4") that sits up in the transmission and can be a little tricky to stick into place while getting the v/b back up. Just be patient and make sure the screen is properly seated and not squashed.
Get a new tranny filter and 12 quarts of Mercon V (not III).
Be careful when removing the black L-shaped electrical connector ("black tab"). You may want to order a spare in case you break the original. Just work slowly, and gently pull on the tab at several places, wiggling it free at each connection. Similarly, be careful when reinstalling it that you press down evenly and make sure each connection is properly seated.
The A-Train articles are very well written and the pictures help, too. Just find the correct holes on your sep plate (they change a little from year to year) and drill them out to the recommended sizes. [If you make a hole too big, the shift may be overly firm and you could break something. So, just double check before you drill. I used a black marker to circle each hole and write the drill size next to it (just like A-Train did)].
It took me about 6 hours from going out to the garage to finishing up all the clean up and putting the garage door down. I took a couple of breaks, re-read the A-Train articles, and didn't rush. Last thing: get cleaned up (bath & fresh clothes, clean shoes) before you go for a test drive because (a) ATF has an odor to it and (b) you don't want to transfer any ATF to your seats!
Good luck. It is one of the best mods I have done.
Chris
No problems. It can be messy when draining out 12-13 qts of Mercon so have some Speedy-Dry or cat litter and newspapers handy.
Keep brake cleaner away from your paint or you will be very sorry. Use it sparingly, if you need to use it at all. I didn't need it but I had a can ready anyway.
Torque the bolts in two stages, first to 55 to 60 inch-lb, then to 90 in-lb. Try to work in a criss-cross pattern so the valve body is not 'pulled' on one side.
There is a tiny screen -- about the diameter of a drinking straw -- that sits up in the transmission. Be careful when you remove the v/b because the little screen can fall out. There is a larger, square/angular screen (about 3/4" x 3/4") that sits up in the transmission and can be a little tricky to stick into place while getting the v/b back up. Just be patient and make sure the screen is properly seated and not squashed.
Get a new tranny filter and 12 quarts of Mercon V (not III).
Be careful when removing the black L-shaped electrical connector ("black tab"). You may want to order a spare in case you break the original. Just work slowly, and gently pull on the tab at several places, wiggling it free at each connection. Similarly, be careful when reinstalling it that you press down evenly and make sure each connection is properly seated.
The A-Train articles are very well written and the pictures help, too. Just find the correct holes on your sep plate (they change a little from year to year) and drill them out to the recommended sizes. [If you make a hole too big, the shift may be overly firm and you could break something. So, just double check before you drill. I used a black marker to circle each hole and write the drill size next to it (just like A-Train did)].
It took me about 6 hours from going out to the garage to finishing up all the clean up and putting the garage door down. I took a couple of breaks, re-read the A-Train articles, and didn't rush. Last thing: get cleaned up (bath & fresh clothes, clean shoes) before you go for a test drive because (a) ATF has an odor to it and (b) you don't want to transfer any ATF to your seats!
Good luck. It is one of the best mods I have done.
Chris
Like nyuk said it is not so hard as it is pretty dirty. Try to get all 4 wheels off the ground as high as you can on jack stands. Like I said take a video of what it look like before so you can do the after in segments. The 21? bolts like I said in my earlier post that hold on the Valve Body. This is one that you may want to Video ( I did) because some of the bolts are shorter than others and you want to make sure you get them back in the right holes. You also need to get a good C clip tool for the springs. Where safety Glasses! especially when taking out the C clips for the Accumulator springs. The setup I told you I used I got from another Stang netter. It is very daily driver but very weekend racer too. About 8 hours for me, but took breaks. Cost is much less because you are using stock ford parts-springs 10.00, filter 10.00, gaskets 5.00, Accumulator pistons 30.00 (make sure you read about why you need to replace them) drilling your own separator plate and Sears drill bits 10.00.
nyuk98gt
15 Year Member
Mike98GT:
Lucky for you (and me), there is a picture of the '98 separator plate in the "Transmission 101" article (Chapt. 13 or 14). The gasket is also shown covering the same plate. The two pics are there!
Note that the A-Train articles refer to a '95 T-Bird separator plate so it is a little different than the later separator plates. Do not refer to it for locating the various holes!!
Chris
Lucky for you (and me), there is a picture of the '98 separator plate in the "Transmission 101" article (Chapt. 13 or 14). The gasket is also shown covering the same plate. The two pics are there!
Note that the A-Train articles refer to a '95 T-Bird separator plate so it is a little different than the later separator plates. Do not refer to it for locating the various holes!!
Chris
