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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

shock/strut adjustment question??

  • Thread starter Thread starter steveb24
  • Start date Start date Jun 14, 2007

steveb24

New Member
Nov 28, 2005
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wilmington, DE
Jun 14, 2007
#1
  • Jun 14, 2007
  • #1
i have the KYB Adjustables.. they go 1-4 in the front with 4 being the stiffest setting, and 1-8 in the back with 8 being the stiffest setting. what setting should I put them on for drag racing?.. i cant figure out whether you would want stiffer in the front and loose in the back or vice versa. anyways, thanks for the help.
 

HoustonGT

Gilded Gelding
Apr 6, 2003
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Houston
Jun 14, 2007
#2
  • Jun 14, 2007
  • #2
You want the softest in the back so the weight transfer is ideal and the car squats and goes. You also want the front to be stiff so there isn't alot of nose dive in between shifts and it just gets up and goes. I plan to set mine this way as well when i go to the track next time to see if it makes a difference.
 

TweekedGT

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Jul 22, 2004
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Alberta
Jun 14, 2007
#3
  • Jun 14, 2007
  • #3
HoustonGT said:
You want the softest in the back so the weight transfer is ideal and the car squats and goes. You also want the front to be stiff so there isn't alot of nose dive in between shifts and it just gets up and goes. I plan to set mine this way as well when i go to the track next time to see if it makes a difference.
Click to expand...

Absolutely not. The fronts should be as loose as possible. You want the front to come up as high as it can, take the front sway bar off too. Nose dive means nothing on a drag car, if you were running a road course you would want no nose dive. Put the backs to about half stiffness. If you have 8 adjustments in the back try starting it at 4. Having the fronts as loose as possible will unload all of the weight off the front end and transfer it to the back wheels. Make the backs not to soft but not too hard because too soft equal major rebound which can cause axle hop. Too hard means the weight transfer won't get to the tires. Try this as a starting point and go from there.
 

HoustonGT

Gilded Gelding
Apr 6, 2003
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Houston
Jun 14, 2007
#4
  • Jun 14, 2007
  • #4
TweekedGT said:
Absolutely not. The fronts should be as loose as possible. You want the front to come up as high as it can, take the front sway bar off too. Nose dive means nothing on a drag car, if you were running a road course you would want no nose dive. Put the backs to about half stiffness. If you have 8 adjustments in the back try starting it at 4. Having the fronts as loose as possible will unload all of the weight off the front end and transfer it to the back wheels. Make the backs not to soft but not too hard because too soft equal major rebound which can cause axle hop. Too hard means the weight transfer won't get to the tires. Try this as a starting point and go from there.
Click to expand...

I stand corrected Thanks for the heads up.
 

steveb24

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Nov 28, 2005
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wilmington, DE
Jun 14, 2007
#5
  • Jun 14, 2007
  • #5
.. that argument was the exact reason why i couldnt figure this out. I did, however, put my front shocks to setting 4 (stiffest setting), and i really like the "solidness" and the way it drives now. For the track tho, i will do what u said tweeked, once i think about it that makes perfect sense.
 
W

WillDuhhBeast

New Member
Jun 25, 2005
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Jacksonville Florida
Jun 14, 2007
#6
  • Jun 14, 2007
  • #6
Youre gonna have to try it. Having the D-Specs is almost a nightmare, especially since I pretty much OCD out everytime I try to find a decent setup.
 

lvmustanggt

New Member
Apr 9, 2006
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Las Vegas
Jun 14, 2007
#7
  • Jun 14, 2007
  • #7
I got kyb agx adj too just like your 1-4 for front and 1-8 out back. I just cannot dial in
my suspension right , it's been 8 months and haven't had any good runs at the track since I did my shocks struts. I use to cut 1.8 60' with stock shocks and struts and LAC, now I got kyb agx adj shocks and struts and bbk gripp LAC but cannot even hit 1.8 60' no more

If you get it dial in let me know please,
 

steveb24

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Nov 28, 2005
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wilmington, DE
Jun 14, 2007
#8
  • Jun 14, 2007
  • #8
yea.. well its hard to dial it in when 99% of my driving is on the street. im still tryin to find a good street combo first, and i think i have the winner for that. 3 up front, 5 out back. rides really nice. anyways, yea i wouldnt call these shocks/ struts the best for drag racing, but the adj part is nice, you can really feel the difference
 

lvmustanggt

New Member
Apr 9, 2006
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Jun 15, 2007
#9
  • Jun 15, 2007
  • #9
steveb24 said:
yea.. well its hard to dial it in when 99% of my driving is on the street. im still tryin to find a good street combo first, and i think i have the winner for that. 3 up front, 5 out back. rides really nice. anyways, yea i wouldnt call these shocks/ struts the best for drag racing, but the adj part is nice, you can really feel the difference
Click to expand...

for street I use 2 front , 4 back. For drag racing I have used all the setting with no luck
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jun 16, 2007
#10
  • Jun 16, 2007
  • #10
If you want good results at the track buy a set of drag shocks and don't lower your car, infact a lighter spring would be better in the front..... oh and disconnect the front sway bar.

Those KYBs, as far as I know, are not good for draging. I've got a set on my DD along with some Eibach springs and it goes through the canyons really well =)
 
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