Shock tower woes

rnrjunkie · Jun 13, 2010

Get one problem fixed and the next one pops up.

I took a curve a bit harder yesterday and heard a "clunk" from the front end. As I drove handling got progressively worse, ending with that front end squeal that happens when the front end is out of alignment.

I just parked her in the garage, as I didn't really want to be bothered with it yesterday. Today I crawled under to see what gave, and got a not so nice surprise. The Shock Tower, or better yet the mount at the bottom has gave way along the bend that mounts to the frame rail. The motor mount also ripped along with it.

Here's a nice pic:

The other side of that mount looks a bit worse.

Here's my question:

Can I realistically weld this and have it hold another 1-2 years until I can get the motor pulled and change to whole shock tower out? I know that the whole part needs to be changed, but I really would like to at least drive the car until fall without having to rip everything out.

Thanks,

Andy

rnrjunkie · Jun 13, 2010

This is the part that would need to be replace to (properly) fix the problem:

The part listing says it comes in 2 parts. My next question is can I just get the part I need? And if so, can I just change the middle part out, without changing the whole shock tower?

Here's a link to the part: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/it...tegory=Shock+Tower+&+Related&CatKey=EMUSTANG#

2+2GT · Jun 13, 2010

Well, that's different. I have hundreds of thousands of miles on my 66, including some autocross, and that's a new one. Welding properly is a must, if only to hold it together. I gotta ask, what wheel and tires do you have on the front end?

rnrjunkie · Jun 13, 2010

The previous owner had 17" Wheels on it, I took them off and put some 15's with 225/60R15 on.

2+2GT · Jun 13, 2010

rnrjunkie said:
The previous owner had 17" Wheels on it, I took them off and put some 15's with 225/60R15 on.

That explains a lot. Remember, these cars were engineered for 695-14 bias-ply, non-belted tires. Even race cars of the day had nothing to compare with your 225/60R15 steel belted radial, which would have been considered science fiction back then. The radial tire was a rare bird, I think Michelin was almost the only supplier, and it was conventional size, and was considered weird and unpredictable.

hipo_p51 · Jun 13, 2010

Is this pic from a 67/8 car? I have noticed over the years the 67/8 cars have these problems the most.

rnrjunkie said:
Get one problem fixed and the next one pops up.

I took a curve a bit harder yesterday and heard a "clunk" from the front end. As I drove handling got progressively worse, ending with that front end squeal that happens when the front end is out of alignment.

I just parked her in the garage, as I didn't really want to be bothered with it yesterday. Today I crawled under to see what gave, and got a not so nice surprise. The Shock Tower, or better yet the mount at the bottom has gave way along the bend that mounts to the frame rail. The motor mount also ripped along with it.

Here's a nice pic:

The other side of that mount looks a bit worse.

Here's my question:

Can I realistically weld this and have it hold another 1-2 years until I can get the motor pulled and change to whole shock tower out? I know that the whole part needs to be changed, but I really would like to at least drive the car until fall without having to rip everything out.

Thanks,

Andy

rnrjunkie · Jun 13, 2010

From my '67 Fastback. So whatcha think? Will it hold up for the occasional weekend cruise if welded correctly?

hipo_p51 · Jun 13, 2010

i would say take it to a frame shop and have them put it on a rack. have them make sure the car is square and weld a large piece of angle iron (or something along those lines) and see what happens. and if it breaks again or something else in the same area cracks, fix it the right way. take this info for what it worth.

109jb · Jun 15, 2010

As for replace or weld, my opinion is that welding is the choice IF a decent welder does the job. If done properly that can be made as strong or stronger than original. From the pictures, the metal looks to be in good shape except of course for the crack and a little bending. When you weld it or have it welded you can put some doublers in to further strengthen the pieces.

Why not replace? Sure you could, but if the replacements are made just like the original then why would they not crack again?? Personally, I would weld them up and add some doubler pieces and keep an eye on it.

rnrjunkie · Jun 16, 2010

Morning,

I have decided to have it welded for the moment, so that I can at least drive the car until the fall. The shock tower looks to have been welded up above by a previous owner, so it really just all needs to be replaced.

Actually this "problem" explains a few others that had occured since I have owned the car. I bought the car in San Jose and had it shipped here. When it came in on the transporter, the wheel (17") had smacked up against the fender, causing paint damage. I had the paint fixed, but the tire had been rubbing occasionally on the lip inside the fender. Since most of the suspension components are new, the "flex" in the shock tower could explain why there is so much movement on that wheel.

Since the part is structural I'm having a shop do it . They do some amazing work, so this is really a piece of cake for them. This is one of their future projects:

(yes, there are trees growing through the front and back!)

I'll start collecting parts, so that I have everything I need to get it back together by spring.

Thanks for the input,

Andy

Wicked65 · Jun 16, 2010

Time for mustang II Front end.

rnrjunkie · Jun 18, 2010

After getting her up on the lift and finding multiple signs of previous repair(s) I have decided to do the "right" thing and replace both shock towers. Safety first!

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