Should I just do a Mach 1 swap instead of a PI headswap?

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crashGTR1

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Dec 2, 2003

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Chicago

Jan 12, 2004

#1

• Jan 12, 2004

• #1

Hey everyone. I've been thinking about this whole headswap deal. For $2000, I could get Stage II ported/polished heads, Comp Cams Hot Street PI camshafts, and the plastic GT intake manifold. All told, about 250-275 rwhp. To increase the hp anymore would be pretty expensive. But for $3000, I could just do the Kar Kraft Mach 1 engine, have about 260-280 rwhp, 300-320 rwtq, and the potential to increase that with p&p cylinder heads, cams, intake, and eventually, maybe even a stroker kit. Plus, my engine would be able to rev higher, and no one would expect my kind of power from a stock looking '98 GT. So, I'm wondering, should I just do a Mach 1 engine swap? All opinions welcomed and encouraged. BTW, I'll probably take off the hood scoop in order to keep it a secret weapon. Please post you $.02. Thanks as always. Peace.
--Adam

 

Patrick-GT

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Aug 18, 2003

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Jan 12, 2004

#2

• Jan 12, 2004

• #2

If you've got the money go for the Mach 1 swap, it might be harder but will pay off in the long run, and it would be cool as hell.

 

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crashGTR1

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Jan 12, 2004

#3

• Jan 12, 2004

• #3

Patrick-GT said:

If you've got the money go for the Mach 1 swap, it might be harder but will pay off in the long run, and it would be cool as hell.

Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. I have a friend who's dad is a certified mechanic with his own shop, so I have help with the swap. Seriously, though, I would be one of the few SN95 GT's out there with the Mach 1 engine. No one would suspect it. Upon looking at my car, most would expect a 15 second dog, until they try something. I'm getting giddy here. Man I can't wait. Since I'm skipping the hood scoop, I'm probably just going to get a Cobra R/RR hood, and some Mach 1 wheels as just a tiny hint of what lies beneath the hood. Peace.
--Adam

EDIT: I might just do deepdish Bullitts....cuz they are so damn tempting and I could have those SWEET wide-a** 315's on the back.

 

Screwed2V

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Aug 6, 2003

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Misery

Jan 13, 2004

#4

• Jan 13, 2004

• #4

Just remember to budget more than the $3k. You'll have many more expenses to make this swap happen but you are correct..........it would be sweet.

 

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crashGTR1

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Jan 13, 2004

#5

• Jan 13, 2004

• #5

micool said:

Just remember to budget more than the $3k. You'll have many more expenses to make this swap happen but you are correct..........it would be sweet.

Click to expand...

I know about the budget thing. Learned that the hard way in the past. It all adds up, especially when you need stuff like new headers. I plan on selling my old engine and all of my old parts.
--Adam

 

03trubluGT

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Nov 19, 2002

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Jan 13, 2004

#6

• Jan 13, 2004

• #6

I'm gonna hang with the crowd and say go for the Mach1 motor...

No regrets, mate!

Matt

 

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crashGTR1

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Jan 13, 2004

#7

• Jan 13, 2004

• #7

03trubluGT said:

I'm gonna hang with the crowd and say go for the Mach1 motor...

No regrets, mate!

Matt

Click to expand...

Exactly...no regrets. If I do something, I want to do it once and I want to do it right, this included. With the headswap, I'd feel limited since I would've already done most of what I possibly could've done to that motor. 4V=more RPM's, more potential.
--Adam

 

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ModularMike281

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Apr 27, 2003

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Jan 13, 2004

#8

• Jan 13, 2004

• #8

MACH1 all the way brotha, Beautiful thing is that with the mach1 swap baseline will be about 270 rwhp and then with a few tinkers you could up that over 300rwhp im sure; meanwhile the PI headswap will yield what 250 - 260 rwhp or so, but mind you you probably wont sqeeze out much more than that (n/a of course) and that power level is only attainable with full exhaust and the works. As I said previously MACH1 all the way brotha.

 

gruntman31

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Apr 22, 2002

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Jan 13, 2004

#9

• Jan 13, 2004

• #9

Definately get the mach 1 motor. I think I'm the only one here qualified to say posivitely, absoultely get the mach 1 motor. I had ported PI heads, crower cams, LT's, prochamber, etc... and my mach 1 motor with just a 80mm C&L, MAC catted H, and cat-back is MUCH faster. At idle the car will rock gently. And it sounds gurgly - like it's been cammed.

And you won't have to fear LS1's anymore!!

 

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crashGTR1

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Jan 13, 2004

#10

• Jan 13, 2004

• #10

gruntman31 said:

Definately get the mach 1 motor. I think I'm the only one here qualified to say posivitely, absoultely get the mach 1 motor. I had ported PI heads, crower cams, LT's, prochamber, etc... and my mach 1 motor with just a 80mm C&L, MAC catted H, and cat-back is MUCH faster. At idle the car will rock gently. And it sounds gurgly - like it's been cammed.

And you won't have to fear LS1's anymore!!

Click to expand...

Did you take the hood scoop off or just cut your hood? Do you know if it would be worth to cam the Mach 1 engine and port and polish the heads (eventually)? Thanks a lot for the feedback.
--Adam

 

01BlkGT

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Jan 22, 2002

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ATX

Jan 13, 2004

#11

• Jan 13, 2004

• #11

Def. go with the Mach I engine. Another way to look at is mileage wise you'd be getting a newer lower mileage motor. Good luck with the install and make sure to post pics

 

gruntman31

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Jan 13, 2004

#12

• Jan 13, 2004

• #12

Did you take the hood scoop off or just cut your hood? Do you know if it would be worth to cam the Mach 1 engine and port and polish the heads (eventually)? Thanks a lot for the feedback.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I didn't put the scoop on. Makes my car a real sleeper - totally stock looking. Even down to the 16" waffle wheels! I'm not sure how far the heads can be ported. They are 03 Cobra heads, so they already flow better than 99-01 heads. I'm sure they could be ported out some. Maybe 20 CFM or so. Cams, yes, they would be worth it. You would pick up 20-25 HP from them. The cams in the mach 1 are navigator cams. And they make for some awesome low end torque. But a more aggressive cam could definately add some more mid-top end pull. I intend to either port my heads or put the FR500 heads on. And of course, add some more aggressive cams.

 

GoBabyVroommm

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Mar 22, 2003

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Jan 13, 2004

#13

• Jan 13, 2004

• #13

Get the mach, get the mach. You drop that motor in you'll be happy as hell.

 

TribalMan

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Jan 12, 2004

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Columbia, SC

Jan 13, 2004

#14

• Jan 13, 2004

• #14

That would be sweet if you get it all worked out. Hey, if your going that far, get something with real power (5.4L+) and dip in to the 10's

 

J

johnnyvista

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Jan 15, 2004

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Jan 15, 2004

#15

• Jan 15, 2004

• #15

mach 1 swap

i blew a rod on my 2000 GT and, since it's going to cost about the same to rebuild the engine as it would be to put a new one in it, i'm looking at dropping a mach 1 engine into it. can anyone tell me what other parts i'll need?

also, can anyone recommend a good speed shop in the LA area?

thanks!

jw
------
2000 GT

 

stangman

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Jul 10, 2003

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Jan 15, 2004

#16

• Jan 15, 2004

• #16

doing the mach swap would definately be sweet plus if you want to, cdc makes the shaker kit for the 96-98's now. so if you changed you mind down the road you can do that too

 

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crashGTR1

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Jan 15, 2004

#17

• Jan 15, 2004

• #17

Thanks everyone for responding. Right now, I'm trying to get my friend to give me a good deal on the labor (he's a mechanic). He has a 99 V6 that's up there in the miles, so I'll probably sell him my stock 98 GT motor afterwards (55,000 miles, $1500). We'll see how it goes.
--Adam

 

AdamantiumKnot

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nj

Jan 16, 2004

#18

• Jan 16, 2004

• #18

gruntman31 said:

Yeah, I didn't put the scoop on. Makes my car a real sleeper - totally stock looking. Even down to the 16" waffle wheels! I'm not sure how far the heads can be ported. They are 03 Cobra heads, so they already flow better than 99-01 heads. I'm sure they could be ported out some. Maybe 20 CFM or so. Cams, yes, they would be worth it. You would pick up 20-25 HP from them. The cams in the mach 1 are navigator cams. And they make for some awesome low end torque. But a more aggressive cam could definately add some more mid-top end pull. I intend to either port my heads or put the FR500 heads on. And of course, add some more aggressive cams.

Click to expand...

How much did the swap run you? I just got a new motor in my car under warranty, so I'm still a slow 98 looking to possibly upgrade in the future.

 

S

Solid Snake

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Jan 16, 2004

#19

• Jan 16, 2004

• #19

Any which way you look at it:

4V > 2V

 

C

crashGTR1

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Jan 16, 2004

#20

• Jan 16, 2004

• #20

Volldamort said:

Any which way you look at it:

4V > 2V

Click to expand...

Yes. 4V = 1000 more RPM's = more hp = BRAND new 0 mileage parts (in my case) = much more potential for future mods > 2V. By far.