I am using a derale stainless flex fan currently, I am thinking of switching over to an electric fan............
Is it worth doing?
Any advice
Is it worth doing?
Any advice
Should I switch to Electric Fan????
- Thread starter 67GTCOUPE
- Start date
Yes, get a SPAL they balance them after the blade is installed on the motor.
Get a puller and mount it behind the radiator, I didn't need a shroud when I went to electric. Pushers mounted in front tend to block the fins directly behind the fan motor.
Get a 3G alternator out of a 94-03 V6 mustang to keep up with the higher Amps needed and ditch the external voltage regulator.
You won't regret it, and it is true that a very small amount of HP will be felt.
Get a puller and mount it behind the radiator, I didn't need a shroud when I went to electric. Pushers mounted in front tend to block the fins directly behind the fan motor.
Get a 3G alternator out of a 94-03 V6 mustang to keep up with the higher Amps needed and ditch the external voltage regulator.
You won't regret it, and it is true that a very small amount of HP will be felt.
chepsk8
Founding Member
I did it on my old 68. Looks much better, seems to cool beter too!
Painless makes a thermal switch that goes into the intake manifold to control the fan relay. Hit JEGS or similar for the parts.
Painless makes a thermal switch that goes into the intake manifold to control the fan relay. Hit JEGS or similar for the parts.
eric n
Founding Member
I'm also a spal fan. Moves quite a bit of air when idleing. Unlike a stock mechanical fan which moves practically nothing at idle.
Also frees up a few ponies. Not a ton, but it seems to be a little noticable with the seat of the pants o meter.
Also frees up a few ponies. Not a ton, but it seems to be a little noticable with the seat of the pants o meter.
iskwezm
10 Year Member
Anytime you want to switch a device which draws more current than is provided by an output of a switch or component you'll need to use a relay. The coil of an SPDT relay that we most commonly use draws very little current (less than 200 milliamps) and the amount of current that you can pass through a relay's common, normally closed, and normally open contacts will handle up to 30 or 40 amps. This allows you to switch devices such as headlights, parking lights, horns, etc., with low amperage outputs such as those found on keyless entry and alarm systems, and other components. In some cases you may need to switch multiple things at the same time using one output. A single output connected to multiple relays will allow you to open continuity and/or close continuity simultaneously on multiple wiresmustangman70 said:
It's pretty easy
Follow this:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=75
You end up with two wires to the alternator.
One is the small wires which is hot on IGN (or Run) only.
One is the fat cable that goes to the battery.
No external regulator is used.
Follow this:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=75
You end up with two wires to the alternator.
One is the small wires which is hot on IGN (or Run) only.
One is the fat cable that goes to the battery.
No external regulator is used.
Yeah, do NOT use the probes that go in between the fins, they are notorious for being inaccurate and inconsitent.chepsk8 said:
I don't knkow how much Summit/Jegs sell the Painless switches for but I'd guess it is more than the aftermarket one I bought at Autozone. Look up a 1992 Taurus, that part fit perfectly with the Perf-RPM manifold.
BobV
20+ Year Stangneter 
You might also take a look at the Spal Electronic Fan Controller. Makes your fan variable speed according to temperature, does not require a seperate relay (for single fan operation), and (the BEST part IMO) does NOT require a seperate temperature sender - plugs into your existing temperature gauge sending unit! 
84convertablegt
New Member
actually the probes that go in between the fins work fine if you have an adjustable thermostat. if you have a set thermostat, dont use the probe, because it wont be accuarate like said above. i did use one however with an adjustable thermostat so all i had to do was watch the temp gauge and when it got to where i wanted the fan to come on, turn the switch counter clockwise until the fan starts turning. works like a charm every time now.
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