Anytime you want to switch a device which draws more current than is provided by an output of a switch or component you'll need to use a relay. The coil of an SPDT relay that we most commonly use draws very little current (less than 200 milliamps) and the amount of current that you can pass through a relay's common, normally closed, and normally open contacts will handle up to 30 or 40 amps. This allows you to switch devices such as headlights, parking lights, horns, etc., with low amperage outputs such as those found on keyless entry and alarm systems, and other components. In some cases you may need to switch multiple things at the same time using one output. A single output connected to multiple relays will allow you to open continuity and/or close continuity simultaneously on multiple wiresmustangman70 said:How does the relay work? turns on with temp? or when theres flow????
Rollinns said:Yes, get a SPAL they balance them after the blade is installed on the motor.
Get a puller and mount it behind the radiator, I didn't need a shroud when I went to electric. Pushers mounted in front tend to block the fins directly behind the fan motor.
Get a 3G alternator out of a 94-03 V6 mustang to keep up with the higher Amps needed and ditch the external voltage regulator.
You won't regret it, and it is true that a very small amount of HP will be felt.
Yeah, do NOT use the probes that go in between the fins, they are notorious for being inaccurate and inconsitent.chepsk8 said:Painless makes a thermal switch that goes into the intake manifold to control the fan relay. Hit JEGS or similar for the parts.
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