Should this combination keep me cool?

[MunchE]

I just got my 408 stroker running and unsurprisingly I am having problems keeping it cool with the stock radiator/flex fan. I am looking at getting this combo of parts and I am wondering if anyone has any input:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FLX-180&FROM=MG
FLX-180 Electric Fan, S-Blade, Single, 18 in. Diameter, Puller, 3,300 cfm, Black, Nylon, Each

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=SUM-380325&FROM=MG
SUM-380325 Radiator, Universal, Crossflow, Aluminum, 25.75 in. Wide, 19 in. High, 2.875 in. Thick, Each

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=PWM-8-47140&FROM=MG
PWM-8-47140 Alternator, Internal Regulator, 140 Amp, Natural, Ford/Mercury/Jeep, Each

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=BMM-70268&FROM=MG
BMM-70268 Fluid Cooler, Transmission, Plate-Type, Aluminum, Black, 7 1/2 in. x 11 in. x 3/4 in., Each

Has anyone run any of these parts? I seem to be finding good things about the Summit/Northern radiator. I wanted to get a trans cooler anyways, and the electric fan should help me avoid the issues I am having with fan clearance and keep it cooler to boot. The car is running an Edelbrock high flow water pump and the combo is in my sig.

 

[5.0ina66]

You can get a 16" SPAL straight blade puller kit from streetortrack for ~$240 with the relays, wiring, and temp sensors. Radiator and tranny cooler look good. I'd go with a Ford 3g alt (cheap!) but thats just me.

 

[MunchE]

The Flex-A-Lite comes with the relays etc. as well, I see a lot of guys recommend SPAL, is there any other advantage? I didn't see CFM specs on the site, for $20 difference I don't want to give up too much.

Also, maybe it's a huge brainfart but what do you mean when you say 3g alt?

 

[iskwezm]

3G alt. is a late model 130 amp.

I have the Northern radiator and it works pretty good for my car

 

[Sicarius428]

Im really not a fan of the PowerMaster alts. I think you would be better off with a 3G alt. Check out pa-performance.com and definately use 4 ga with a 150A fuse to connect it all up. 8ga wire is a joke that the powermaster comes with.
Kevin

 

[MunchE]

Checking my measurements, the FLX-180 might be a bit too thick. 4.187 is cutting it very close for what I have in there now, plus the new summit radiator is about half an inch thicker than what I have. On Street Or Track I was looking at the High Performance 16" straight blade puller 2360CFM and it comes to about $219 with install kit and thermostat and everything else, which isn't too bad at all. My other option is the FLX-210 dual 12" 2500CFM, thinner than both at 2.625in but it might be too wide, it's 26.250 and I was looking at the 25.75" radiator. So I guess I am leaning towards the SPAL.

What all is involved in converting to a 3g alternator? I imagine it's not a direct bolt in. I found some stuff at pa-performance but it's all pretty pricey. Some guys are saying they convert to keep it on the cheap.

 

[rbohm]

the radiator i like. it is a good street design and will serve you well.

the electric fans you have chosen i dont like. the first one pulls enough air, but is rather expensive. the second one doesnt pull enough air. you can get an electric fan from a salvage yard from a lincoln mark Vlll that will out perform the aftermarket fans. there is a drawback though, it draws a 33amps while running, and 100amp on startup. you can get the delta eletronic fan controller that will start the fan up slowly so it doesnt have that huge draw right off, but that controller isnt cheap either, but the best solution. the lincoln electric fan will pull around 4500cfm of air though, and that is more than enough to cool your motor.

you will need the 3G, or similar capacity alternator with the lincoln fan. installing the ford 3G alt(stands for third generation by the way) is rather easy as long as you get one from a car that has the alternator mounts roughly 180 degrees from each other. the mod motors use mounts that war about 30 degrees apart and wont work on early engine, without a lot of reegineering of the mounting system.

 

[jerry S]

Checking my measurements, the FLX-180 might be a bit too thick. 4.187 is cutting it very close for what I have in there now, plus the new summit radiator is about half an inch thicker than what I have. On Street Or Track I was looking at the High Performance 16" straight blade puller 2360CFM and it comes to about $219 with install kit and thermostat and everything else, which isn't too bad at all. My other option is the FLX-210 dual 12" 2500CFM, thinner than both at 2.625in but it might be too wide, it's 26.250 and I was looking at the 25.75" radiator. So I guess I am leaning towards the SPAL.

Have a look at the flex-a-lite 118. It is a 16 inch fan that pulls 2500 cfm and is only 3.19 inches deep. At $129, it is almost 1/2 the price of the summit dual fans and pulls the same amount of air.

 

[84convertablegt]

I went the expensive route on my 65. 440.00 dollar griffin aluminum radiator and a 16" SPAL Slimline fan at 191.00 dollars. But you will have more options on a 69 with more side to side room. But I cant even get the car to think of breaking the 160' temp of the t-stat on a 90' day sitting at a light. It just wont even try to get hot. Also, I made my own fan controller out a an automotive relay and an adjustable thermostat along with a radioshack project box for way cheaper. I wouldnt be too worried if the fan is a little underpowered as long as the radiator is way overboard. It can pick up alot of slack as long as air is moving. Once you get moving, the fan does nothing. Also, in your search for fans, be aware the Becool fans are SPAL fans, just sold under the Becool name. I got mine and it said SPAL right on the box and the fan, not becool.

 

[jerry S]

be aware the Becool fans are SPAL fans, just sold under the Becool name.

There is one big difference between the Spal fans sold by Spal and the Spal fans sold by BeCool and it is that the latter are more expensive than the former. Go figure.