siamese, boss, dart Sportsman, motorsport

  • Sponsors (?)


You will find that people here have their preferences, but all of the R302, A4, boss, dart blocks have pretty much the same capability.
Some will suggest that some need more machining, but in most cases the cost difference is not enough to change your mind, and some builders do the same work to all blocks regardless.

IMO, but which ever one you get the best deal on.
 
I will be using a dart sportsman chances are in the near future. They are lighter then the Iron eagle and will handle a lot of power. Way over 1200 hp. As for the ford blocks they are good, but some have had cooling issues with the A4's ad R302's which seems to have a pretty easy fix but I cant think of it off the top of my head. But overall aftermarket blocks have basicly no down side in my eyes.


PS a Ford sportsman block is no in the same class as the dart, R302's etc. It is a 2 bolt main block that is basicly like running a stocker.
 
One downside is that the aftermarket iron blocks weigh more than the factory block. My Iron Eagle is 90lbs heavier than the stocker. Other than that, no downsides that I can think of. If you don't want the extra weight, you can go aluminum for another 2-3 grand...

I agree with the above, if you can find a deal on any of the good after market blocks (Dart, World Products, r302, A4, new Boss) then go with it. They'll all handle whatever you can throw at it.

Chris
 
I don't think all the aftermarket race blocks are 90 lbs more.
I think some are only around 50lbs more.
The extra weight is the price you pay for 500rwhp or more or a high rpm engine.
 
I run a R-Block in our street car only heat problems I am having is due to the intercooler cuz when it was S/C I had no problems at all. but the heat issues I am having are very small and don't stop me from driving it on 100 + degree days so no big deal. It took a lot of machine work to get it ready to run it was decked and aline- bored and bored cuz I wanted it .030 over. and I had to hone the lifter bores to fit and I had to clearance the block for the rod bolts due to the H-beam long rods. I got a Dart Iron Eagle block also that I got used the only thing that was not done to it that was done to the R- Block. was the aline-bore on the mains.
 
im going with a dart soon as i get my credit card:D,who cares if the block weights more,that 50 or 90lbs wont matter when your making 200-300 or so hp then what you were already making.
Oh, I don't know....It certainly matters to those of us who want to stop and turn. ;) Adding 90lbs throughout the entire car is one thing....adding it all to the front end is certainly another.

To me, its worth the money to go with an aftermarket aluminum block, even if it doesn't handle quite the same amount of power. I can't remember what company it was, but someone just released a semi low cost aluminum block 351W based engine what sounds like it would be the cats ass for about 90% of the people on this site.
 
I mean... If you can get the car to hook, I don't believe it's a big deal for a drag oriented car. If you're a corner carver, then I could definitely see the interest in the aluminum alternatives.

Like was already said, 90lbs is the dart Iron Eagles extra weight over stock. The Boss, and the dart sportsman blocks are lighter for sure. Don't know about the World Products block.

Chris
 
Unless you either A. have a huge wallet, or B. are competing in a series or for money, i'd forget the aluminum block.
They are expensive and not everyone is qualified to assemble and machine them.
 
Well my choice was a dart sportsman simply for the good deal I got at BBR. Compare the two, stock block and dart block WOW the thing looks like something they put in a tank. Check out the pic. That's a stock two bolt main cap on top. Mike
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2796.jpg
    DSCN2796.jpg
    74.6 KB · Views: 106
wow how much was it?? does anyone have the best prices or have a good recomendation to a perticular place. I have right now a DSS and it has always had tons of blow-by and its a pro bullet with girdels O ringed, and all the bells and whistels. I just backed my turbo down to 407 RWHP so that I dont demolish the thing. Its a motorsport block.
 
I just backed my turbo down to 407 RWHP so that I dont demolish the thing. Its a motorsport block.

Even the stock block should handle another 100-150hp more than that. Unless your engine is in really poor shape, I wouldn't worry too much. And forced induction cars always burn a little more oil than N/A ones. Oil tends to get forced past the rings when you presurize the crank case. That's just the nature of the beast I'm afraid. You could always try running an oil separator to minimize the mess. :shrug:
 
Well, I did have some blow by with my stock block. That is untill I split it up the middle through the cam bearings. This thing's been together about 3 yrs at 15psi making about 525 to the tires. Having 1/2 in. head bolts is nice too, the clamping force is much higher no more O rings. I drive it alot in the summer and when the weather is good in the winter. So far no problems. The thing is rock solid. Mike