signs of a bad dist?

N8Miller · May 5, 2007

like the title says, im having trouble starting my car.... no spark. so, after trying a coil from my buddy, getting my TFI module tested (and passed), i cant figure out why there is no spark.... i am thinking its the dist itself thats bad. but i was wondering if anyone had a bad dist and what the signs were?

montegoman351 · May 5, 2007

Put the rotor button back in!!!

There is a hall effect sensor in the dist. One way to tell if it is bad is to see if your fuel pump runs while you are cranking, if the FP doesn't run, more than likely it is a bad hall effect. I had the same problem with mine, the FP didn't run and it wouldn't get any spark.

There is a test online where you ohm the hall effect with the dist out. It has been a while and I can't find the page, but I think it was 600-800ohms was good, mine was 1,200ohms so I replaced it and it started just fine. To ohm it, you pull the module off the dist, and ohm 2 of the 3 pins, I don't recall which ones. The bad thing is, if the hall effect goes bad, it usually takes the module with it.

I tested mine and it was bad, I ran down to AutoZone and got one for less than $20.

If you don't have any codes, and all the wires to the module are good, it's more than likely the hall effect.

jrichker · May 5, 2007

Form the Cranks OK but no Start Checklist:

Item 1D.) PIP sensor in distributor. See paragraph 5A - a noid light will tell if the pip is working by flashing when the engine is cranking.
5A.) A noid light available from any auto parts store, is one way to test the injector wiring.
The noid light plugs into the fuel injector harness in place of any easily accessible injector. Plug it in and it will flash if the injector is firing.

No working PIP signal, no spark and no injector pulse

Get a noid light form AutoZone or other auto parts store, or even better
a set of them

This set is from http://www.toolking.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=12492 and costs $12.

N8Miller · May 5, 2007

i have 12v to the injectors when the key is on. is that about the same thing?

i still dont understand the dist thing and the PIP?!?! i am not really a novice, but i dont get it

montegoman: did you just replace the entire dist? my TFI module turned out to be OK when i had it checked at advance autoparts 2 days ago.

HISSIN50 · May 5, 2007

N8Miller said:
i have 12v to the injectors when the key is on. is that about the same thing?

i still dont understand the dist thing and the PIP?!?! i am not really a novice, but i dont get it

montegoman: did you just replace the entire dist? my TFI module turned out to be OK when i had it checked at advance autoparts 2 days ago.

The computer sends a ground pulse to excite the injectors. You need to see this ground pulse (it's quick, hence the need for a noid light or LED test light). You can remove the PIP and still have 12 volts reach the injectors.

To tie a little more into what JR said, in hopes it makes some sense.: The PIP is in the dizzy. It is responsible for relaying to the computer when to fire the ignition and injectors. If you lose this, it would be like having no crank or cam position sensors on a DIS/COP vehicle (if those are more familiar to you).

The noid light is the quick and dirty way of seeing if you have PIP function (if you have injector energization, the PIP is ok). That means you can move onto ignition-specific components.

Good luck.

white99gt · May 5, 2007

Have you checked the salt/pepper connectors? They can get corrsion on them and will not allow the car to run .

N8Miller · May 5, 2007

white:no i have not. i will check them in the morning.

since i dont have a spare dist to try, guess that im gonna move on to the noid light setup. ill try to pick one of them up tommrow too.

fastfive0 · May 6, 2007

Check the halogen fluids in the headlights....they may have excessive draw!

LOL Nate I'm off work wednesday and all weekend. I will come by and help you figure it out. I can get any mustang running!

montegoman351 · May 6, 2007

N8Miller said:
montegoman: did you just replace the entire dist? my TFI module turned out to be OK when i had it checked at advance autoparts 2 days ago.

No, just the hall effect pickup. Pull the gear, shaft, and module; once that's all out/off its just a couple bolts, and it's easy. Best thing is to ohm it first, but like I said, I can't remember the exact spec or where the website was.

N8Miller · May 6, 2007

oh well, i just bought a new pickup from the local auto parts store for like $16 (with my discount). do i need to pull the dist to swap it out?

HISSIN50 · May 6, 2007

N8Miller said:
oh well, i just bought a new pickup from the local auto parts store for like $16 (with my discount). do i need to pull the dist to swap it out?

Yes. You also need to remove the gear.

N8Miller · May 6, 2007

is that the same gear as on the bottom of the dist?

montegoman351 · May 6, 2007

Yes, then pull the retainer collar off that is next in line, yet another roll pin, then slide the whole shaft out. Pull a couple bolts and put the new one on, and don't forget to be liberal with the heat sink grease behind the module (some silicone grease works, too). Reassemble, put the dist in, you DID mark the rotor position before you started, right. Put the dist back in, and let 'er rip.

signs of a bad dist?

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