should my timing be 10 BTDC or 10 ATDC? and before would be to the left of 0 on the balancer and after to the right if looking at like you were timing it, correct? I am so ashamed.
silly question
- Thread starter gtcobra302
- Start date
It's not so obvious which side is which unless you have a balancer that marks which side is which. I switched them around when I replaced the motor in my GT - for SOME reason, the engine didn't run well afterwards. 
Okay well good to know. My buddy didn't have any marks on his balancer so we found top dead center then marked it. Then we went and looked at a stock balancer at auto zone and measured how far the marks were apart and marked his balancer after we found 0. Correct me if I am wrong. My top dead center mark when #1 cylinder is at the top and the rotor is pointed at #1, my mark is at the top of the balancer for 0, is that correct? we timed it to the before side at 10 degrees. According to my marks he was 10 degrees after, so he was 20 degrees out. right?
Finding TDC is really tough without pulling the driver's cylinder head and verifying TDC. I also found that out the hard way. How did you determine TDC?
The distributor base can be rotated to change the timing, so the rotor in the distributor doesn't necessarily point at the #1 cylinder when you're at TDC.
I'm not sure how to tell you how to mark the balancer, perhaps someone else will chime in.
The distributor base can be rotated to change the timing, so the rotor in the distributor doesn't necessarily point at the #1 cylinder when you're at TDC.
I'm not sure how to tell you how to mark the balancer, perhaps someone else will chime in.
Yobi1Kanobi
Member
- Apr 9, 2003
- 559
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if you have the spark plugs out take your finger and put it in #1 when you are in the comp stroke then you can just place it at the center mark on your balancer,
It is a rough estimation of TDC. I did take the spark plug out of number 1 hole an stuck a screw driver in there and turned the motor with a socket and rachet on the balancer. I mentioned the rotor direction because it was not pointed the other way thus being 180 degrees out. anyway I believe it was 20-25 degrees out.
divit250r
Member
Same problem I just had
I just went thru the same ordeal you are. Here is the steps that I did to get it running again ..
1) Pop the dizzy's cap off so you can see the rotor.
2) Pull the SPOUT connector in the fender wall out so you can set the timing and the computer doesnt try to fight you.
3) Pull the #1 spark plug out and stick your finger in the hole
4) Turn the crank with a rachet/socket like you are doing once you feel compression aka air pushing out your finger then you know for sure your on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke.
5) now once you know your in teh compression stroke line your Damper up to *10 Degree's BTDC (which is the right side of 0* on the damper)
6) pull the dizzy up just a little (dont go to far with it just enough to turn the rotor to pointing about 12 o'clock to the upper intake and make sure their is play so you can turn it clock wise more so later you can time the car higher)
7) once you have done this stab the dizzy and align the rotor so that it aligns with the #1 Spark Plug wire.
8) Tighten the dizzy down not to much just enough so it does not pop upwards when you turn the motor over because your going to need to turn it a little to get it right on.
9) Have someone else turn the motor over while you stand their and if it fires right away excellent let the car idle for a little rev it up and check your throttle response if it is really laggy try to turn the dizzy clock wise a hair and rev it up again the throttle should get back to normal
10) once you got it fairly close shut the car off and hook up your timing light give your buddy a high five and time that car to oh about 12* BTDC or higher if you can get away with it without any pinging when driving it (granite you are always going to put 93 octange gas in it if not stick with 10*)
if you cannot still get it to start check your spark plug gapping be sure its around 0.052 if the engine is not super charged, turbo'd ect.
Now get that pony back on the road where it belongs
I just went thru the same ordeal you are. Here is the steps that I did to get it running again ..
1) Pop the dizzy's cap off so you can see the rotor.
2) Pull the SPOUT connector in the fender wall out so you can set the timing and the computer doesnt try to fight you.
3) Pull the #1 spark plug out and stick your finger in the hole
4) Turn the crank with a rachet/socket like you are doing once you feel compression aka air pushing out your finger then you know for sure your on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke.
5) now once you know your in teh compression stroke line your Damper up to *10 Degree's BTDC (which is the right side of 0* on the damper)
6) pull the dizzy up just a little (dont go to far with it just enough to turn the rotor to pointing about 12 o'clock to the upper intake and make sure their is play so you can turn it clock wise more so later you can time the car higher)
7) once you have done this stab the dizzy and align the rotor so that it aligns with the #1 Spark Plug wire.
8) Tighten the dizzy down not to much just enough so it does not pop upwards when you turn the motor over because your going to need to turn it a little to get it right on.
9) Have someone else turn the motor over while you stand their and if it fires right away excellent let the car idle for a little rev it up and check your throttle response if it is really laggy try to turn the dizzy clock wise a hair and rev it up again the throttle should get back to normal
10) once you got it fairly close shut the car off and hook up your timing light give your buddy a high five and time that car to oh about 12* BTDC or higher if you can get away with it without any pinging when driving it (granite you are always going to put 93 octange gas in it if not stick with 10*)
if you cannot still get it to start check your spark plug gapping be sure its around 0.052 if the engine is not super charged, turbo'd ect.
Now get that pony back on the road where it belongs
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