Simple nitrous question

[MustangGT95]

I plan on installing a kit soon. However I do not want to run one of the "mustang" plate systems. Because I may be changing intakes soon and I don't want to worry about the spacer plate being different.

I had planned on getting a EFI kit with a fogger nozzle. And drilling/tapping a hole in the upper intake for it. Or maybe the TB if I can find a place.

Here is my question. Couldn't I run one of the cheap edelbrock carb kits and buy one of their HP nozzles? And have the same basic "efi" kit that NOS sells for 130$ less?

Buddy of mine ran a edelbrock nitrous kit in his c10 for a long time and it worked great so I might try one. They sell the kits for 350$ and are adjustable from 75-125 I believe. Which is the range I am looking for. They sell their HP (up to 60psi) nozzle for 50$. Sounds like a plan to me.

However before I even think about nitrous I will be buying an MSD box that has a window switch, will also run a FP cut-off switch and a WOT switch. With a setup like that I would hope I could safely run nitrous on my stock GT.

Anyone see any flaws in my plans?

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

I plan on installing a kit soon. However I do not want to run one of the "mustang" plate systems. Because I may be changing intakes soon and I don't want to worry about the spacer plate being different.

I had planned on getting a EFI kit with a fogger nozzle. And drilling/tapping a hole in the upper intake for it. Or maybe the TB if I can find a place.

Here is my question. Couldn't I run one of the cheap edelbrock carb kits and buy one of their HP nozzles? And have the same basic "efi" kit that NOS sells for 130$ less?

Buddy of mine ran a edelbrock nitrous kit in his c10 for a long time and it worked great so I might try one. They sell the kits for 350$ and are adjustable from 75-125 I believe. Which is the range I am looking for. They sell their HP (up to 60psi) nozzle for 50$. Sounds like a plan to me.

However before I even think about nitrous I will be buying an MSD box that has a window switch, will also run a FP cut-off switch and a WOT switch. With a setup like that I would hope I could safely run nitrous on my stock GT.

Anyone see any flaws in my plans?

Im on percasets(sp?) right now so its hard for me to focus on what you are saying but ill give it a try.

I was under the impression that all nitrous kits were run of f a WOT switch. Wether it hooks up to the TPS, or to your throttle blade I believe thier is no difference. What is a FP cut off switch and why would you want to cut fuel pressure anyway? In case of a fire or something? A window switch IMO is a MUST, and they retail for like $89. To keep your car safe retard your timing a little and use colder spark plugs. To keep yourself safe buy a vent down tube. If you tapped a hole in the upperintake I feel like you might get uneven distribution of nitrous to each cylinder and thats no good. Whats wrong with tapping it 6inchs in front of the TB like any other dry kit?

 

[gcomfx.com]

Get a used Zex kit, tap into your cold air intake between your T/B and M/A meter and be done with it.

 

[MustangGT95]

A Fuel Pressure cut-off switch will not spray nitrous unless the fuel pressure for the fuel solenoid is there.

I will probably just put it before the throttle body. I planned on getting a CAI anyways and that would give me a better mounting surface than the stock rubber hose.

 

[Swarzkopf]

Yeah dude...there is absolutely no need to drill into your intake manifold or throttle body. LMAO

Take a look at all the kits for sale out there, then hit us back with more specific questions...

 

[Hef5.0weisen]

I have the NOS 5115, haven't used it in 6 yrs, but I'll try to give a run down of how it worked and the parts involved:
Flip the arming switch, 1 noid opens to allow N2) press to block off the fuel return thru an NOS specific diaphragm. As you floor the gas pedal, a microswitch opens the other solenoid and N2O flows. This is assuming the fuel press. is within limits, which is done by a fuel press. switch mounted where the schrader vlv is on the fuel rail. Power comes from a 12v switched source thru a relay. I'm not at home now or I'd scan you a schematic, you could see how it works and piece everything together from there. Really a simple, safe and effective design, I think.
Don't know anything about those carb type kits, but if can control the fuel supply and N20 supply, you could rig up your own....
or just pick up a pre-engineered version.
Good Luck