skipping and wont idle

[jake1990gt]

i just recently built a motor its a 306 with keithh black pistons e cam and trickflow heads and holley upper and lower intake 70mm throttle body but before i had stock heads on it and it ran fine but when i put the trick flow heads on now it wont idle and skips and pops i have replaced just about everything but injectors fuel pressure regulator and mass air please help its driving me nuts thanks

 

[jake2582]

have you checked to make sure the valves arent too tight?

 

[jake1990gt]

i have checked

 

[jake2582]

maybe a vacuum leak? around upper and lower intake, injector o rings, tb, heads and lower?

 

[jake1990gt]

i think it is a fuel problem cause i took the vaccum line off the fuel pressure regulator and it started to run alittle better but still skip but not as bad

 

[jake2582]

when you removed the vaccum line you richened it up and it compensated for the extra air?

agree?

 

[jake1990gt]

ye could be it did richened up

 

[jake1990gt]

but im going to put injectors mass air and regulator and pump do u think i should

 

[ShortThrow50]

Your gonna have to bump your timing a little. Try 16 degrees and then report back.

 

[jake1990gt]

ive tried that and it still does the same thing it is like its starving for gas

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.