Skipping Prob and runnig rough

hey guys first post, but i have been coming here to read for about a month or so now. I really need some help as i have to pass inspection. My car seems to have a skip at idle and from 1000-1500rpm the engine shakes pretty bad, bad enough to vibrate the steering column and other things. I have changed the plug wires and plugs, distibutor cap and rotor button, but those did not help at all, i ran som sea foam thru it to try and clean it up, very litle smoke cam out. most that came out was on the passenger side exhaust leading me to believe there is a prob on the divers side. there dont seem to be any strange noise like bad lifters or any thing, and I checked the plug wires to make sure they werent arcing to anything, could it be the injectors or something? the car is complelty stock, even the plug wires were original
 
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Where did you run the seafoam other than the vacume line (assumed)? If you haven't already, runa can in the gas tank... maybe if your injectors are clogged, perhaps this might help?

Oh and is you check engine light on? If so pull codes, as we have many sensors on our cars that can effect idle. Not much help, but it can be a slow process to track down gremlins.
 
no engine light on, I ran it thru the brake booster line, and put what was left of the can in the gas tank(about 1/3 rd of the can), would it hurt to put 1-2 can in a 1/2 tank of gas and run it , or would that be to strong of a concentration
 
I will check the balancer when I get home later, but yes it seems to only shake during that rpm range, it has a slight skip constantly but when I pass that rpm range in either direction, when accelerating or braking, it shakes at that range, could it possibly be timing?
 
Pull codes, even if the CEL (check engine light) isn't on, then you can still have a stored code. You mentioned smoke only coming from the passenger side pipe. If you still have the factory h-pipe, then your catalytic converters might be clogged (or just one of your driver's side), these can cause driveability issues too. Good luck, let us know what else turns up. :nice:
-Chris
 
even though you checked it id still look at the balancer.. every time mine hit that rpm ranget it would shake everything.. it looked alright to me.. but i changed it and everything was alright
 
Balancer...

Mine has been doing the 1200-1500 rpm thing for a while and jsut started doing it at 2600-3000 within the last couple of drives so I went out and already bought the balancer as good preventative mantence...

well I didn't have time to change the balancer last night but I did check it and the rubber is coming out on mine jsut a little bit for maybe 90' of the total circumference of it.

For $70 it is worth changing jsut so you don't spin a bearing or similar.
 
finally got the codes pulled, but not sure what needs ot be done to correct this one, the only code i found was 314 which says air system inoperative during KOER(bank number 2 with dual heated oxygen sensors) andy idea on what to fix for this? the O2 sensor, smog pump altogether? and I think I will go ahead and replace the balancer as suggested
 
tim95gt said:
finally got the codes pulled, but not sure what needs ot be done to correct this one, the only code i found was 314 which says air system inoperative during KOER(bank number 2 with dual heated oxygen sensors) andy idea on what to fix for this? the O2 sensor, smog pump altogether? and I think I will go ahead and replace the balancer as suggested

Sounds like your smog pump might not be working right. Since you have a stock mid-pipe, your cats are probably clogged up. I really don't know anything you can do to test this though.
 
tim95gt said:
no engine light on, I ran it thru the brake booster line, and put what was left of the can in the gas tank(about 1/3 rd of the can), would it hurt to put 1-2 can in a 1/2 tank of gas and run it , or would that be to strong of a concentration

RUN THE WHOLE DAMN CAN THROUGH, I LOVE THAT STUFF
 
still working on it, got to get a voltmeter to check my o2 sensors, but air pump, bypass valve are both okay, gota check diverter valve when I have a few minutes, if my o2 sensors and diverter valve are okay, then I am kinda lost as what to check next, I will get my timing checked again to make sure it didnt change some how, then I guess it will bo to replacing the cats
 
tim95gt said:
still working on it, got to get a voltmeter to check my o2 sensors, but air pump, bypass valve are both okay, gota check diverter valve when I have a few minutes, if my o2 sensors and diverter valve are okay, then I am kinda lost as what to check next, I will get my timing checked again to make sure it didnt change some how, then I guess it will bo to replacing the cats

http://secure.50resto.com/product1.cfm?SID=1&Product_ID=253&Category_ID=1057

$129 for a brand new o/r h-pipe, you will never have problems with your cats again. :nice: