Progress Thread slow&fast's 2000 GT - Suspension Upgrades

slow&fast said:

Thank you Warhorse for answering my question. Moving forward, I will keep this thread as my go to and hope other will benefit from the questions I have. I been studying the recipe for set up closely.

Question
In the past front suspension youtube video you recommended b and r tubular front control arms with sprung perch but found the poly bushings to fail but the feeling was direct with rigidity. In the 2026 recipe you recommend del a lum bushings into the stock a arms. Considering a 2nd set of ball joints were pressed into the stock a arm( longevity unknown) and the del a lum bushings appear to be a one and done. Needing a new bushing set when u get new a arms. What would u recommend? The money spent is almost the same.

1. 2 new moog control arms with del a lum.bushings installed. $109 x2 =$218 + $183 total $401.
2. B and R control arms. $399
3. Is there are better option you would suggest.

Also, do you use dust covers on your stock/strut to prolong the life of the shocks/struts? I found that the camber plates may prevent shock dust covers.

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If your existing A-arms are in good shape, you can get a set of MOOG replacement ball joints ($30 each). Prices can vary, but it shouldn’t be much more to have the shop press out the old ball joints and press in the new ones when they’re doing the Del-A-Lum bushings.

The BMR A-arms with the custom Delrin bushings have performed well for me over the years. It’s hard for me to recommend the BMR A-arms over the OEM A-arm/Del-A-Lum combo if you plan to use the poly bushings that come with the BMR A-arms. That is solely based on my negative experience with the BMR poly bushings. Other people might have had a positive experience with the BMR poly bushings. For a budget build, I would take the benefits of the forward-offset Del-A-Lum bushings over the benefits of the tubular A-arms with poly bushings.

I do use the OEM dust covers (with poly upper strut mount bases) on my struts with the Steeda 3-bolt C/C plates.

slow&fast said:

I watch a YouTube video from the guy from upr. About 8 min into this video is where my question is from. UPR has a bolt package that uses nylon nuts. They claim not to follow the factory torque spec and just snug the bolt. This allows for movement needed to prevent binding and allows arma to work with the poly bushings. What are your thoughts. This makes sense to me but I question if the nylon nut really does not back out. Is this something people are already doing?

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I have never personally used UPR rear control arms or their bolt kit. I’ve used Steeda rear control arms on 3 cars, and I’ve always followed the instructions to torque the bolts to the factory specs. I’ve never had an issue with bind. I always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when it comes to torque specs.

slow&fast said:

My question is, if using 3 piece poly bushing rear control arms that warhorse suggested. Does adding a bolt kit with nylon nuts and snuggin the bolt create a better outcome? Allowing better movement and control. If 2 piece bushing control arm companies are needing to use this technique to improve handling outcomes.

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The best way I can try to answer your question is to say that since I never had an issue with the control arms being torqued to the factory specs, I don't think there will be a better outcome using the UPR bolt kit and just making the bolts snug.

Its been a few years since I installed my Metco rear control arms,and I just torqued the bolts down and they are fine all these years later.

Moved this to the appropriate forum being its more of a progress thread. As you move on to other things just update the title of the thread to reflect what you are currently working on or towards.