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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Smog Pump delete problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter 91stangy
  • Start date Start date Sep 15, 2009
9

91stangy

Member
Jun 11, 2003
116
0
16
Sep 15, 2009
#1
  • Sep 15, 2009
  • #1
Anyone have any issues with the pulleys not lining up after the install of the ksr billet smog pump delete, it ate a rib off my belt yesterday. Sorry if there is already an answer to this as im at work and need to find the answer today and cant look at the moment. Thanks in advance.
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
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134
Sep 15, 2009
#2
  • Sep 15, 2009
  • #2
take that delete kit off and just run a shorter belt, those kits are usually made with cheap bearings and will be junk in under 10k miles.

The hardest part will be finding a correct belt size, my advice would be to go to the parts store with the car and find the correct size belt there, i always measure the belt size i need, and i rarely get it right on the first shot
 
9

91stangy

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Jun 11, 2003
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Sep 15, 2009
#3
  • Sep 15, 2009
  • #3
How would that work on a vortech application, i think there has to be something there in order to be tensioned at all. I already had issues finding the correct belt size to fit on the current setup for some unknown reason.
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
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134
Sep 15, 2009
#4
  • Sep 15, 2009
  • #4
I dunno about the vortech but my novi 2000 didnt require me to run the pulley
 
9

91stangy

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Jun 11, 2003
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Sep 15, 2009
#5
  • Sep 15, 2009
  • #5
anyone know if i can run the vortech blowers without the smog and what size belt it should be around?
 
9

91stangy

Member
Jun 11, 2003
116
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Sep 16, 2009
#6
  • Sep 16, 2009
  • #6
I take that as a no?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,265
17,952
224
Massachusetts
Sep 16, 2009
#7
  • Sep 16, 2009
  • #7
With a vortech blower you need the smog pulley in place as the belt is required to run that way.

I couldn't tell you which is the best delete to run however. I removed my pump and just rerouted the belt. No delete pulley needed for me since i'm N/A.

BTW, this is how you'd reroute the belt if you were N/A so you wouldnt need a pulley
 
9

91stangy

Member
Jun 11, 2003
116
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Sep 21, 2009
#8
  • Sep 21, 2009
  • #8
Yeah definitely didnt think it was possible to run no smog pulley with a vortech, so i guess my question still applies... Does anyone know how to space this pulley out so it lines up correctly and doesnt eat anymore belts?
 
9

91stangy

Member
Jun 11, 2003
116
0
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Sep 21, 2009
#9
  • Sep 21, 2009
  • #9
i dont believe that no one else has had the same issue.
 
D

Deleted member 87397

Sep 22, 2009
#10
  • Sep 22, 2009
  • #10
Get a Ford or March delete kit.
 
B

bigloser

New Member
May 17, 2007
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0
Dec 30, 2009
#11
  • Dec 30, 2009
  • #11
bearing life will suffer by smog pump removal/bypass with shorter belt!

One important factor that people don't consider when bypassing their smog pump is that water pump and alternator bearings will go out quicker! The reason is that the more pulleys you have the longer your bearings will last (a stock 5.0 has seven pulleys/bearings. The more pulleys you have, the more the radial loading is reduced on each individual pulley. This fact is just simple automotive engineering! If you want your water pump and alternator bearings to last when you remove your smog pump, install a smog pump delete idler pulley! The company I work with manufactures a P/S and A/C delete kit for 5.0 engines that utilizes a idler pulley that mounts in the P/S bracket. They seem to do an excellent job.
 

capri debris

Member
May 5, 2007
289
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18
PA
Dec 30, 2009
#12
  • Dec 30, 2009
  • #12
bigloser said:
One important factor that people don't consider when bypassing their smog pump is that water pump and alternator bearings will go out quicker! The reason is that the more pulleys you have the longer your bearings will last (a stock 5.0 has seven pulleys/bearings. The more pulleys you have, the more the radial loading is reduced on each individual pulley. This fact is just simple automotive engineering! If you want your water pump and alternator bearings to last when you remove your smog pump, install a smog pump delete idler pulley! The company I work with manufactures a P/S and A/C delete kit for 5.0 engines that utilizes a idler pulley that mounts in the P/S bracket. They seem to do an excellent job.
Click to expand...

I don't agree. All cars built before serpentine belts came on the scene had only one accessory per belt and they didn't have any problem with premature bearing failure. Besides, the only force each accessory sees is the amount of tension from the tensioner. Removing an accessory won't magically cause the others to have more lateral force applied to them. Simple automotive engineering... no... just simple physics.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,265
17,952
224
Massachusetts
Dec 30, 2009
#13
  • Dec 30, 2009
  • #13
bigloser said:
One important factor that people don't consider when bypassing their smog pump is that water pump and alternator bearings will go out quicker! The reason is that the more pulleys you have the longer your bearings will last (a stock 5.0 has seven pulleys/bearings. The more pulleys you have, the more the radial loading is reduced on each individual pulley. This fact is just simple automotive engineering! If you want your water pump and alternator bearings to last when you remove your smog pump, install a smog pump delete idler pulley! The company I work with manufactures a P/S and A/C delete kit for 5.0 engines that utilizes a idler pulley that mounts in the P/S bracket. They seem to do an excellent job.
Click to expand...


I disagree. Belt wrap isn't going to do much to change the amount of load on each pulley. Plenty of vehicles run multiple belts with less pulleys than the 5.0 runs with the smog and a/c deleted. Some run crank + accessory only...even today. I've had my smog pump and a/c gone for 8 years...still running the same alt and WP as i had before then. If your tensioner is in proper working condition, shouldn't be a prob considering it's 1 less pulley than a non-A/C 5.0 would have normally.
 
B

bigloser

New Member
May 17, 2007
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Jan 5, 2010
#14
  • Jan 5, 2010
  • #14
radial bearing loading is different when in dynamic state

An NTN bearing engineer who's company makes pulley bearings for the automotive industry has told me......
1. when an engine is in static state (not running) the bearing radial load is distributed evenly over the seven pulleys! This load is determined by the belt tensioner pressure applied to the serpentine belt.
2. when in a dynamic or "running state" there is suddenly a pulling side and a slack side to the drive pulley (harmonic balancer). What actually happens is that the individual load on each pulley is now shifted somewhat (no longer evenly distributed as in static state). The P/S and A/C pulleys because they are immediately on the pulling side of the drive pulley (harmonic balancer), will now have a greater loading than when they were in a static state! The pulleys close to the slack side such as W/P and S/P will have less of a loading when in dynamic state! This fact is why you should keep your W/P pulley on the slack side of the drive pulley (as the factory belt routing dictates). I have seen belt routing with W/P pulley immediately on pull side of drive pulley which puts greater radial loading on W/P bearings (especially at high RPMs). By installing a S/P delete pulley you can keep W/P pulley immediately on slack side of drive pulley and W/P bearings will last longer!!! key buzz words are..... "bearing radial load shifing when going from static to dynamic state"!
 
8

86ponyGT

New Member
Jan 6, 2010
2
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0
Weare, NH
Jan 6, 2010
#15
  • Jan 6, 2010
  • #15
I have a upr delete kit and had no issues
 

FourEyed

Active Member
Jan 9, 2011
93
44
39
Dec 10, 2014
#16
  • Dec 10, 2014
  • #16
bigloser said:
radial bearing loading is different when in dynamic state

An NTN bearing engineer who's company makes pulley bearings for the automotive industry has told me......
1. when an engine is in static state (not running) the bearing radial load is distributed evenly over the seven pulleys! This load is determined by the belt tensioner pressure applied to the serpentine belt.
2. when in a dynamic or "running state" there is suddenly a pulling side and a slack side to the drive pulley (harmonic balancer). What actually happens is that the individual load on each pulley is now shifted somewhat (no longer evenly distributed as in static state). The P/S and A/C pulleys because they are immediately on the pulling side of the drive pulley (harmonic balancer), will now have a greater loading than when they were in a static state! The pulleys close to the slack side such as W/P and S/P will have less of a loading when in dynamic state! This fact is why you should keep your W/P pulley on the slack side of the drive pulley (as the factory belt routing dictates). I have seen belt routing with W/P pulley immediately on pull side of drive pulley which puts greater radial loading on W/P bearings (especially at high RPMs). By installing a S/P delete pulley you can keep W/P pulley immediately on slack side of drive pulley and W/P bearings will last longer!!! key buzz words are..... "bearing radial load shifing when going from static to dynamic state"!
Click to expand...


This was definitely an interesting read..Thank you.
I know is an older thread, but nevertheless.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
8,859
214
In the garage
Dec 10, 2014
#17
  • Dec 10, 2014
  • #17
And I've been running a short belt for years on many mustangs with no adverse impact. The smog pulleys are prone to breaking. It is a necessary evil with a Vortech kit.
 
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