well i bought it and got the 5.0 FHP car deliverd today so this well be my new home forum. i am selling the 2.3 to a kid at school on monday. so it will be 5.0 talk for me now on (wow i just relized i have two mustangs at just 16 thats rather cool) but alright ive got a question my smog pump is making racket so i was going to change it but then i figured out that the smog eliminator is only 19.99 so the question is will it throw any codes or will is it a hard install any help will be great thanks
smog pump eliminator
- Thread starter blastit116
- Start date
Funanin
Founding Member
ok, what u probably saw was the A/C eliminator kit, that is 20 bucks. The smog pump delete kit is more like $75.
They way you would install is, i think its only 2 bolts. 1 for top and 1 for bottom, rather easy install. But you have to cut disconnect or cut the exhaust line that goes to the back of the heads and block it off with some sort of valve. I went to home depot and got high temp hose that would fit over the existing pipe that i cut and hose clamped it on, then put a cap on it. Seems to work good. Do the same thing for your H pipe under the car, but do it AT the H pipe, not up at the motor, otherwise the smog pipe will dangle and make noise when u are driving. So take it out. Only problem with smog pump delete is u might not pass emission depending on where u live. Technically it can pass the sniffer test without it, but if they put it up on a lift and see its gone, they might not pass it.
They way you would install is, i think its only 2 bolts. 1 for top and 1 for bottom, rather easy install. But you have to cut disconnect or cut the exhaust line that goes to the back of the heads and block it off with some sort of valve. I went to home depot and got high temp hose that would fit over the existing pipe that i cut and hose clamped it on, then put a cap on it. Seems to work good. Do the same thing for your H pipe under the car, but do it AT the H pipe, not up at the motor, otherwise the smog pipe will dangle and make noise when u are driving. So take it out. Only problem with smog pump delete is u might not pass emission depending on where u live. Technically it can pass the sniffer test without it, but if they put it up on a lift and see its gone, they might not pass it.
Funanin
Founding Member
yea but most people get rid of the pump because of the front end weight. The eliminator kit is a piece of aluminum with a plastic pulley that weights about 1 lb. The stock pump weights about 9 lbs.
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
What jb said.
These delete kits with a dummy pulley are stupid. Why pay $50 for a pulley that clutters the enginebay, still has some drag on it just by being there and doesnt do anything. Just get a shorter belt and remove everything for the same $50. Go to napa auto parts: they will let you walk in and out trying belts until you find the right one.
The A/c delete kit is different as it moves the ps pump up where the ac compressor used to be and adds a reinforcement plate.
Stick a bolt of the same diameter as the exhuast pipe into the air tube's reciever tube. Pull it back out, cover it with rtv then stick it back in. This way, if you need to reverse this, you just put a wrench and turn the bolt to break the rtv seal and pull it out. for the crossover behind the heads, stick 2 more bolts into the back of the heads where the crossovers pumped the air.
These delete kits with a dummy pulley are stupid. Why pay $50 for a pulley that clutters the enginebay, still has some drag on it just by being there and doesnt do anything. Just get a shorter belt and remove everything for the same $50. Go to napa auto parts: they will let you walk in and out trying belts until you find the right one.
The A/c delete kit is different as it moves the ps pump up where the ac compressor used to be and adds a reinforcement plate.
Stick a bolt of the same diameter as the exhuast pipe into the air tube's reciever tube. Pull it back out, cover it with rtv then stick it back in. This way, if you need to reverse this, you just put a wrench and turn the bolt to break the rtv seal and pull it out. for the crossover behind the heads, stick 2 more bolts into the back of the heads where the crossovers pumped the air.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Remove the pump, and if the car has a/c and p/s you'll need a belt in the 83" to 84.5" range. Buy 3 with an inch either side 84", and take back the 2 that don't work. If you remove the crossover pipe, you can buy two small bolts at the hardware store to thread into the back of the heads to plug the exhaust port; alternatively, you can cut the ends of the crossover pipe off with a hacksaw, invert them and bolt them back on. That will block off the exhaust port too.
04sleeper
Founding Member
Michael Yount said:
Or you could run a string or peice of wire around your pulleys and measure the length and get it right the first time.
83 to 84.5" will be for a stock crank pulley, 81.5 for a 4 inch, and 78.5 for a 3 inch race pulley.
Sometimes when you remove the crossover pipe the threads are clogged with carbon buildup and can be hard to thread. If you remove the big metal valve on the crossover pipe then you can just go to Home Depot and get a 3/4" brass "Garden Hose" block off and screw it on where the valve was. They are around $.78.
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