My 94GT runs like crap, feels like it rides on 7 cylinders. I'm getting a check engine light and the only codes I get are 37 and 73 (running rich). I've looked the engine over and can't find any water/oil leaks or vacuum leaks. When I checked the oil I had micro bubbles in it, but no discoloring from coolant, and I found no oil mixing with the coolant. I had let the car idle for 5 minutes and smelled something buring. I checked the oil dipstick, this is when I noticed a slight smoke fume flowing out the dipstick hole. What do you make of it?
Smoke flowing out dipstick hole, need help....
- Thread starter Yung Than
- Start date
94GTStang
Founding Member
uhhh......... I have no clue, but to keep the thread going:
What oil are you running and when when was the last time you changed it?
What oil are you running and when when was the last time you changed it?
Rootus
Officially Addicted
The smoke could be caused by blow-by. But you could have quite a lot of that without it running like crap. Have you checked all the standard stuff first? Replace cap/rotor/plugs/wires, clean MAF & IAC, etc. How many miles are on the motor? Original O2 sensors?
Dave
Dave
ljinx23
New Member
I had this prob. too. did compression test, and it turned out bad 
i think 170 should be in every cylinder, mine ranged from 130 all the way to 50. 
It was bad. i wish i could help ya, on this one, mine blows oil out the stick like there's no tomorrow. lol. runs real bad too. i went from 14.7s to 16.2s in the qtr. it's disheartening, but all that means is run it till it dies, and in the meantime save up for that stroker we all want. 
I tried egr, plugs wires, and cap, and got a new dipstick incase the seal was bad. all i can think is maybe a burnt valve, or something with the valvetrain. 
if u hear anything let me know. good luck
i think 170 should be in every cylinder, mine ranged from 130 all the way to 50. It was bad. i wish i could help ya, on this one, mine blows oil out the stick like there's no tomorrow. lol. runs real bad too. i went from 14.7s to 16.2s in the qtr. it's disheartening, but all that means is run it till it dies, and in the meantime save up for that stroker we all want. I tried egr, plugs wires, and cap, and got a new dipstick incase the seal was bad. all i can think is maybe a burnt valve, or something with the valvetrain. if u hear anything let me know. good luckHairyCanary said:
All the basic stuff has been changed within the past 15,000 miles, the car currently boasts 150,300 miles. My problem started after I had the "PIP module" aka "halls effect sensor" in the distributor replaced. The engine had been cutting off while driving and at stops. The day I went to have the PIP module replaced the car drove fine, but when I went to pick up the car a week later I had to tow it home because it started running like crap. The mechanics couldn't figure it out, they came up with codes 37 and 73 and couldn't figure out what had caused it.
Also, would blow-by smell like something burning while driving on the street?
ljinx23 said:I had this prob. too. did compression test, and it turned out bad
I'm hoping it's in the heads so I can get some aftermarket aluminums. It would suck if the block was failing because I'm not ready for a $troker.
ljinx23
New Member
well, either way, i think it's gonna cost us both some serious cash. i'm plannin on tearin the motor down this winter, so maybe if i'm lucky i'll find something. I think though if it was in the bottom end, like rings or something it would smoke out the tailpipes. i just get the smoke out the stick. and yes i smell it when i'm drivin too.
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter 
Well, to start, the codes you stated are wrong. Our car has 3 digit codes ONLY! I will provide a link at the bottom of my post so you can run your own codes and see what codes you are getting. It might be a good start.
BTW, I would try a new halls effect sensor. Even brand new parts can be bad. It's a little to coincendental that the car started running like crap 1 week after that. It might be fine, but it's a start.
But run the codes first before you spend any money. Post back so we can help.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/445.shtml
Scott
BTW, I would try a new halls effect sensor. Even brand new parts can be bad. It's a little to coincendental that the car started running like crap 1 week after that. It might be fine, but it's a start.
But run the codes first before you spend any money. Post back so we can help.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/445.shtml
Scott
The PIP code can pop intermittently if there are problems elsewhere in your ignition system (prior to the distributor). For example, a two-step coil (like yours) going bad on only one step, or a TFI module going bad (highly suspect considering their failure rates and associated recall) may well cause a PIP code to show. In order to rule them out, a $20.00 coil and/or $50.00 TFI module may be worth the investment. Those problems don't really account for a smoke/fumes problem, though. When was the last time you swapped out your PVC valve? I had similar problems with my EFI 5.8 Bronco and it turned out that replacing the PVC valve cured the "blow-by" problem and that a new coil made her run like a champ again. Good luck. Let me know what luck.
Rootus
Officially Addicted
Smoke out of the top end (dipstick & oil fill tube) is actually a typical symptom of blow-by, which is the bottom end (rings). Sorry.ljinx23 said:
I agree entirely. I do not believe in coincidences.mo_dingo said:
Good luck!
Dave
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter
HairyCanary said:
Aww man....that sucks hardcore. But run the codes and see what you get.
You should try to borrow a compression tester. That should tell you if you are leaking compression (i.e. bad rings).
Scott
Similar threads
