Progress Thread Snow - 93 GT Vert. My first Ford, Mustang, convertible, ...

JAA

5 Year Member
Oct 2, 2018
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Central MA
Hi everyone, new guy here from outside of Boston, MA. Been reading in the background here for a while, but I have now taken delivery of my first Ford named Snow via my dad and Orlando, FL.

Im pretty sure this thread is useless without pics, so lets get those out of the way. These were taken when my dad arrived, with the initial work being needed was a good vacuum.

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With the pictures out of the way, let me now say that I am a wannabe amateur when it comes to working on cars. Since ive been reading here ive learned a lot, watched way to much YouTube and as well have so much go over my head. I mention all this because im going to have a million questions. Id like to apologize now for how beginner those questions will be. Ive never done any real work to cars before. However, im committed to this restomod and getting some quality lessons, pictures, and mistakes along the way.

Goal - Fun and spirited weekend cruiser

My running lists ...

Known issues
Codes - 94 44 18, No smog pump or cats?

Work to do
Alternator upgrade
Electrical fan upgrade
Led lights around including dash
Power seats
Power top boot rear cinch
Ac/heat knob
Radio
Power door locks
Adjust hood cable

Boot cover plastic clips rear
Tighten all speaker panels
Power driver window slow slow when car not started

Parts to acquire:
SFC's
3G alternator
Electric fan
Disc rear
Door panel plastic clips
Driver side door panel screws

? Driver and passenger side door male and female power harness
Driver and passenger power door lock actuators

Thanks in advance!
 
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Code 18 is a SPOUT issue, whch refers to the wiring going to the distributor.

See post #6 here for more info on troubleshooting
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/help-code-18.896093/#post-9031071

As for the other codes, the code 94/44 is common when the air pump is deleted. Being a fellow Masshole, you'll probably have to at least put cats on the car to get it to pass the state inspection. They won't look under the hood, but every since the camera system went into place last fall, they've been stricter on cars and what they have on them. If you have a buddy...he still might be willing to overlook it.



Welcome BTW. nice looking car.
 
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I dont think these actuators are in good shape
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Also not a fan of the removal of the harnesses here
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Whats the typical play here? If it aint broke dont fix it? Retro in harnesses? Thoughts?

I was targeting LMR as they have a package for both sets. For the actuators, is there a preferred re-seller?
 
I For the actuators, is there a preferred re-seller?

From what I've read, there's really only one vendor for the actuators which are made in China, and they aren't that good.

I installed one from LMR, and it was weak. It would only actuate when the car was running, and with the car off it just didn't have enough power. Ended up finding an NOS one on Ebay and installing that one instead.
 
I used the Dorman replacements on my Mercury since NOS replacements were non-existent. They're plenty strong and have held up for a year and a half now. I drive it daily.
 
Thanks all. The NOS parts on ebay look to be twice the price and their rubber doesnt look all that nice.

The Dorman from Autozone is like $70 per, even more than twice as much as the LMR.

I dont want to get one thats a piece of crap. Does that mean im spending $140 for Dorman door lock actuators?
 
Sadly, door lock actuators are a thing you really need to spend money on.... unless you build your own. @ jrichker has a write up about using a completely different assembly to get even better results inexpensively. I searched for the info... but I'm not exactly computer savvy.
 
think this is a Stangnet resource, but if it isn't here' the link

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems

You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://get.adobe.com/reader/

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/door-lock-actuator-fix-pdf.88290/

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $8. Fix one side for $20, do both sides for only $28. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

By the way, I am still using the same $4 actuators I bought in 2002 and this is the second Mustang I have installed them in! Beat that with your fancy replacements!
thanks to jrichker for this cheap fix, and yes it is on the list of 'to dos' for the exxon valdez.
I don't know why this does not show up in the resources page. I'll try to figure it out later.
 
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think this is a Stangnet resource, but if it isn't here' the link

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems

You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://get.adobe.com/reader/

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/door-lock-actuator-fix-pdf.88290/

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $8. Fix one side for $20, do both sides for only $28. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

By the way, I am still using the same $4 actuators I bought in 2002 and this is the second Mustang I have installed them in! Beat that with your fancy replacements!
thanks to jrichker for this cheap fix, and yes it is on the list of 'to dos' for the exxon valdez.
I don't know why this does not show up in the resources page. I'll try to figure it out later.
I went through the PDF thanks.

I don’t think I would have an issue with the fabrication, that seems straight forward.

However, I have the plastic brackets for the acuator. If I have the install right, I would need to drill out the door rivets and use a bolt instead. That feels a bit harsh, right?

Has anyone drilled out the door rivets per the PDF? How did it turn out? Any regrets?
 
I have not used bolts/nuts on mine, I drilled out the rivets and put in new rivets, yes you do have to use a big assed rivet gun. The actuators I used were from lmr and froze up within a year, I have the stuff to fix them just have not done it yet.
 
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I hemmed and hawd about the actuators and decided to purchase the $50 kit from LMR, this is why.

The temperature control knob is stuck in the COLD position. Read the forum here, went through my BISHKO PDF Service Manual and started diagnosing. BEst guess is the cable is rusted, no good, and needs replacement. Its winter months starting so I wont be driving much in the coming months, so I figured it would be fun to get the console out for the first time.

First step is to remove HVAC and check upstream cable
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Examined the cable for kinks or other issues and couldn't find any. Still frozen and not moving.

OK, time to take the console out
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Im about half way before the family called me for dinner. Ill hopefully get to the rest tonight.

So thats why I ordered the LMR actuators.

Wait ... what I mean is the temperature control cable from LMR is like $25. LMR requires min $50 for free shipping. I looked at a lot of things which could bring me up to the price. I considered LED lighting, under pulleys, a single acutator, SBC, sway bars, etc. I ended up going with the $50 kit as I get 2 actuators ($25/ea) and the $11 silly plastic clips. I already have the tool, but Im sure that will come in handy some day.

In the end I prolly saved $5 or so for the shipping. Meaning, I paid ~$45 for the actuator kit. For that price I dont need to explore drilling out my doors or ~$70/ea for the dorman actuators.