So close it hurts

So I thought I would post another build update. This thing has been consuming my life. I walked outside and it was snowing. I started asking myself how long I was in the garage for. I can my life being split into pre and post mustang build. lol. Anyway here are some pics.


So this is what I had the car stripped down too as a recap. This was about 2009-08-15.
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Here are a couple pictures showing the difference between the stock and aftermarket rear sway bars. I have known a few autocross guys who broke theirs. They tend to break on driver side right at the pinch point.
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Here is a picture through the hole in my trunk to see it. I just cut this out because I am making it flat and countersinking my cell flush with this.
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When I was taching in my cage I used my highly accurate seat mounting template as you can see.
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I think the cage turned out not bad. I am having my friend tig it all which hasn't happened yet but you get the idea. My goal was to keep the cage as unoticable as possible to people driving next to me. I kept the roll bar close to the a pillar and my rear braces go to my other node. I think it looks good.
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My stock strut brace would not fit so I was going to build my own but I found one that fit and I think it would be more expensive to build my own. Some pics of the stock one not fitting and the new one fitting....and one of me fitting in the engine bay. So much room! I think I will run some brake ducting.
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I am to the point now where I can start wiring this thing. I built a huge wiring diagram which makes this task less intimidating. So this is my VipecV44 placement.
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This is the car as of 2009-10-28. It is starting to really look like a car again! Hood open and hood closed.
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Looks great. I really like that rollbar, but I can't read the sticker on it. Who makes that one?

Kurt

Competition engineering but I changed the way it was supposed to be built. So it isn't NHRA rated anymore. Shouldn't be a problem. It is a street monster more than anything. I used the door bars to the back and used the bend around to the trunk and the rear ones for the door. It is supposed to be to the top of the main roll hoop but I put it all to one node to be a bit more of a sleeper look and theoritically one node is stiffer.