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So the journey begins

  • Thread starter Thread starter BigTsDad
  • Start date Start date Aug 23, 2020
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BigTsDad

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Aug 19, 2020
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NE Wisconsin
Aug 23, 2020
#1
  • Aug 23, 2020
  • #1
We're going to spend the day organizing the garage and digging through our pile of parts and organizing them and try to identify what we can. In the meantime I figured it would be a good idea to post up some pics so you all could have a look. Rather than ask a bunch of annoying questions right off the bat I was hoping I could get some opinions, concerns, or whatever from people who know their stuff. Although I would consider myself reasonably intelligent about cars and mechanically inclined there are certainly things I see here that I'm not sure about. Don't worry , I'm not expecting anyone to give me step by step instructions on how to assemble a car. What I'm hoping for is for the people here to stop me if I start going off in the wrong direction. It's what you don't know you don't know that'll get you after all. Like I said in my Welcome Wagon post, this is how we bought the car so we don't have the benefit of being the ones who took it apart.

Oh, I did manage to figure out the drivers side door latch but other than having a valve stem replaced that's all we've done. It's been here less than a week so it's a start I guess.

Here you go.
 
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BigTsDad

Member
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NE Wisconsin
Aug 23, 2020
#2
  • Aug 23, 2020
  • #2
Couple more...
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#3
  • Aug 23, 2020
  • #3
Easy peasy, just like a wal mart book shelf, tab A goes into slot A.
Nice looking start for you and the kid
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
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#4
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  • #4
Awesome looking car! I like that the 5 lug swap is already done. Those rims are awesome too! Don't sell them (unless you sell them to me)

Chris
 
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BigTsDad

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NE Wisconsin
Aug 23, 2020
#5
  • Aug 23, 2020
  • #5
General karthief said:
Easy peasy, just like a wal mart book shelf, tab A goes into slot A.
Nice looking start for you and the kid
Click to expand...

Uh oh... Never had good luck with that Wal Mart stuff!
 
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Ryuk

I love your drawers
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#6
  • Aug 23, 2020
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In addition to that door latch and valve stem, you're going to need an interior and drivetrain.

You're welcome, happy to help.
 
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BigTsDad

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#7
  • Aug 23, 2020
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Mstng93SSP said:
Awesome looking car! I like that the 5 lug swap is already done. Those rims are awesome too! Don't sell them (unless you sell them to me)

Chris
Click to expand...

Thanks. The boy has been sitting in the garage staring at it for days, lol.

I think the wheels are gonna stay where they are. We like em too.
 
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BigTsDad

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#8
  • Aug 23, 2020
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JD08 said:
In addition to that door latch and valve stem, you're going to need an interior and drivetrain.

You're welcome, happy to help.
Click to expand...

See? I knew I was in the right place!
 
Reactions: kiddiccarus, Ryuk and General karthief

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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#9
  • Aug 23, 2020
  • #9
Are those jacking rails? Might as well get subframe connectors welded in now before there is any interior to worry about getting hot from welding. I had a set (with the seat supports) welded in with A 10lb bag of ice on the carpet, but that was before the civilian WWW and groups like this to tell us better.
 

mikestang63

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#10
  • Aug 23, 2020
  • #10
super clean car

1st mod subframe connectors
 
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BigTsDad

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#11
  • Aug 23, 2020
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Thanks guys.

I do have subframe connectors that came with the car as well as torque box reinforcements. My short term plan at this point is:

1. Get the doors functioning... I'm not loving them wired to the cage.

2. Get the suspension buttoned down. It's just kind of attached but nothing has been tightened down.

3. Get brakes in it.

4. Get steering in it.

After those things are done then I feel like it would be a good time to get the subframe connectors welded in. Before wiring and interior.

A few questions though.

The torque box reinforcements seem to be a bolt in job although I have seen them get welded as well. Any thoughts?

As far as brakes go since I'd like to go with the Cobra brakes I have been using the 1995 Cobra as the basis of my research. Is it safe to assume that my spindles will accept these or should I try to figure out exactly where these spindles came from?

Finally I need to get a steering rack. Is it a bad idea to pick up a remanufactured stock one for a 93?
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
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#12
  • Aug 23, 2020
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I'm not sure I would weld in subframe connectors without the car sitting at full weight without the drivetrain/interior etc. I'm sure there are others with more insight into this but it seems with the suspension not having the weight on it and welding in the frame connectors could possibly cause issues. Anyone?

Chris
 

Steel1

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#13
  • Aug 23, 2020
  • #13
Some people prefer to weld in the torque box reinforcements, but many are bolted in.
Mine have been bolted in for 15yrs. , torque boxes are fine, although I'm not launching my car.

Brakes....The Ultimate 4-lug/5-lug Brake Conversion/upgrade Thread

If you're replacing the rack you should upgrade to an SN95 rack, improved feel and radius.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#14
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And don't tighten the control arms until you have full weight on the suspension.
 
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nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
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She's a keeper alright,good luck.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#16
  • Aug 24, 2020
  • #16
I’m guessing that you intend to drag race the car then?
 

91TwighlightGT

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#17
  • Aug 24, 2020
  • #17
Full weight doesn’t matter for the subframe connectors, but I agree with having the suspension installed and right before doing them. Other than that just make sure the car is straight and level when welding them in place.
 
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BigTsDad

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Aug 19, 2020
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Aug 24, 2020
#18
  • Aug 24, 2020
  • #18
Thanks everyone for your help. I'm already seeing things I wouldn't have thought of.

Steel1 said:
Some people prefer to weld in the torque box reinforcements, but many are bolted in.
Mine have been bolted in for 15yrs. , torque boxes are fine, although I'm not launching my car.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. We're not building anything extreme so bolting them in should work for us as well.

Steel1 said:
If you're replacing the rack you should upgrade to an SN95 rack, improved feel and radius.
Click to expand...

Did a little reading on this. Sounds like a no brainer. The article I read linked to a hybrid steering shaft from Maximum Motorsports, that's a spendy one. I do recall running across a steering shaft in my stockpile. Maybe I'll get lucky and the previous owner had the same idea.

General karthief said:
And don't tighten the control arms until you have full weight on the suspension.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks for catching it.

CarMichael Angelo said:
I’m guessing that you intend to drag race the car then?
Click to expand...

We're not building a drag car specifically. The plan is to get it back on the street. It's pretty clear the previous owner was building it for the drag strip though. We'd like to keep what's been done already since it looks like all good stuff. Not so sure about that drag launch kit that's under it. I haven't found anything that says a setup like that is safe for the street. Those front springs seem awfully stiff to me. I'm not sure if that changes when there's some weight in there.

91TwighlightGT said:
Full weight doesn’t matter for the subframe connectors, but I agree with having the suspension installed and right before doing them. Other than that just make sure the car is straight and level when welding them in place.
Click to expand...

We'll just hold off on those for a bit then. Thanks
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#19
  • Aug 24, 2020
  • #19
BigTsDad said:
Thanks everyone for your help. I'm already seeing things I wouldn't have thought of.



Sounds good. We're not building anything extreme so bolting them in should work for us as well.



Did a little reading on this. Sounds like a no brainer. The article I read linked to a hybrid steering shaft from Maximum Motorsports, that's a spendy one. I do recall running across a steering shaft in my stockpile. Maybe I'll get lucky and the previous owner had the same idea.



Wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks for catching it.



We're not building a drag car specifically. The plan is to get it back on the street. It's pretty clear the previous owner was building it for the drag strip though. We'd like to keep what's been done already since it looks like all good stuff. Not so sure about that drag launch kit that's under it. I haven't found anything that says a setup like that is safe for the street. Those front springs seem awfully stiff to me. I'm not sure if that changes when there's some weight in there.



We'll just hold off on those for a bit then. Thanks
Click to expand...

The lack of hood hinges, the missing heater plenum, the “ way too far inboard” bolted in 6 pt roll bar, zero insulation and sound deadened will just be a few of the things that will make this car a pain in the ass on the street. Add in 90/10 front struts, and 50/50 rear shocks, and you’ll have to pay more frequent visits to your dentist as a result of getting the fillings jarred out of your head from the ride quality.

That car looks to be amazingly clean, and nicely painted. It’d be a shame to lose such a nice starting point for a great street car to end up as another example of a gutted out rattle trap pretending to be a street car that is just a literal headache to ride in.

Get rid of the drag racing junk, ditch the lift off hood. get a good aftermarket electrical system ( these cars need it anyway). fix the stuff that has been Removed ( hinges, heater core/AC) restore the door mechanisms, put some sound deadener in it, and the interior.
 
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Potomus Pete

I'm still waiting for the fully nude shots
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#20
  • Aug 24, 2020
  • #20
He is right especially if you have kids. Not only the kids , but your wife will never get in it . Plus if you fix it right you might get all your money back someday.
 
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